I have find this video, seems promising
NON PLANAR LAYERS](https://youtu.be/km1lvuva5mI)
think i have find it...
After several tests, I saw that the problem was always similar, it did not matter the material, the layer height, the speed of printing ... after 1 or 2 layers, jamming occurred, and loss of steps of the heater, which another part is a double gear striker, and the voltage was raised to 800 mA in config.g.
Seeing the stuck filament, it looked like the tip formed a ball, and the distance coincided, approximately where the nozzle began.
At this point I have to say that I use a Prometheus v2 hotend ... seeing the documentation of this, I saw an error when I mount it ... and I did not put Thermal Silicone on the nozzle, so I put thermal silicone and gave it more distance the Heat Block to the Heat Skin. Before I had 2 mm, and I have put two nuts, in addition to 2 mm. In total about 6 mm, which forced me to modify the config.g, and adjust the loss of height effect
With this I tried to separate the source of heat, Heat Block, Heat Skin, and try to get the heat, did not reach the Heat Skin, and did not melt the material, this along with the silicone ends, it seems that it is working.
I have two impressions, with ABS, and for now, everything is correct, I still need to try PETG, which uses a higher temperature ...
I share my evidence here, in case you can serve someone ...
The truth is that it would have had more influence, if the silicone, or separate the Heat Block from the Heat Skin ...
Info obtained from E3d wiki, copy and paste..
Before you install your heater cartridge, you should double check that you both purchased and received the correct voltage cartridge. Cartridges are laser etched with their voltage, but all it is worth double-checking anyway. This process is less annoying than putting out a house fire. If you have a 12v30w heater cartridge, your multimeter should read 4.8Ω If you have a 24v30w heater cartridge, your multimeter should read 19.2Ω Your cartridges resistance may deviate slightly from these numbers, which is fine. We're mostly interested in verifying which cartridge type you have. If you have a 12v 40w heater cartridge your multimeter should read 3.6Ω If you have a 24v 40w heater cartridge your multimeter should read 14.4Ω
After the last problems that I have had with very wet filament ...
it occurs to me that if something could not be implemented in the Duet boards, with the same idea of the filament sensor, but being a humidity sensor ...
I don't know If it would be possible, but perhaps it could work that the filament "passed", before the hotend or the extruder, through this filament sensor, and measured the humidity of the filament, warning, or even, stopping the printing ...
What is the humidity that is recommended for the filament? Right now there is 70%. And I don't know what value is adapting, or which one I should look for...
Anyway it seems to me a lot, although the filament does not have that level of humidity, it will have enough...
I would like to know what is the maximum humidity and the recommended for printing. What solutions do you use to control humidity? I've seen several:
bake at low temperature, about 60
airtight plastic containers
I solved prepared for roll (on Amazon there are many) some recommended
others (moving to the Atacama Desert,....)
In the area where I live, Valencia (Spain), on the coast, there is a lot of humidity, it is easy for us to be over 70% ...
It is difficult to keep the filament rolls with low humidity ...
What effects does this humidity have? (on the impression and on the finished piece).
I am printing PETG for the first time, at a temperature of 240º .... but when it extrudes, I hear a "backfire" in the extruder, like micro explosions ...
This is because the temperature is too high? I have given that the PETG in 230 and 250, is its extrusion temperature
I have changed the heater cartridge for a 50W 24v ... and I have recalibrated the temperature control.
But I have a doubt .... at one point in the calibration process, the console can read something like: "Phase 4: turning fan off", I don't know if it will refer to the Heatskin fan, but it keeps turning, I do not stop ..
@cosmowave for the moment PETG...
I have a Precision Piezo Orion sensor installed on a Delta printer.
Since the Effector is modified, I printed some custom parts for the PPO.
The sensor works perfectly, the problem I have is that since I installed it above all I have noticed a slight misalignment in the layers that I print.
I have the theory, that the piece with which I took the PPO, I printed it with PLA. When you start printing and the temperature reaches the part, it becomes soft. Producing, possibly I am not sure, that the hotend has small movements, producing part of that desalting of the layers ... It is not serious, but annoying.
If I compare the pieces that I print, with those that other printers print, I notice that the surface of my pieces has a slight texture, produced, quite possibly, by that slight movement of the Hotend when part of the heat reaches it and "softens".
After all this royo ... the question:
(*) This I don't know if it will be good for the Precision Piezo Orion, maybe it needs some flexibility in the printed parts ...
Can someone tell me how he did it? (in a Delta)
I have read good thigs about ASA