How i crimp those terminals?
-
Yes these terminals require a fairly simple crush.
-
The connector for power in and Vout is a 4 way barrier strip, so you could simply not use the connector and clamp the wires in the terminal block. Arguably that might give a better connection than a poorly crimped fork connector.
-
@peirof said in How i crimp those terminals?:
now .... the problem is that I already have two crimpers, and buy one more for 4 connectors ... well ... I don't feel like it ....
Check local electrical suppliers, you should be able to get just a tool similar to the one in that kit very cheaply - eg.
https://www.toolstation.com/minotaur-ratchet-crimping-tool/p46714Or anyone you know who is an electrician or works on vehicle electrics probably has one you could borrow to do those terminals.
And as deckingman says, there is nothing wrong with just using wires in the screw terminals; the crimps just make it easier to re-connect if you ever need to and avoid stray strands that could short something.
-
@peirof said in How i crimp those terminals?:
@fcwilt now .... the problem is that I already have two crimpers, and buy one more for 4 connectors ... well ... I don't feel like it ....
Well the one I listed has interchangeable dies - perhaps it does what you have and you could get rid of one or two of your existing tools.
I'm not going to say how many crimpers I own. I will say I buy the tools the manufactures suggest.
Good luck.
Frederick
-
@peirof standard red/blue/yellow automotive crimp tools will crimp these terminals. There are ratchet tool to crimp these as well as low-cost non-ratchet tools that are included in generic tool kits, similar to https://www.amazon.co.uk/Rolson-Multi-Purpose-Crimping-Tool/dp/B004V9AROU (this is not a recommendation).
-
For this kind of connector I like this Wirefy crimper. It has flat jaws that doesn't damange the insulation.
https://www.amazon.es/Wirefy-Herramienta-conectores-eléctricos-herramienta/dp/B07GFXHH91
-
If it's just 4 of them, and I didn't have the proper crimper, I'd cut off the insulation, slip a piece of heat shrink tubing over the wire, solder the lug to the wire, then slide the heat shrink up and shrink it. Done.
-
Slightly off-topic, but still about wiring... I'm a big fan of Wago lever nuts to hold bare wires without lugs. Now if we could just talk power supply and SSR makers into using lever nut type terminals... I used a bunch of the 5 position Wagos in my printer's wiring to set up buses for 24VDC, line power, ground, etc. Want to add an LED strip to light up the print area? Just route the wires, strip the ends, snap them down. Very easy and reliable, they accommodate any wire size you're likely to use.
-
@mrehorstdmd, Wago are very popular in the Voron world and there are various 3D models for mounts for them.
On my printer I am using jumpered Dinkle Din rail posts with ferrules on the wire ends.
-
@mrehorstdmd I discovered last week that there are wago for connecting wires:
221-2411 and adapters "inline splicing connector" and there is a new things repository for wago https://wago-creators.com/I will probably use them to extend stepper wiring instead of Microfit (I still don't like crimping....).
-
@joergs5 That's a great link! I'll post my wire twister and maybe some of my printed mounts to it. Thanks!
Wago lever nuts are a great way to connect the wires to the bed heater and thermistor...
-
@joergs5, Wago are very popular in the Voron world but I think they are typically used for power connections. E.g. (not my printer):
Microfit has the advantage that they are compact, easier to connect/disconnect and reduce the chance of reconnecting incorrectly.
-
@zapta said in How i crimp those terminals?:
Microfit has the advantage that they are compact, easier to connect/disconnect and reduce the chance of reconnecting incorrectly.
those are valid arguments. I'll stay with wago however, because I still search connectors which can be assembled automated and Wago allow connecting without decision about the crimp system.
-
I'm trying Microfit now, does someone know how to crimp them? I would like to use PA-09/20/21, is this a suitable tool and which widths do I need?
I often destroy the crimp when I press it together, it bends very much or the wires "escape". Does someone have a hint for me?
-
@JoergS5, I highly recomand a good ratchet crimper. They give consistent results that don't depend how hard you press the crimper. I have very good experience with this one and use it for all my 3D crimp needs including microfit.
-
@zapta thank you for the recommendation, I'll try it. I regret every crimp I destroy.
-
@JoergS5 the big problem I find with Microfit is that it is very hard to remove crimp pins from shells without the official and very expensive removal tool. That's why we avoid them as far as possible. The only Duet3D product that uses them is the Smart Effector.
Duet WiFi hardware designer and firmware engineer
Please do not ask me for Duet support via PM or email, use the forum
http://www.escher3d.com, https://miscsolutions.wordpress.com -
@dc42 I know about the tool from discussion and I agree that it's high priced. It is nice how small the connectors are, supporting 8.5 A. I will use them for special cases.
-
@dc42, which removal tool are you talking about? The thing that is just a pin? It destroys the crimp terminal in order to do it's job.
Besides the difficulty removing pins, I find the microfit system to be very taxing on my brain - the female shells have male crimp pins. Bulkhead installation happens with the male pins (my brain says that if I plug something in, the female terminal is stationary and the thing I am plugging in is male. I have to sit down and really think when I am setting up a new connector because everything is ass-backwards (maybe the designer was British .... and yes, I know you are based in Britain ) -
@jens55, it's a challenge, each crimp needs to be perfect, like each downshift with a manual gear car.
For removal you need this tool or equivalent. It works for both male and female. You insert it from the front on the right and on the left of the pin and on each side turn it a little, right left, maybe 15 deg (?). You will not feel any change but the pin will come out when you pull it from the back. Microfit are definitely not as intuitive as the Duet's molex type connectors.
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/molex/0011030043/252489
And this picture shows the proper orientation of the pins, though you insert them from the back. It always confuses me.
