[HELP] Ender 3 Pro + Duet WiFi 2



  • Hi All,

    I'm having a lot of frustration accumulating while trying to apply the Wifi 2 board with my Ender 3 Pro 😕
    I had the wires all connected successfully but I'm getting lost with all the examples of RepRap configurations (I see a lot about the Maestro board but not duet WiFi 2).
    Can someone shed some light here on the right (best practice) configuration for Ender 3 Pro + WiFi 2 specifically? I spent days trying to understand how am I suppose to configure the printer, I'm exhausted. Any help/tips would be GREATLY APPRICIATED!!! 🙂

    Regards,
    Didi



  • the configuration for the duet maestro is nearly the same.

    the difference is that the wifi has R4700 resistance for the Thermistors whereas the maestro has R2200.

    Apart from that the rest is the same.

    Where exactly are you stuck?



  • Hi Veti,

    thanks so much for the quick response!
    I saw that comment to change the R2200 to R4700 but I still see a lot of errors. for example when I'm trying to test the homing of the x, y ,z.
    I also noticed that the article about the maestro using an old Reprap configuration files. I tried to run the wizard again but I noticed that there are additional fields now (than where were before when the article was made).
    I managed to install the 3.1.1 firmware on the Duet board, but besides that I feel really lost/overwhelmed by all the configuration parameters. I'm not an expert in this field and was hoping that there would be like a pre-configured profiles to apply instead of fine tune every single parameter (is there a reason to be able to tune each parameter instead of using presets for known printers? why would one want to mess up the best practice with modifying each value?)
    if you have a config.zip that contains all the configuration needed to operate the Ender 3 Pro with the best/optimal settings. again, I'm not really an expert just want to have the capability to send prints over wifi and maybe a little bit more configuration (maybe add a fan, or something similar) more than that? I'm not sure if I understand the potential of this card to have an opinion 😕

    Didi


  • Moderator

    Yes, getting started with any 3d printer can be daunting, especially one as customizable as reprapfirmware.

    You can start with the web tool. Select the Ender 3 Pro profile as a starting point and then choose Duet Wifi and RRF3 as the board.

    To make this easier for you, I've created a profile using the web tool just now. You can choose "use existing configuration" on the starting page and then upload this file and it will pre-populate everything for you. Then at the finish tab you can download a zip file that you can upload to the printer.

    config_Ender3_wifi.json

    https://configtool.reprapfirmware.org/Start



  • Thank you very very much! I really appreciate this!
    Another thing I forgot to mention, I bought a bltouch about 8 months ago (almost the same time I bought the Duet board, yes.. just now I'm installing it..)
    I saw that people connect it to different pins on different posts, is there a best practice for that too? Would you recommend a specific mount for it as well? I saw so many in thingiverse (again.. super overwhelming)

    Thanks!
    Didi


  • Moderator

    I assumed you might have a BLTouch and selected that as part of the config. I chose heater pin 3. You have the option of 3 or 7. It doesn't matter which.

    As for mount, that's up to you. It may be overwhelming but that's part of the fun of 3d printing. All the options available. There is a learning curve to be sure.



  • The learning curve is really "sharp" 🙂 I guess with time I'll gain more experience (hopefully).
    thank you @Phaedrux !



  • Another thing I forgot to ask. I've noticed that in the Maestro article he mentioned that he connected the board to the Ender 3 Pro display (the PCB). is that possible for the WiFi 2 as well?


  • Moderator

    @didi767 said in [HELP] Ender 3 Pro + Duet WiFi 2:

    is that possible for the WiFi 2 as well?

    Not really. Not easily anyway. You can check this thread out. Though I'm not sure where they ended up with it.

    https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/15611/logic-level-shifter-for-12864-display-on-duet-2-wifi



  • Yeah I guess I'll just use the web GUI.
    I managed to home all 3 axis without an error, and test the hot end temp test and also the fan turned off when it reached below 45C so I guess I'm good with that. but, once it happened I got an error message:
    "error shutting down due to an un-cleared heater fault after 600 seconds"
    I also have the fan on the side of the hot end working all the time (I remember that it was on also when I had the stock board installed, but is it necessary to have it on or not?)

    Thanks,
    Didierror heater 600 seconds.PNG



  • This post is deleted!


  • heater fault.PNG



  • fixed it with: M303 H1 S240 and M303 H0 S60
    and saved it with M500.
    anything else I should do or test?



  • I tried to print a test print for leveling just to see if it would be successful. so the hot end and the bed reached 200 and 50 and then I noticed that the Z axis moving terribly slow... and when it moved on the Y axis and push the bed as far as possible towards the front and then I noticed that it keeps trying to push/move and making noises like it's stuck. I immediately turned the printer off 😕
    I'm desperately trying to make the printer work again... this is super frustrating..



  • @Phaedrux said in [HELP] Ender 3 Pro + Duet WiFi 2:

    Not really. Not easily anyway. You can check this thread out. Though I'm not sure where they ended up with it.

    the standard firmware does not have enough free ram to include this. so at the moment the code necessary is not part of the wifi 2 firmware.

    see
    https://github.com/Duet3D/RepRapFirmware/blob/v3-dev/WHATS_NEW_RRF3.md

    [Duet 2 + 12864 display] There is insufficient free RAM to run Duet WiFi/Ethernet with 12864 display



  • @didi767 said in [HELP] Ender 3 Pro + Duet WiFi 2:

    I noticed that it keeps trying to push/move and making noises like it's stuck. I immediately turned the printer off

    this is most likely a wiring problem. likely a wire not making contact because of a bad crimp in the connector. check the wiring with a multimeter.


  • Moderator

    All the motors worked correctly when homing?

    Can you verify that the movement directions are correct?

    When looking at the printer from the front, the print head should move like this:
    X+ should go right, X- should go left.
    Y+ should go to the back, Y- should go to the front
    0,0 should be at the front left corner

    And based on this, where are the endstops located? Front, back, left, right?

    Can you post your config.g and your homeall, homex, homey, homez, files.

    It's possible that the endstops are configured incorrectly, or perhaps the slicer is setup incorrectly causing it to think the print coordinates are not where they are in physical space.



  • homez.g homey.g homex.g homeall.g config-override.g config.g bed.g @Phaedrux
    X is going the right way but the +Y brings the bed to the front and -Y to the back 😕
    another thing, when I'm trying to home X it brings the extruder to the left front corner and then go down, but the problem is that the BLtouch is not aligned with the bed, so it doesn't touch the bed (it's in the air) and the extruder touches it without stopping (I manually triggered the bltouch to prevent the extruder to keep pushing downward). I'm assuming I need to add something to the configuration to make the corner coordinates to include the BLtouch?

    the endstops:
    for X it's on the left side
    for Y it's in the back
    and the Z I didn't plug in since I have the bltouch
    (Uploading 100%)



  • @Veti You were right, one wire slipped out 🙂


  • Moderator

    @didi767 said in [HELP] Ender 3 Pro + Duet WiFi 2:

    but the +Y brings the bed to the front and -Y to the back

    It's a bit confusing because the bed is moving, but really we're talking about the position of the nozzle.

    So let me ask it another way, when the nozzle is positioned at the front left corner of the bed, are the coordinates 0,0? Or 0,235?

    To position the BLTouch correctly change your homeall.g

    G90                     ; absolute positioning
    G1 X15 Y15 F6000        ; go to first bed probe point and home Z
    G30                     ; home Z by probing the bed
    

    Change the X15 Y15 to something closer to X150 Y150



  • I changed the values to 150 as you said.
    the 0,0 should be at the "tool position"? (sorry for the ignorant question). if it is, yes. it shows 0,0 when homing X and Y.
    I'm assuming you wanted to know if it's the right corner? so 0,235 would be the opposite side right?
    I can't home Z still since I see the bltouch is "in the air" but the nozzle looks right about the corner of the bed

    oh. and the Y+ goes to the front, is that okay? you mentioned it supposed to go back


  • Moderator

    @didi767 said in [HELP] Ender 3 Pro + Duet WiFi 2:

    the 0,0 should be at the "tool position"? (sorry for the ignorant question). if it is, yes. it shows 0,0 when homing X and Y.

    Yes, tool position. So 0,0 has the nozzle at the front left corner of the bed?

    @didi767 said in [HELP] Ender 3 Pro + Duet WiFi 2:

    oh. and the Y+ goes to the front, is that okay? you mentioned it supposed to go back

    Are you saying that the bed moves forward? or the nozzle moves forward on the bed (because the bed is sliding back).

    Cartesian-coordinate-system.png

    If this image shows your bed, the 0,0 would be the front left corner of the end and the printable area would be in the green area (2,3).

    @didi767 said in [HELP] Ender 3 Pro + Duet WiFi 2:

    I can't home Z still since I see the bltouch is "in the air" but the nozzle looks right about the corner of the bed

    Even with your homeall changed to have X150 Y150? That should cause the nozzle to be roughly positioned in the center of your bed.



  • @Phaedrux
    Yes, the position is 0,0 and the nozzle is at the corner (front left).
    and Yes, the bed moves forward when I'm tapping on +Y (so nozzle is basically moving/positioning backward.
    and I changed the homeall with: G1 X150 Y150 F6000.
    and you're right, I didn't understand at first to tap the homeall. I just went manual to each axis. now that I tapped the homeall it went to the center.. well.. not really the center when I look straight from above (seems like (1,2) on the graph you posted, a bit to the back of the center point). so I should only use homeall once restarting the machine before print?

    I'm trying to print the level test and the motors moves pretty slow, the Z especially (super slow!) is that normal? I remember with stock it was pretty fast

    even the extruder is barely working.. it can't extrude



  • So.. I increased the values:
    M92 X80.00 Y80.00 Z400.00 E741.00 ; set steps per mm
    the E value seemed a bit off (but i saw this guy on YouTube that set this value).
    so now it seems like it's moving faster but the extruder still doesn't work properly.
    any specific values I need to set for the Ender configuration?


  • Moderator

    @didi767 said in [HELP] Ender 3 Pro + Duet WiFi 2:

    Yes, the position is 0,0 and the nozzle is at the corner (front left).
    and Yes, the bed moves forward when I'm tapping on +Y (so nozzle is basically moving/positioning backward.

    Ok that sounds correct.

    @didi767 said in [HELP] Ender 3 Pro + Duet WiFi 2:

    I changed the homeall with: G1 X150 Y150 F6000.

    You can adjust the 150 150 values to move the probe closer to the actual center. The important thing was getting it to actually probe on the bed. You can make the same change to the homez file so that it works when you home the Z axis by itself.

    Your Z axis is slow because the speed limit set in config.g is very low.

    M566 X1200.00 Y1200.00 Z24.00 E300.00              ; set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min)
    M203 X9000.00 Y9000.00 Z180.00 E6000.00            ; set maximum speeds (mm/min)
    M201 X500.00 Y500.00 Z100.00 E5000.00              ; set accelerations (mm/s^2)
    

    M203 Z180 is very slow. Try changing these values for Z

    M566 Z60
    M203 Z600
    M201 Z200

    As for your extruder steps per mm, it's best to calibrate that using a technique like this: https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Guide/Ender+3+Pro+and+Duet+Maestro+Guide+Part+4:+Calibration/40


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