Polycarbonate build plate…. No bed heat Success!!!
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I have been runnning PEI 3mm from the start, prep with a quick sand @ 600 grit then wipe with alcohol. sticks very well and yes some times too good and i have to let the bed cool before i can get the print off but 750 watt heater might have something to do with that too. I havent tried anything but PLA yet, still learning the craft so have not jumped to other filaments yet as i thought it would be easier to learn with something easy like PLA is supposed to be… This shows real promise though so i am curious to say the least.
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PLA is forgiving but dont be affraid of other filaments. I recommend you try Taulman Guidline and Taulman blueprint products next they are easy to print with and have better properties than PLA or ABS. Personally I dont care for ABS and only use PLA for tinkering and prototype iteration. Honestly I love most of the Taulman line
Matterhackers has some flexibles that make printing with flex easier in their pro line.
I have not actually used it yet but ordered the sample pack of RigidInk PLA+…. many people swear by RigidInk PLA+ as being the gold standard for Tough PLA parts
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I tried PLA+ but gave up on it. It sticks far too well to plain heated glass and to PEI for me. Possibly I should try again with a lower bed temperature. But if you have problems getting the print to adhere to the bed, it might be just what you need.
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I tried PLA+ but gave up on it. It sticks far too well to plain heated glass and to PEI for me. Possibly I should try again with a lower bed temperature. But if you have problems getting the print to adhere to the bed, it might be just what you need.
As far as the PC bed goes as noted above people in the past gave up on it due to sticking too well. What gave me the idea to try PC sanded was because of my Fleks3D build plate being made from PC with what appears to be a etched maybe sandblasted surface. Using any type of heat on most filaments results in parts which are near impossible to remove, I think a combination of the sanding and lack of heat is what makes it possible.
So you might try the Pei again with no heat on PLA+ or give PC a try… i'll let you know in a few days how PLA+ works with PC
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Good idea sanding it, its a cheap readily available material. How well does it work with ABS? Can you print ABS cold onto PC?
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I have not done ABS, because I use other filaments in place of ABS but in another thread here a user commented that he tried it with ABS and 0 bed heat without issue.
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PLA is forgiving but dont be affraid of other filaments. I recommend you try Taulman Guidline and Taulman blueprint products next they are easy to print with and have better properties than PLA or ABS. Personally I dont care for ABS and only use PLA for tinkering and prototype iteration. Honestly I love most of the Taulman line
Matterhackers has some flexibles that make printing with flex easier in their pro line.
I have not actually used it yet but ordered the sample pack of RigidInk PLA+…. many people swear by RigidInk PLA+ as being the gold standard for Tough PLA parts
I have some taulman 910 sitting in wait for acceptable print quality so i can reproduce some printer parts and ultimately some replacement parts for my old sailboat. At what point do i need to consider temp upgrade beyond aluminum? Have all metal hot end now with brass tips but am guessing copper heater block& ss tip not to mention heat sensor upgrade so i can print higher temp stuff. I thought PC was 1 of those hi temp materials, right? so guessing you are well beyond those upgrades already…
i am still a newbie but have run a couple rolls of matterhacker PLA filament that worked very well for me. this latest roll of "USA FIL" pla is almost as flexible as ABS and feels rubberized post print which is cool but tore my machine to pieces when i screwed up retract setting and am having to reinvent the wheel to get it dialed in again LOL lots to do this weekend...ugh
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So I have not printed PC, I am printing on 1/8th inch PC build plate. Yes I have a copper heat block with copper nozzles and PT100 sensor.
The PLA+ from RigidInk is just that rigid and very strong. It actually takes much different slicer settings to standard PLA (to my understanding).
I have Taulman 910 but I recommend using Taulman Guidl!ne for your printer and sailboat parts. It is not sensitive to water absorption like the Nylons are and is stronger than their TechG and close to 910 in strength but a lot easier to print. Blueprint is another one to check out.
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thank you Sir! i will definitely look into that.
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Good idea sanding it, its a cheap readily available material. How well does it work with ABS? Can you print ABS cold onto PC?
I tried both ABS and PETG and both worked.
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I've read about polycarbonate build plates before and the tenor was, the parts often stick too good. Maybe it's the sanding, that makes all the difference? Would it work with shotblasting too? I guess it depends on the stuff you shoot at it?
Where did you get the POM filament from? ( Why do they offer it, when it is "known" to be unprintable? )
I've made these 2040-sliders from PTFE, but POM would be much better I guess.Where did you find PTFE filament? I have searched and only see a press announcement of 3M's patent pending filament.
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So just to update everyone, I am in the early testing phase of Igus iglidur filament. First I tried with the settings used for the Acetal POM, I did use 55c bed heat with Acetal because combined with a small brim, it completely eliminated warping. For Igus Iglidur though it cause some serious bed adhesion so I am retrying now with no bed heat.
One of the things that I found interesting is starting with the acetal pom temp of 220 which is the low end of iglidur, I did not get any layer adhesion and was able to seperate each layer. Inspecting it was interesting because at that temp it has a rough paper feel to it.
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I was lazy and didnt remove the brim from the slicer settings but Igus Iglidur does not need it. It sticks perfectly to the PC with no bed heat and no warping.
I do have an enclosed printer which is recommended for this filament. Others have had success just covering their printer with painters plastic.
I will compare the Acetal Pom and Iglidur in another thread soon as i do not want to derail the thread subject but 255c was the magic temp for the hotend.
Matter hackers temps are wrong manufacturer website says 250c to 260c
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Interesting, what product is that? From the colour it’s not J260-PF, maybe I150-PF? Would be pretty neat to print multi material parts with integrated bushings! I wonder how it combines with ABS, PC and other materials…
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It is Iglidur I180-PF
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Ok, looking forward to your comparison!
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Where did you find PTFE filament? I have searched and only see a press announcement of 3M's patent pending filament.
Sorry, I meant PETG
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Quick update here it is printing Taulman Guidl!ne filament with no bed heat… not surprizing that it sticks but figured i would share my new x carriage being printed
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Another update:
Here it is printing flexible filament without bed heat, this is Matter Hackers Pro Flex…. I will test a print with Taulman3d's flexible filament soon but I am sure there will be no problems.
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Im testing a new build plate for someone at the moment http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?1,776178,777450#msg-777450 and the issue is not adhesion, it sticks really well even at modest temperatures or no heat at all. The issue is release, ABS parts printed with any squash down on the first layer at a surface temp of more than 60 degrees are welded to the surface.
This is where established products like printbite have been carefully formulated, they need higher temps to stick but release parts at higher temps for convenience.
How does the PC sheet work in this regard? As I see it the best surface is one which is essentially permanent and long lasting, so if release is a problem and requires sharp tools this isnt likely to be the case. Otherwise the surface has to be cheap and easily replaced as its longevity is short.
