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    3D printin issues on a core XY equiped with a duet wifi

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    Tuning and tweaking
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    • Vetiundefined
      Veti @campeancalin
      last edited by Veti

      @campeancalin said in 3D printin issues on a core XY equiped with a duet wifi:

      the printheads are 24V E3D V6

      if they are genuine e3d then you need 2 values
      B4725 C7.06e-8

      This will account for about 20 degrees difference at 200C

      i would do a pid tune, but the pid value should not change by much.

      btw what nozzle are you using? the carbon filament will destroy a normal brass nozzle and could also account for the blobs you are seeing

      campeancalinundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • campeancalinundefined
        campeancalin @Veti
        last edited by

        @Veti It's not a brass nozzle ; reinfoced steel. I plan on having a look at it after it's gone thru a spool of filament.

        Vetiundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • Vetiundefined
          Veti @campeancalin
          last edited by

          @campeancalin said in 3D printin issues on a core XY equiped with a duet wifi:

          reinfoced steel.

          that is ok for wear, but very bad for temperature transfer.

          f1aef3d2-a169-4801-aa02-f8ceaa604b0f-image.png

          i would suggest that you print a temperature tower.

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          • campeancalinundefined
            campeancalin
            last edited by

            I have a little problem with the PID tunning. Once I've changed the values , it gives me the following error message:

            M307 H1 S285
            

            Error: M307: bad model parameters

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            • campeancalinundefined
              campeancalin
              last edited by

              ; Heaters
              M308 S0 P"bedtemp" Y"thermistor" T100000 B4138 ; configure sensor 0 as thermistor on pin bedtemp
              M950 H0 C"bedheat" T0 ; create bed heater output on bedheat and map it to sensor 0
              M307 H0 B0 S1.00 ; disable bang-bang mode for the bed heater and set PWM limit
              M140 H0 ; map heated bed to heater 0
              M143 H0 S250 ; set temperature limit for heater 0 to 120C
              M308 S1 P"e0temp" Y"thermistor" T100000 B4725 C7.06e-8 ; configure sensor 1 as thermistor on pin e0temp
              M950 H1 C"e0heat" T1 ; create nozzle heater output on e0heat and map it to sensor 1
              M307 H1 B0 S1.00 ; disable bang-bang mode for heater and set PWM limit
              M308 S2 P"e1temp" Y"thermistor" T100000 B4725 C7.06e-8 ; configure sensor 2 as thermistor on pin e1temp
              M950 H2 C"e1heat" T2 ; create nozzle heater output on e1heat and map it to sensor 2
              M307 H2 B0 S1.00 ; disable bang-bang mode for heater and set PWM limit

              jay_s_ukundefined Vetiundefined 2 Replies Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • jay_s_ukundefined
                jay_s_uk @campeancalin
                last edited by

                @campeancalin M303 is used to PID tune, not M307

                Owns various duet boards and is the main wiki maintainer for the Teamgloomy LPC/STM32 port of RRF. Assume I'm running whatever the latest beta/stable build is

                campeancalinundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • campeancalinundefined
                  campeancalin @jay_s_uk
                  last edited by

                  @jay_s_uk Thank you

                  1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • Vetiundefined
                    Veti @campeancalin
                    last edited by

                    @campeancalin said in 3D printin issues on a core XY equiped with a duet wifi:

                    M143 H0 S250 ; set temperature limit for heater 0 to 120C

                    can you bed really reach 250C? the bed does not look like the special e3d high temperature bed. and those can reach 250, but should not be operated above 200C

                    campeancalinundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • campeancalinundefined
                      campeancalin @Veti
                      last edited by

                      @Veti No. I've PID tunned it for a max temp of 100 C

                      Stephen6309undefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • Stephen6309undefined
                        Stephen6309 @campeancalin
                        last edited by

                        @campeancalin PID doesn't set a max temperature, the M143 does.

                        1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
                        • theruttmeisterundefined
                          theruttmeister @campeancalin
                          last edited by

                          @campeancalin
                          Looking at the pictures, either you are over-extruding or your first layer is too low (which means you are trying to fit too much material in too little space). That causes material to push up higher than it should, and if the nozzle runs into those lumps it tends to cause layer shifts.

                          And if you don't have one already, get a filament drier, CF filled filaments absorb moisture like crazy and need to be dried. If you look closely you might be able to see the filament bubbling as it comes out of the nozzle. Drying the filament for at least 24 hours will make a huge difference to both print quality and material strength.

                          Isolate, substitute, verify.

                          1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
                          • Phaedruxundefined
                            Phaedrux Moderator
                            last edited by

                            How many walls are you using? Are you using concentric infill?

                            It's typical to use only a few walls and solid or rectilinear infill for the rest. Using too many walls can lead to over extrusion building up.

                            Z-Bot CoreXY Build | Thingiverse Profile

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