Duet Wifi and CR-10
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ok the testing is over - the heatbreak just snapped.
when I pushed it I had plastic coming out at the top of the block
there was an unmarked and unknown nozzle in the block when I got it so when I removed that to replace it with a new know one I had to use LOT of force in a vice to move anything (even hot).
I think in the process I damaged the block as it certainly had marks from the force needed to get the old nozzle out - I have spares on the way but for now that puts any further testing on hold until they arrive
when they do i will start from scratch with all new parts.
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not wanting to let a lack of a hotend stop me I have been trying to calibrate and figure out the leveling side of things....
@deckingman you were spot on 420 steps/mm for the extruder.
I wonder if the heatbreak was cracked and dragging or had a burr inside but I will see what happens once I have the parts to build the hotend again.
I cant seem to get any of the leveling routines to work. I suspect this is something to do with the Precision piezo sensor I am using as while I can level the Z axis without problem if i try to use G29, G30, G32 they all return :
Error: Z probe already triggered at start of probing movehmm I have the Piezo wired in as a Z endstop not a probe and I just remembered there is a connector by the screen connector for this.....
as expected I think this will be yet another "user error" lol time to have another look at the instructions to see if I should have the piezo in the probe connection.
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@opentoideas said in Duet Wifi and CR-10:
not wanting to let a lack of a hotend stop me I have been trying to calibrate and figure out the leveling side of things....
@deckingman you were spot on 420 steps/mm for the extruder.
I wonder if the heatbreak was cracked and dragging or had a burr inside but I will see what happens once I have the parts to build the hotend again.
I cant seem to get any of the leveling routines to work. I suspect this is something to do with the Precision piezo sensor I am using as while I can level the Z axis without problem if i try to use G29, G30, G32 they all return :
Error: Z probe already triggered at start of probing movehmm I have the Piezo wired in as a Z endstop not a probe and I just remembered there is a connector by the screen connector for this.....
as expected I think this will be yet another "user error" lol time to have another look at the instructions to see if I should have the piezo in the probe connection.
The fact that you now have 420 steps per mm without the hot end indicates that there could well have been something like a crack or burr that was causing the issue. Once you get a new hot end fitted, if you then heat it and try to extrude by turning the turning the big gear with your fingers, it shouldn't be too difficult to push filament out of the nozzle (remember to power off the extruder stepper first though). I've become quite adept at using that technique to tell if something is amiss but of course, I have 5 extruders so it's easy to compare one with another.
Can't help with the auto levelling as I don't use any of that stuff - just "home and go" with a simple (but precision) switch.
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@deckingman thanks, well I moved the probe to the probe input and all is well (who would of thought LOL)
now I just need to make it work consistently. if I go too fast the drive motion sets it off. too slow and its not consistent when it touches down. I just cant seem to find any middle ground. to be fair I think its the machine rather than the probe but I need to do some work so the axis run a bit smoother.
oh well at least I am getting to grips with how it all works!
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The Titan Aero is a little fiddly to assemble. Make sure you follow the E3D assembly guide closely. Here are a few things I've learnt along the way about the Aero.
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The large and small gear alignment is critical for good performance. Their faces need to be flush, and to get the teeth to mesh smoothly you'll have to slightly adjust the body of the mount.
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The filament path isn't always properly aligned either, and you may need to adjust the position of the large gear on the shaft to get the filament lined up with the middle of the teeth. This can lead to under extrusion from slipping filament. The solution from E3D is to tap the gear further down the shaft. After doing that you'll need to adjust the position of the drive gear on the motor shaft to compensate. I also ended up having to add three 1mm precision shims on the motor shaft in between the heatsink and idler arm to keep the arm in alignment with the teeth.
Here's a picture of what I mean.
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The bearings in earlier versions of the Aero were prone to failure. Take a close look at them and if you see any leaking lubricant or rust they will need to be replaced.
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And finally, do not over tighten the screw that goes through the shaft of the large gear. It comes with an anti-vibration washer. Over tightening it even slightly is enough to damage the bearing and will cause poor extrusion eventually. Tight by hand only.
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If you do find failed bearings, you can request replacements from E3D, but it might not be a bad idea to just have a handful of MR95ZZ bearings on hand for convenience.
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@phaedrux .......Ahh, I so miss all those fun and games - which is all why I have no regrets about changing from Titans to Bondtceh BMGs
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@deckingman Yes it's been a long string of frustrations with the Aero. When it's working well though it works well. During my recent trouble shooting as you've seen in my other thread on Z banding I rechecked the aero bearings and found one has failed again. I don't think it's causing my banding issue, but it may be responsible for some other surface artifacts. I've had really bad luck with bearings.
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hmm wondering if the aero is worth persevering with any suggestions on more robust alternatives?
certainly the line up of the knurled drive wheel is rubbish. was looking at that and wondering about making an alteration. your picture shows it well that the drive wheel lines up with the filament path below but the clamping arm is out by a mile and has 5-6mm of float.
it was driving though as it wore a groove into the filament each time suggesting the tightness was further in but it is certainly worth some fettling while I have the time.
current fun has been greasing and running the Z up and down and the 2 problems I have found is the aftermarket leadscrew is as straight as a corkscrew and has notchiness right where a leveling operation would start...
next job will be to take it out, straighten it and put it in the other way up LOL
hopefully that may help
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Another vote for replacing Titans with Bondtech BMG. They are MUCH better.
Delta / Kossel printer fanatic
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Check my blog - as you'll see, I thought the Titans were pretty good (hence the reason I had 5 of them on my mixing hot end) but now I'm a convert to the Bondtechs.
and
and
https://somei3deas.wordpress.com/2018/06/29/putting-all-the-recent-upgrades-together/
If you watch the YouTube video that is embedded in the second blog post, you'll see just how easy they are to fit and take apart compared to the fiddly Titans.
Full disclosure - I initially had one BMG unit to test but was impressed enough to buy another 4. In the end, Martin Bondeus (Mr Bondtech) did me a really good deal but I would have paid full price for them (just that it would have taken me longer to save up). Other than that, I have no affiliation with Bondtech.
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@opentoideas the aero is quite good when it works. But it is a little finicky. Bondtech and a V6 seems to be the best alternative right now.
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@Phaedrux thank you,
looks nice will keep that in mind once I get everything sorted.
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@deckingman said in Duet Wifi and CR-10:
Can't help with the auto levelling as I don't use any of that stuff - just "home and go" with a simple (but precision) switch.
Thats enough for one night! I now have the probe working, consistent homing and a lot more knowledge of my machine.
while all of the rollers bearings run smoothly the quality is not great and a few had lateral play that was messing things up - obviously the defective ones were in positions where that particular issue was critical to repeatability. having swapped the poor ones to positions where that play wasn't an issue everything seems to be running fine.
I can now run the mesh grid and so on, now that I have probing that works but having just done it ,I realise, I need a lot more understanding as to what it's doing as it made a pretty picture but everything went a bit wonky.
plan for the morning spend some time carefully manually leveling then see if I can make sense of these fancy features.
I might have a decent grip on how it all works by the time I can print again!
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@dc42 said in Duet Wifi and CR-10:
5 repetitions is rather high. Do you find that the early ones consistently under-correct, and the following one makes smaller corrections in the same direction? If so then you can use the F parameter on the M671 command to speed up convergence.
I've reducing the friction on the z axis and the carriage is carrying extra weight (fans/ducts/z-probe) I get quite a bit of drop in the X axis (maybe 0.5mm) when stepper drive is removed. Sometimes it can take 3 or 4 passes to level.
Initially I went through a range of F values on M671 and found that F1.0 worked best converging the 2 points in my case.
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@danal said in Duet Wifi and CR-10:
Another vote for replacing Titans with Bondtech BMG. They are MUCH better.
Bondtech BMG here also. Very happy.
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have you done anything to change the bed mounting?
as my probe relies on contact with the bed even if it is light I am finding that the mounting of the bed is causing some issues.
in the middle the contact is spread between the 4 springs so is good, solid and repeatable
mid point of any edge is only supported by 2 springs so still fairly solid but less accurate.
at any corner however there is only one spring so its 4x more deflection for the same force than at the center and here the spring "cushions" the probe contact to the point that the triggering becomes unreliable.
I could crank the adjusters most of the way down to increase the pre tension on the springs or even solid mount the bed to remove the bounce but then I would lose the manual levelling and I don't think the machine is anywhere near precise enough to maintain the level and I don't know if I want to rely purely on the software levelling.
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well all day later and this is the result :
strange things I still have to figure out are why I need to home all first - then auto bed level compensation - then grid mesh compensation.
if I miss any step then the next one moves around with the probe at Z=0 which is not great
also after I run any of the auto routines, future Z homes are generating a cumulative error on the Z which seems to b the Z offset on the probe so the only way I can see is to reset the Duo and start again once any of the leveling routines have run.
that said I think this is as good as its going to get and barely outside the 0.1mm resolution I should expect from the probe so I am happy but what do you guys think?
oh yes, can I run the grid for information? it seems that I can only use it to compensate not just to check so while leveling I have had to do a ton of resets which has been a pain!
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@opentoideas said in Duet Wifi and CR-10:
also after I run any of the auto routines, future Z homes are generating a cumulative error on the Z which seems to b the Z offset on the probe so the only way I can see is to reset the Duo and start again once any of the leveling routines have run.
Which firmware version are you using? This sounds like a bug that was fixed recently.
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@opentoideas said in Duet Wifi and CR-10:
have you done anything to change the bed mounting?
I've added outrigger rails and replace the springs with 20mm aluminium standoffs to improve build plate stability.
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interesting, how did you support the bed on the outriggers? same wheels that CR-10 uses with a bracket?
I have given up on these wheels as on closer inspection I have found the bearings have a degree of end float and to be fair these type of bearings are not meant to have any lateral load on them (although as its so low with a 3D printer they get away with it to a degree)
between the flex in the head assembly and the play / flex in the bed mount I cant get any repeatability from the Z axis anywhere other than the center of the bed and even there the flex in the head carriage is an issue.
I have ordered a pile of MGN12 rails and while I wait will start making the brackets and other hardware as there seem to be most of the parts already out there.
it will be interesting to see how these turn out as they were cheap enough that they could be a good fix but with all cheap China copies the quality and amount of work needed will be interesting. many of the reports I have found suggest that with a bit of fettling prior to installation they can be made good and worst case I can mill any hardware if needed.
