DIY high temp printer build

  • Hi everyone, just wanted to introduce the project that I am working on, a DIY high temperature 3d printer. I have been working on it for a couple of months now, and the design is almost finished. It features all high quality parts from dyzedesign, Bosch Rexroth, Duet3d, alphacool and many others!

    The finished design will have a build volume of 240x240x275mm, 500c watercooled hotend, 200c capable bed, heated build chamber and filament chamber.
    For the heated chamber I will be using 3 200 watt ptc heaters with a fan slowly blowing hot air in the chamber, with this I hope to be able to reach a chamber temp of around 100-120c. The render below is an indication of the design, there have already been some changes to it 🙂

    Now it is just waiting on the last parts to start the construction, the frame is already standing as can be see. I am also working on a website for this project, so that should be up and running in the next couple of weeks!

    Will keep this post updated on any further process made!


  • will you also watercool the stepper motors?

  • @Veti No, the entire motion system is outside the build chamber (using high quility kevlar bellows for the XY motion). So there is no need for it, the hotend and extruder however are water cooled!

  • Hi,

    What materials or speeds, you want to print?


    500 it's near fusion temperarure of aluminium... And of course plastic protection of wires...

  • @peirof

    Planning on printing the high temp stuff, PEEK, PEKK, PPSU etc.
    Will print at slow speeds, 30-40 mm/s probaly, just have to do some test to find the optimal!

    Yes 500c is a really high temp, but that is just what the hotend is capable of (dyze end pro). Won't run it near that temeprature so no worries!

  • Moderator

    looks bomb proof

  • @Phaedrux It sure is! using 3030 aluminium profiles with 2 mm aluminium and stainless plates on all sides. Should weigh around 80 kg ☺

  • What are the walls made off and how is it insulated ?
    How will you cool the extruder motor? Is there a special heat sink that can be bolted to the motor or will you be home brewing it ?

  • @jens55 The inside wall of the build chamber is made of stainless steel (2mm) then there is a 30mm layer of rockwool followed up by a outer layer of 2 mm aluminium. So there is hopefully not a hole lot of heat losses.
    Both the hotend and extruder are watercooled with the cooling blocks from dyze 🙂

  • Wow, that thing will indeed be heavy!
    Thanks for the Dyze pointer. I will look at their cooling solutions.

  • @jens55 Jup, heavy it wil be 🤣 around 80kg according to SolidWorks...
    No probs, the cooling blocks seem well engineered. Can't wait to try it out, when all the other parts are here. (still waiting on all the sheet metal parts and some electronics)

  • @Rik-Snelder, are you having the sheet metal parts custom made ?
    Looked at the cooling blocks, they seem well made. How will you attach them to the stepper motor? Will you pull the existing screws that hold the motor together and replace them with longer screws to sandwich the cooling block in? I have always heard that it is a no-no to take a stepper apart as it can severely affect the permanent magnets and pulling all screws will allow the rotor to touch the magnets. Maybe that is ok unless you actually pull the rotor out ?

  • @jens55 Yes, they will be lasercut and bend by a local company!
    There is guide on the Dyze Design website about installing them ( it is just attached to the outside of the motor, so no need to take it apart 🙂

  • Cool (pun intended) 🙂

  • Awesome work, one day I wish to build a machine similar to this. What style of motion system have you selected for this printer?

  • @kstra It uses the CoreXY motion system from e3d 🙂 unfortunately still waiting for some parts so it might take a while for it to be finished

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