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    Petg warping

    Scheduled Pinned Locked Moved Solved
    Tuning and tweaking
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    • ziggymanpopoundefined
      ziggymanpopo
      last edited by

      I was running a microswiss hotend warping wasnt realy bad but definitely there with petg
      Now with the hamera direct drive even a benchy
      Pops right off my glass buld platform i have always used a gluestick
      So whats the tricks with petg
      Fan setting ???? (Not versed well on use!!)
      Also noticed that the temps for my bed are crap
      With a lazer thermometer it only gets to 60°c even though the the setting says 70°c
      Once apon a time it used to be a cr10-s5 with 12v.
      Heaters 🤔 prob. Manditory to chainge to the 1000w 120v heatpad ive had for sometime can i get away with what i have ???? i will say that it is worse than before hemera....any idea why??? Missin something maybe ????

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      • ziggymanpopoundefined
        ziggymanpopo
        last edited by

        Does anyone have links to proper fan usage

        peter247undefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • peter247undefined
          peter247 @ziggymanpopo
          last edited by

          @ziggymanpopo

          https://rigid.ink/blogs/news/175700615-petg-filament-heres-what-you-need-to-know

          Ender 5 plus linear rail and hemera powered by duet 2 wifi , CR10s pro v1 with bltouch mostly stock , BLV mgn Cube slowly being built powered by duet 3 mini 5+

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          • Vetiundefined
            Veti
            last edited by

            @ziggymanpopo said in Petg warping:

            With a lazer thermometer it only gets to 60°c even though the the setting says 70°c

            your themistor config for the bed might be wrong. post your confi.g

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            • jens55undefined
              jens55
              last edited by

              For me PETG is incredibly sensitive to build plate temperature. Somewhere between 75 and 85 is a perfect temperature. Get it too cold and the edges curl up, get it too hot and the print won't come off the glass ever. This is printing straight onto clean glass.
              5 degrees is usually the difference between not sticking well and sticking too well.
              A cr10-s5 with anything other than a lie powered heater is useless.

              You might also be running a tad too high with the changed hardware.

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              • A Former User?
                A Former User
                last edited by A Former User

                For me 75/235 has worked for years.

                Printing on textured glass, and a coat printafix because petg sticks too well. As for a part cooling fan I dont use one and haven't done so for years I can get dimensional accuracy close enough to push fit bearings with no post processing.

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                • Stephen6309undefined
                  Stephen6309
                  last edited by Stephen6309

                  I use 255C first layer, 250C for the rest and 80C bed for Monoprice PETG. I have found that the Z0 you have set affects how much it sticks. I use PEI for the bed surface.

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                  • ziggymanpopoundefined
                    ziggymanpopo
                    last edited by

                    The posted link helps ... thanks i will post my config on a dif. Post later after i have a way to confirm my actual temp......i beleive i must do a heater upgrade to compensate for the large amount of aluminum heatsink (510mmx510mm) im loosing 10° due to bed size and never gets past 75°
                    On to the next upgrade thanks guys input always appreciated 😁

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                    • ziggymanpopoundefined
                      ziggymanpopo
                      last edited by

                      Not to mention the painfully slow increase in temp.
                      O M G CREALITY!!!!

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