T3P3 Kossel Mini R3 Wiring harness
-
Why not consider selling a wiring harness for Duet Wifi/ethernet to smart effector?
That would save a lot of time and trouble.
Too many variables I think, e.g. what length should it be, and for a PT100 or a thermistor?
-
I'm curious if T3P3 is considering selling a wiring harness to connect from the 10-pin Molex on the Kossel Mini R3 to the two separate Molex connectors that are part of the new smart effector? My kit has wiring loom breakout PCB V2 as shown about 4/5ths of the way down the page here:
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1kCky9gNnUOsWN_fntAT6vUc3SMkjG3exQ_DxXZ9MSZc/pub
If not – any advice on a Bill of Materials for correct connectors and wire gauge?
Thanks,
John
We are not currently planning to produce a wiring look for the Kossel Mini, are you upgrading your mini with the Smart Effector? The mini will loose a bit of build area with the smart effector (its bigger than the original effector), we assumed most people would want to put it into a larger delta. To be economical wiring looms need to be ordered in bulk (at least by us) and as David says there are a lot of variations. Sending the connectors with the kit should help the rewiring process.
For the pinouts the effector end is documented here:
https://duet3d.com/wiki/Smart_effector_and_carriage_adapters_for_delta_printer#Connectors_and_WiringThe documentation for the Duet 0.8.5 end on the R3 shows which cables from the 12 way wiring loom plug in where:
https://docs.google.com/document/u/1/d/1CqJwpRJI9Wil7MTjVcXpxkBfyuBwODlGtn1otZ1047M/pub.The wiring looms were made to measure so there is not a huge amount of slack but hopefully there is just enough if you cut the 12 way connector off. Alternatively you can retain the effector breakout PCB from the R3 (and mount it above the Smart Effector) and wire the individual connectors from one to the other.
-
We are not currently planning to produce a wiring look for the Kossel Mini, are you upgrading your mini with the Smart Effector? The mini will loose a bit of build area with the smart effector (its bigger than the original effector), we assumed most people would want to put it into a larger delta.
Yes, I'm considering upgrading my mini with the Smart Effector. I think I have the last kit T3P3 shipped. It was a blend of the standard R3 and DuetWiFi and Titan Extruder. It's working very well. I already have Haydn's rods with Delrin cups and the magnetic studs (purchased for another project, but I had decided to use them on the Kossel Mini instead). I didn't realize that the Smart Effector was larger, and thus would impact the build area. I'll have to think about that.
To be economical wiring looms need to be ordered in bulk (at least by us) and as David says there are a lot of variations.
Understood.
Sending the connectors with the kit should help the rewiring process.
Indeed it will.
Alternatively you can retain the effector breakout PCB from the R3 (and mount it above the Smart Effector) and wire the individual connectors from one to the other.
Interesting idea! I'll consider that too.
Thanks for the information!
John
-
If it makes any difference I just wired my smart effector up today. I used two Cat5E network cables. One for the Black 2x3 plug and one for the 8-way plug. This leaves me 6 unused cores for future expansion. For the heater cartridge I used the braided cable as normally supplied with them, I don't think 24 AWG or 26 AWG wire can handle 3-4 amps (just upgraded to a "50w" heater cartridge, which has a real world power output of 40w, that being said the last genuine e3d 30w cartridge I bought only puts out 23w!).
-
Me and Doug have both used 24awg cat 5e cable, we have double wired the cable to run the heater and it works perfect, only have 2 cables and the drive tube connected now and it's perfect
-
Thanks guys. I have lots of Cat 5e around. I'll just need to figure out the best way to run the heater wires. I have some gorgeous 14 AWG silicon wires, but that might be overkill, and not fit in the connectors.
-
So - how much will the Smart Extruder decrease the 170mm diameter of the Kossel Mini compared to the T3P3 extruder?
Thanks,
John
-
Me and Doug have both used 24awg cat 5e cable, we have double wired the cable to run the heater and it works perfect, only have 2 cables and the drive tube connected now and it's perfect
Hi, so you used the Cat5e cable for the heater also. Are you running 24v heaters?
I'm running 12v heater cartridge and so were talking 3-4 amps rather than 1-2amps. I wasn't too comfortable with 3-4 amps through two 24awg cables.
-
Me and Doug have both used 24awg cat 5e cable, we have double wired the cable to run the heater and it works perfect, only have 2 cables and the drive tube connected now and it's perfect
And what about crimping two wires in one Microfit pin? Does it fit well?
-
@DjDemonD yes both rommie and myself use 24V heaters so well within the doubled up 24AWG Wiring
@Zov yes they fit quite easily as long as you twist them well there should be no issues.Doug
-
So - how much will the Smart Extruder decrease the 170mm diameter of the Kossel Mini compared to the T3P3 extruder?
Thanks,
John
I have not tested it exactly (things like fan overhangs have an impact) but the rod spacing is 10mm wider so estimating 10mm less in radius, 20mm in diameter.
-
Tony does the effector really get that close to the towers on a R3 I've never seen one so don't know but guess it would also need a new carriage design for it as well?
-
The build area is setup by default to give a small amount of clearance., a larger effector would certainly require a slightly smaller build diameter, maybe not as much as 20mm (if the clearance is reduced). The R3 uses trucks that run on the 20x20 extrusion using delrin wheels. They are attached to the belt/arm carriages using the same bolt spacing as standard rails (20x20) so the PCB carriage adapter should fit in there fine. A slightly modified carriage with no mounts for traxas arms, 2mm thinner to make up for the carriage adaptor would be good.
-
another option may be to replace all the horizontal extrusions by some that are slightly longer and that should cost to much but it is a shame
-
yes rebuilding the printer bigger is always an option…
-
Could probably get away with what DC42 did when he went to 4020 and just print some 2020 extensions.
-
I rebuilt my original R1 Mini Kossel for a 300mm printable diameter by using longer horizontal extrusions and longer arms. I figured that I could live with the reduction in build height to about 90mm, and for a while I did.
If all you want to do is get back the lost build area after switching to the smart effector, you could increase the lengths of the arms and horizontal extrusions by a much smaller amount, and lose much less build height.
-
So - how much will the Smart Extruder decrease the 170mm diameter of the Kossel Mini compared to the T3P3 extruder?
Thanks,
John
I have not tested it exactly (things like fan overhangs have an impact) but the rod spacing is 10mm wider so estimating 10mm less in radius, 20mm in diameter.
Thanks for the info!
-
What would be the optimal cable to use to make a wiring harness?
I think I'll try to make it myself
-Jannis
