Capricorn PTFE Tubing XS- Low Friction
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You can tell just holding it in your hand that there is a big difference. It is slicker than PTFE, stiffer and tighter tolerences.
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Yes it is the Opaque one, it is also supposed to be better for flexible filaments, ill be reporting back soon about that as I have some Taulman and matter hackers pro flexibles
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Nice! Any chance you could post photos?
Here is an LM8UU bearing with PLA 205c and no cooling at about 42mm/s
as you can see there are no defects, I will get some more prints tomorrow. I am tired and my kids have seemed to run off with my test prints again.
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@Whitewolf. What extruder are you using? I'd guess that you wouldn't want one that bites too deeply into the filament as hobbed bolt marks might cause it to jam with the tube bore being only .05 bigger than the filament OD.
Can't find a UK source. In fact, I can't find a UK source for any 1/8mm bore PTFE.
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It is a printed direct drive (no gearing) the spring is heavy duty even in its lowest setting the hobbed gear is very tight and filament cannot be pushed through without motor off.
As you can see from the photos i run the PTFE all the way to the gear (I want to be able to print flexibles from a bowden setup)
I have not had jamming issues but so far have only tested on PLA. I have not yet done softer filaments but will do so soon as i finish the pressure advance calibration.
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I also have the new E3D 0.9 degree stepper motor with titan which i plan to install right next to this one so i can do a side by side comparison
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I don't kind of get this 0.9 degree stepper on a Titan thing. I know E3D are selling them and it seems they have the motor made especially for them. But the steps per mm for a Titan with a standard 1.8 degree stepper are a tad over 400 which means that a 0.9 degree stepper will want over 800. Why would one need that sort of resolution? Or is there some other reason for having a 0.9 degree stepper motor on a geared extruder?
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I dunno, well see…. I think everything comes down to configuration.... thats why I want to do a side by side, I cannot imagine it will give me better resolution than I currently have maybe faster speeds while maintaining resolution, we'll see.
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If you zoom in on the top of this print you can see the lines… this is .2mm with a .4 nozzle and .4 extrusion width printed at 60mm /s.... really cant see the titan improving that or the 0.9 degree accept maybe at faster speeds
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How nicely does the XS stuff cut with a razor knife? Can it easily be "pointed" so it fits between the two drive gears, like normal PTFE tube, or does it crumble or is it hard to cut?
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I don't kind of get this 0.9 degree stepper on a Titan thing. I know E3D are selling them and it seems they have the motor made especially for them. But the steps per mm for a Titan with a standard 1.8 degree stepper are a tad over 400 which means that a 0.9 degree stepper will want over 800. Why would one need that sort of resolution? Or is there some other reason for having a 0.9 degree stepper motor on a geared extruder?
At 0.15mm filament width and 0.05mm layer height, 1mm of print length is 0.0075mm^3 of polymer.
At 800 steps/mm, one step = 0.003mm^3 of polymer. So the benefit really is in very small extrusion widths/layer heights.
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@bot:
How nicely does the XS stuff cut with a razor knife? Can it easily be "pointed" so it fits between the two drive gears, like normal PTFE tube, or does it crumble or is it hard to cut?
Yes there is a photo above with exactly that…. I cut it to a V with scissors
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I don't kind of get this 0.9 degree stepper on a Titan thing. I know E3D are selling them and it seems they have the motor made especially for them. But the steps per mm for a Titan with a standard 1.8 degree stepper are a tad over 400 which means that a 0.9 degree stepper will want over 800. Why would one need that sort of resolution? Or is there some other reason for having a 0.9 degree stepper motor on a geared extruder?
At 0.15mm filament width and 0.05mm layer height, 1mm of print length is 0.0075mm^3 of polymer.
At 800 steps/mm, one step = 0.003mm^3 of polymer. So the benefit really is in very small extrusion widths/layer heights.
Good to know, thank you
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Yes. So when I have a nozzle that can print about 2 hairs breadth wide and 3/4 of a hairs breadth tall I might need the extra resolution. Can't see me running out to buy a nozzle that size any time soon.
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Ian, check this out:
http://e3d-online.com/High-Res-015-NozzlesImagine the time it would take to fill your build area with one of those!
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If my wife ever gets into 3d printing jewelry i might pick one of those up lol
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On one machine I have a flex3drive which is geared 40:1 and my esteps/mm is 3600. Does it manifestly improve the prints compared to titan with 1.8 degree motor - no. There are other benefits obviously.
Might a 0.9 deg motor be beneficial with 0.15mm nozzle? Yes certainly with low geared/ungeared extruders, but these are rapidly falling out of fashion.
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On one machine I have a flex3drive which is geared 40:1 and my esteps/mm is 3600. Does it manifestly improve the prints compared to titan with 1.8 degree motor - no. There are other benefits obviously.
Might a 0.9 deg motor be beneficial with 0.15mm nozzle? Yes certainly with low geared/ungeared extruders, but these are rapidly falling out of fashion.
I am going to check these out, just viewed the webpage. I like what I see so far but I wonder what teaming one of these up with a titan aero would do
https://flex3drive.com/flex3drive/f3d-dda/ -
Ian, check this out:
http://e3d-online.com/High-Res-015-NozzlesImagine the time it would take to fill your build area with one of those!
Yes that would be like me watering my garden with a hypodermic needle on the end of my hose pipe.
So how do you prevent blockages? On a nozzle that small I reckon you'd need to have the printer installed in a clean room, fed with filtered air at just above atmospheric pressure, enter via an air lock, wearing a one piece paper overall, a hair net and surgical mask.
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Ian, check this out:
http://e3d-online.com/High-Res-015-NozzlesImagine the time it would take to fill your build area with one of those!
Yes that would be like me watering my garden with a hypodermic needle on the end of my hose pipe.
So how do you prevent blockages? On a nozzle that small I reckon you'd need to have the printer installed in a clean room, fed with filtered air at just above atmospheric pressure, enter via an air lock, wearing a one piece paper overall, a hair net and surgical mask.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2119644
that would do the trick and using only the recommended filaments for that nozzle
