@bearer

The stopping step is not the big thing which will put people who have used it for the past couple of year since the free-ish version.
The kicker the the only 10 item at a time ? .
Then what will they stop next ?

@Phaedrux I was using heater 7 before on rrf 2 , so moved the control pin to heater 7 and it works.

@alxndr ok let say you want to probe 50 from each corner ?.
M557 Start x : End x Start y : End Y S steps
M557 X50:170 Y50:170 Which works out to be 30 spacing
So M557 X50:170 Y50:170 S30 will probe between 50 and 170 inc.

The Stepper motors on my ender 5 is wired ABAB , which I would guess in correct for most creality printers.
So if you are swapping the middle pin you are wiring it up as AABB.
To test things out just short two wires on the stepper motor and you will fell a resistance to turning, that's how to find the phases of the stepper or use a meter.
As long as you get the phases correct it will just run in the wrong direction.

https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Choosing_and_connecting_stepper_motors

@Phaedrux

Not seen sykb on , But I can see lots of faults .
Can't tell what printer he has , but to me the off sets or wrong , the homing files are wrong , and he is not probing the centre of the bed.

yes your logic is correct of S55 is correct BUT DON'T FORGET , 0 and 220 is first and last points where the probe will check the bed, So the nozzle will be 45mm off the edge right side of the bed ?. ( don't know if this is a problem or not )
So you may only be able to probe 130mm of the bed.

0+45 and 220-45 ?

not sure about the R value never used it myself , it is a delay before after probe.

@ChrisF3D

1/ what version of the firmware are you using . try M122
( you are on version 3 of the config.g , but have you upgraded to version 3 firmware )
2/ Are you getting the red light and getting the in and out power on self test

@wieman01

M300 S300 P1000
echo "state.status" , state.status
 
if state.status = "paused"
	M24
elif state.status = "processing"
	M25

(1) beep 1 second 300hz
(2) show me state.state , just used for testing
(3) if state.status varable says "pause" resume printing
(4) resume printing from paused
(6) if state.status varable says "processing" you must be printing , so pause print
(7) pause print

@alxndr said in Duet 2 Wifi + BLtouch issues on Ender 5 pro:

; Z-Probe
M558 P9 C"^zprobe.in" H5 F100 T2000 ;
M950 S0 C"exp.heater3" ; define GPIO/Servo pin index
M557 X0:220 Y0:220 S25 ; define mesh grid
G31 X-45 Y-4 Z3.737 ;
M307 H3 A-1 C-1 D-1 ;

G31 X-45 Y-4 Z3.737 this should set it offset to 3.737mm from the trigger point of the probe to the bed, I never bothered with G92 Z0.

Too many points M557 X0:220 Y0:220 S25 , the S25 is the spacing between point so just increase the S value .

Just use m401 and m402 to test if the probe retracts .

Also m558 :- Rnnn Z probe recovery time before the probing move is started.

@Rushmere3D

So if your canary pegs it , it may not be carbon monoxide then !!!!!

@Rushmere3D @Veti

Its normal that petg needs to be printed a bit slower.
A bit slower at 50/25 m/s more like stopped !!

The fan was switched off , but the ender's hot end fan acts as the good part cooler, At 235c zero layer bonding @ 80m/s.

If so it's PTFE lined and 240°C is as high as you want to print.
I am using a capricorn tubing so it should be o.k upto 300c

Hi , I've had problem printing PETG where I've had to slow it down to sub 50m/s to get it to print.
I've being using the default ender 3 setting for the hot end and printing at what it says I should print at 235c for PETG.
At 80m/s the layers wasn't sticking together , so started increasing the temp trying 245c ,250c , 255c and found that I needed 260c which is far too high for PETG.
So is the default ender 3 hot end wrong for the ender 5 plus ? , OR is the temperature dropping that much that I need the extra boost.
No problem with printing PLA at 195c - 205c , so the temperature can't be that far off.

@Chriss

Like I said I had problem with my cr10s pro at first.
Home your printer and check the roller that they aren't too tight or too loose .
Keep raising z axis and keep checking the Z axis.

My problem was when it was level using levelling blocks to the top of the control box the roller wasn't level so I need to take the gantry apart to level the x bar myself

@Leblond

I've had the same problem once , it was the x axis wheels and stopped the ripple with linear rails , but I guess getting better would have fixed it too.

@Chriss

This is my test of my cr10s pro.
My test file is 200mm x 200mm x 0.2mm , 30mm smaller and a second layer , 30mm smaller and another layer .

Had a little problem in one corner , but I think it was due to not cleaning the bed for the test and running over the remains of my last print.

@Chriss

I've ordered off them before , but thought they was Czech , but I think I was mixing that up with Fillamentum which is what I purchased.

( The niceshops group is an Austrian company )

@Chriss

try the UK version :- https://www.3djake.uk/3djake/glass-plate-with-chemical-coating

@Chriss

Didn't the cr10s pro v2 come with one of these ?.
https://technologyoutlet.co.uk/collections/printer-parts-spares/products/carborundum-glass-plate?variant=32606698438735

Or was it like the v1 a metal plate with a buildtakie clone sheet ?