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    120 v. Heater upgrade

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    • ziggymanpopoundefined
      ziggymanpopo
      last edited by

      Hey there everyone !!
      So sometime ago I started to convert from a 12v
      Bed heater on a creality cr10-5s to a 120v 1000w unit.
      Well actually haven started the process quit yet
      I've got everything I need but wanted to check to 👀 see if someone could give me some insight
      Here are my concerns..
      First off the old bed heater is seriously underpowered.. the aluminum 2ft x2ft acts more like a heatsink than any thing else. surprisingly, the bed is fairly flat but takes almost 20 min. to heat up and I'm lucky to reach 70c
      Plans are to use a ssr. then, after that I'm just guessing. (Bad idea) !! I would think, so if switching to a 1000w 120v heater, will I warp the bed?? By applying to much heating power too quickly, orDr do I need to sw. To a dif. heating protocol in the g code?? Or am I OK with how it's set up now? Also if there is someone out there who has done this and already had and fix the pitfalls I might encounter. I k own that after the upgrade I will have to retune my p.i.d to avoid a heater fault and ha e that down.
      please feel free to chime in... any advice will be greatly appreciated. Thanks 😊

      jens55undefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • jens55undefined
        jens55 @ziggymanpopo
        last edited by

        @ziggymanpopo, I have a CR10-5S and use a 120V heater (although I believe it's more like 1200W). It works just fine except you still need a bit of time for everything to heat equalize.
        No, the bed does not 'warp' however there is a difference in dimensions from cold to hot. This would be reflected in a bed scan (do the scan at operating temperature or close to it I think I use 65C) . It will not damage anything and is perfectly normal.
        I have the underside of the print bed insulated somewhat to give better overall performance. My heating protocol is a tad different to compensate for the longer heat stabilization but that is strictly optional and is nothing to worry about at this point.
        Oh, my heater is a 500500 heater rather than the much smaller size of heater that comes with the CR10-5s. I did not trust the smaller footprint of the 'as built' setup to provide even heat. The underside of the print bed has strengthening bars - these were pulled, heater was placed and the bars were re-attached (over top of the heater). I wasn't entirely happy with doing things this way but I thought it to be better than running a 300300 heater on a 500*500 bed.
        Don't forget to hook up a ground wire to the bed and a thermal safety switch is also recommended.

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        • mrehorstdmdundefined
          mrehorstdmd
          last edited by mrehorstdmd

          This calculator gives pretty accurate estimates of the time required to heat the bed to a target temperature based on the bed construction and the heater power applied.

          A 600x600 mm aluminum bed will expand about 1mm in each direction when heated to 100C. That can put a lot of stress on the mounts unless they are designed to accommodate it. A kinematic mount allows the bed to expand without creating any stress on the mounts or the printer's frame.

          A thermal cut-out should usually be attached to the bed heater, not the bed plate, especially if you're using adhesive to hold the heater on the plate. Don't get a self-resetting cut-out and don't buy a no-spec part from China. Spend $1 to buy a fully speced part from a reputable manufacturer.

          https://drmrehorst.blogspot.com/

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          • ziggymanpopoundefined
            ziggymanpopo
            last edited by

            Missed the bit about the termal overload good idea and thanks for the temp calculator that will help. I was thinking best would be a bi-thermal with a reset button. That way it won't come back on when it starts to cool great ideas. Thank you. 😊

            jens55undefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • ziggymanpopoundefined ziggymanpopo marked this topic as a question
            • ziggymanpopoundefined ziggymanpopo has marked this topic as solved
            • jens55undefined
              jens55 @ziggymanpopo
              last edited by

              @ziggymanpopo, you might want to think about using a bi-metal anything. If you trip the thermal cutout switch you have a big problem somewhere and I wonder if it is a good idea to offer the user the possibility of just hitting the reset button.

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