Choosing a suitable power supply
wilriker last edited by
I recently put a kinematic mount and new bed in SoM and mounted the TCO on the heater using a blob of high temperature silicone. That's the safer way to do it, I think.
That's also the way how Keenovo does it if you order the heater with a TCO. Or actually they put it under another layer of silicone but that's essentially the same.
Phaedrux last edited by
@mrehorstdmd Right. Good warning. Was that with the 3M adhesive sheets or was it bonded with RTV silicone? I can't remember. I've bonded my heater pad with RTV silicone, that should last a lot longer than a sticker sheet. I remember seeing your post about the PEI sheet lifting when the 3M sheet lost it's bond.
Hi, could you elaborate regarding RTV Silicone ? I am suspicious about adhesives and would be interested to know more. Do you by any chance have a link to a product ?
Phaedrux last edited by Phaedrux
I used this: https://www.amazon.ca/Rutland-600-Degree-Silicone-2-7-Ounce-Super/dp/B004YEBWTG/ref=sr_1_34?crid=1ESRUA3CQI4NP&keywords=rtv+silicone&qid=1552499348&s=gateway&sprefix=rtv+sil%2Caps%2C171&sr=8-34
But there are many options and types. It's also called gasket maker.
I cleaned both the aluminum and heating pad thoroughly, then applied a thin layer of the silicone, then used a rolling pin to slowly roll on the pad. Added a bead around the edges of the pad to seal them in, and then placed it on a flat surface with a flat board over it and several rolls of filament on top to press it down. Left it to cure for a day. It's been going fine for about a year of daily use.
You can see pictures of it in the link in my signature.
mrehorstdmd last edited by
@phaedrux I used the adhesive that came on the Keenovo heater- it's 3M 468MP. It holds with temperature cycling for about 2 years then seems to dry out and let go.
@snoozer You can get high temperature silicone at auto parts stores for about $5-6 for a tube.
I figured out by now RTV is an abbreviation lol, I thought its a brand so. Have found a number of brands and types...... Thanks for the responses however !
Phaedrux last edited by
@snoozer room temperature vulcanization is a mouthful.
pedromelim last edited by
@snoozer im gonna use a spare e3d v6.1 i think...the ones used on the original prusa...got a spare one hehe
After much thought and some more research, i decided to go 24v instead of mains (220v).
For both safety and the simplicity of everything.
The RSP-500-24 will do just fine, as i found that is used on the lulzbot taz 6wich used a silicone heated bed rated at 360w.
The heated bed will probably be the same as the taz 6.
Difference in price from one way to the other is around 25€ and i much prefer paying a bit extra for the simplicity of the system.
Tks everyone for the input on the matter.
After much reading and a bunch of good an plausible advice I also give a silicone heater under a substantial aluminium plate a go. I stay with 230 AC, I am qualified electrician (in a former life) so no worries about mains. Did you order the V-Core including the printed parts ? the hotend mount is designed for a v6 I think. I have spend all last WE to make a Titan Aero mount, only done it in PLA with little infill as test. Still don't have the kit to put it on actually. I like to have it detachable and keep the belt tensioner attached. I split the mount. Intend to be able to manually change between hotends and also service it easy. Maybe able to use a laser as well.......... that's for future.
PuterPro last edited by PuterPro
I split the mount. Intend to be able to manually change between hotends and also service it easy.
I did a rework of this mount, in Fusion 360: E3D V6 Hinged Extruder Bracket & Clamp for my little Monoprice Select v2. It's pretty kludgy so I didn't post my rework, but I have all the wires on plugs and can change the v6 clone on it in about 30 seconds. (Went with genuine v6 Gold for my CR-10S)
Kinda cool to have a hinge.
@pedromelim - Good luck with your project, keep us posted!