Confirmation prior to purchase. CR-10 compatibility.

  • Having done lots of reading, I am about to buy a new board for my CR-10, can anyone tell me if my current stock components are compatible?

    Stepper motors : I am guessing these will be fine.

    Extruder/ hot end : These have been replaced with a genuine Titan Aero so I am guessing this will be one of the easier bits to confirm.

    The bit I am most uncertain of is the heated bed and temp sensor, Creality has only just decided to go open source, so finding definitive specs isn't easy, but it appears to be a 12v 220watt bed, the temp sensor is unknown (to me at least)

    I suppose the real question is, will I be able to just wire in my bed heater and temp sensor directly? The bed is currently run from a Mosfet board (two thin gauge signal wires from the main board and a direct connection to the power supply.)
    Will I need to replace this, or do away with it all together?


    Thanks for any guidance or install tips.


  • Hi. I dont have CR-10, but from your post 12V 220W bed heater will draw almost 20A, so its abit too much to connect directly. However you can still use mosfet, just connect those thin signal wires to heater connector on Duet and you will be fine. Temp sensor can be connected to Duet directly of course, but i reccomend to find out first what type and parameters this sensor is.

  • This is exactly the kind of advice I was hoping for. I believe the bed sensor to be a pt100? Thank you.

  • I did convert a CR20. I used the values from the Marlin firmware i had found from the company. I think that is the way. I dont think you will have much of a problem with components. It is not like you are changing the psu.

  • @gpetropoulos No, for me at the moment, there doesn't seem to be much of a benefit in going to 24v, the structure of the machine will probably be the weakest link when I try to turn up the speeds. I'll save the 24v conversion for when I build a corexy.

  • I installed a maestro in my cr-10, the only problem is that due to the relatively high inductance of the motors mine came with, it's noisy in spreadcycle, not a problem with duet wifi/ethernet.
    As far as I remember the only weird thing during install was that the 12864 screen has the notch backwards, so check the pinout if you are not using a paneldue, again not a problem with wifi/ethernet.
    You can use the Mosfet board without problems, since you are opening it, you could add Thermal paste to the Mosfet, mine came without it.
    Edit: there is an adapter in thingiverse to mount the board inside the stock control box, it's not perfect, but it works.

  • @genghisnico13 Thanks for the reassurance on the existing mosfet board.

    Being honest, I don't know what spreadcycle is all about, I have heard of the terminology as well as stealthchop, but I don't know enough about it to know if that will be a problem for me. In terms of mounting the board, I have already got rid of the main box and got everything tucked underneath, so I can adapt that easily.

    I am not sure if I will do anything with the screen yet, I currently run octoprint, so getting rid of the LCD will just slim things down a little more.

  • Hi,

    doing the "same" conversion with a duet maestro this week. Can you share your experience so far for the transition?


  • @jellyfinger said in Confirmation prior to purchase. CR-10 compatibility.:

    bed sensor to be a pt100?

    to use PT100 you need extra PT100 board. but for the bed, PT100 is useless - temperature stability within the bed itself is way less than PT100 accuracy. use standard Chinese sensor. it is enough.

  • I just converted my CR-10S which is just a bigger version of the CR-10. Still nailing down some little things but it's pretty straightforward, if a bit of work.

    For the Bed - they used a standard thermistor on it, it's not a PT100 (unless it's a brand new machine and they did something weird recently). As @dc42 says, use the standard thermistor, the Configuration tool default setting works fine.

    If you plan on doing real high temp stuff like nylon or Polycarbonate, etc. you might replace the thermistor in the hotend with a PT100 or PT1000. The PT100 is more accurate but more of a PITA as it requires an amplifier board (sensor has very low signal) and really should be wired with a 4 wire shielded cable rather than the current 2 wires you have.

    The reason for the change is the standard thermistor doesn't really have the accuracy at those high temps, it's at the end of it's range. It's a bit of a safety issue as well, but again, only if you plan real high temp stuff over about 260°C.

    I went with the PT1000 as it's almost as good as the PT100 but plug and play, especially if you go with a Maestro board, it's setup for it.

    The configuration part is the tricky part as the G-Code setup is pretty different than Marlin, but it makes a lot of sense and it really flexible, but be prepared to learn. 😉

    I agree with @genghisnico13 - take the time to put some thermal compound on that MOSFET.

    Octoprint - I imagine you can use it still, but I think you might take a look at Duet Web Control, it's how most people control it. Here's a link to the Manual: DWC

    I have all the motor info if you get stuck when configuring, and there's a bunch of other Creality people hanging around here.

    The screen - You can also use a tablet or laptop for Duet Web Control.

    It will be an adventure, but you'll have a big smile when you get it running, it's head and shoulders above the Marlin setup.

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