Amps Tronxy X5SA
-
@jamesadoty there is a jumper, but i think you can only set the fans to either whatever the input voltage is or 5v. Fans are cheap too, i get them on amazon so I can return them if they don't perform like they're supposed to.
good idea on the plug, i should do that at somepoint...lol
-
That along with replacing my xy motor mounts with metal mounts from Open builds have been two of my favorite modifications. Of course installing the Duet 2Wifi board is my favorite modification.
I insulated the bottom of the heated bed which was my first modification.
I genuinely like my X5SA though in fairness it's not a great printer out of the box. But my X5SA came with great features, which I really like.
To digress a bit. I bought an Ender 3 just weeks after my X5SA arrived and it is without a doubt my favorite 3D printer to date. It will also end up with a Duet 2 Wifi board and seven inch LCD panel because I love them so.
Before I bought the X5SA I bought and was using a QU-BD Two Up. It was better than my first 3D printer but to make it capable of reliably producing good 3d prints it went through extensive changes and except for the top brace and the hot end mount is now devoid of horrible wooden parts.
Before the Two Up, I built a Prusa Mendal. It's a good and reliable printer but can't match the print quality of modern printers. Still it was a lot of fun to build and is reliable.
Oh, and shame upon shame, I have most of C bot built. I need to program the electronics and do something with the horrible z axis mechanics. It's nearly as big as my X5SA. A buddy of mine has been bugging me for a year to finish building it so that if nothing else, I can sell it.
I'm well of topic, I'll stop that now.
After payday I'll investigate switching my X5SA to 24 volts. I need to work out the heated bed, I expect I'll need to find a combination of solder pads that give me full coverage on the heater and has about 1.5 ohms of impedance. My bed draws 16 amps at 12 volts so it's wired for 0.75ohms currently. I'll need a 15 amp 24 volt power supply, three new fans, and a 24 volt hot end. I expect it'll cost less than $100 to make the changes.
-
actually, you answered some of my unasked questions with the off-topic lol. Ive been seriously considering getting a tronxy x5st-500 to add to my collection and minimize the large stuff that needs to be printed on my delta... it has effector tilt issues that id need to buy more parts to fix and im tired of throwing money at it. I want something BIG, sturdy (the 500 uses 4040 and 2040 rails) and that can print at least the non visible stuff at at least 100mm/s, and i want to be able to enclose it easily so i cant print PC
-
Although I think the Tronxy electronics are pretty weak, and that includes the power supply, mechanically it's a good printer.
I forgot to mention it, but I replaced the belts and my print quality improved a lot.
It should be relatively easy to enclose the X5ST-500. My buddy Clint is after me to enclose my X5SA. I'm seriously considering it after I upgrade to 24 volts.
-
@xsivspd I can say that the X5S-500 I received has a 24v 21a power supply. I've done several upgrades to it and still have some more to do but I think it's a solid base for a printer its size. Another option I may have gone with is contacting ZYLTech and having them upscale their 400x400x500 kit to 500x500x600. I had contacted them and they were receptive but I had already ordered the TronXY.
-
@tletourneau said in Amps Tronxy X5SA:
ZYLTech
That shouldn't be too hard. Ten parts? four extruded aluminum vrails, four smooth rods, and two drive screws.
That's one of the things I really like about corexy printers, changing their height is easy.
-
How do you like the 500? I'm about ready to purchase and still can't find any real reviews.
Anything you've changed or want to change? How stable is it?
Thanks!
-
Reviving a dead topic here but couple of you have or have had a Tronxy at the least. I just bought a Tronxy X5ST-500 couple of weeks ago and received it last friday.
I bought it knowing it would need upgrades but all the reviews on it were 1 to 2 years old.
Aside from belts, hotend, extruder what more do I need or is that good enough?
Obviously since I'm here posting I'm curious about a duet board as an upgrade as well but that might be a hurdle I need a lot of help with.
Thanks
-
You may want to re-wire the bed heater for 24v.
Don't know if yours is different but mine came with the three terminal option and markings showing connections for either 12v or 24v. I kept everything else 12v. The bed heat up time is greatly improved now.
Also I converted both the X and Y carriages to accept concentric adjusters so that every bit of play in those areas can be eliminated.
Lastly, I mounted a 5mm thick high quality aluminium plate on top of the bed, converted it two a three screw system and coated the bed with Printbite (which is a fantastic product).
I am now producing really good prints.
-
@EzeE said in Amps Tronxy X5SA:
but that might be a hurdle I need a lot of help with.
Well you've come to the right place. We're all here to help.
If you'd like to see what kind of work is needed for a total conversion to a Duet board, see this guide series. https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Guide/Ender+3+Pro+and+Duet+Maestro+Guide+Part+1:+Wiring/37?lang=en
-
@EzeE said in Amps Tronxy X5SA:
Obviously since I'm here posting I'm curious about a duet board as an upgrade as well but that might be a hurdle I need a lot of help with.
I upgraded mine first with duet 2 ethernet and now its running on Duet 3 with SBC so
if you decide to go for the upgrade I can give you loads of help. -
Here's what I've done to mine:
Duet 2 Ethernet
Duex 5
7" PanelDue
500x500x9.5mm ATP-5 Cast Aluminum tooling plate with three screw leveling (may change now that I have triple Z axis)
Wham Bam Magnetic Build Plate
Triple Z Axis (3-92 oz.in. 2.1 amp motors) with 12x2MM single start lead screws and 12mm linear rods (still trying to figure out if I need the rods or not)
Linear Rails for X and Y
E3D Hemera
MOSFET for hot end
1000w Keenovo with SSR for heat bed
dc42 Mini IR Sensor or BLTouch
Aluminum bracing at all corners for rigidity -
Just got my a Duet 2 Wifi today.
Extruder, Hotend on order and a supposedly anti stretch fiber re-enforced belt.
So my unit came with a few "upgrades" then previous versions.
The Power supply has 24v for the heater (assumption on my part is 24v already doesn't need upgrade?) might obviously be wrong.
Biggest issue I think I am going to have now is there is a 32 pin (IDE style/looking) ribbon cable going from the front to the back breakout board that controls the x-motor, extruder, and filliment run out and hotend. Y motor has a separate cable going from control board to the motor so odd to me.
Maybe I'll be able to buy cables already made to get rid of the ribbon cable?
Looking at @TLeTourneau list gives me more ideas to look into.
-
I bought my Tronxy X5SA-Pro 500 and it has the same ribbon cable from the back to the front. I'm putting a Duet 3 on it, so i'll be stripping wires and re-crimping a lot. I don't think i'll use the ribbon cable. What did you end up doing?