Hi, want to share some news

I changed my PSU to Meanwell LRS 450w - it fits (35 mm height is good for FFCP)
I installed creality 40w 24v heater catridges
And I still had vdd brownouts after that. Though the board restarted and showed the error every time. So it was another issue.

Recently I got used to checking all the cables. And I had a guess that something is wrong with my extruder motors. Because it was only during the print that a printer would give a vdd brownout error and restart. So I checked my stepper motors cables and it turned out all that time I also had loose connections on my stepper drivers So I recrimped them. And that time I also had a "pull test" of my cables while holding multimeter and checking the resistance.

I hope now I'll be able to continue refining my config and help dc42 with debugging

I fried my first board I guess.
New board is working fine

Hi, again, today I overcame my fear and started to crimp.

All in all for FFCP you need to crimp

• all four fans 1.board fan 2. cooler fan 3.extruder 1 fan 4. extruder 2 fan
• five stepper motors
• 3 end stop switches (x/y/z)
• hotbed thermistor 4 pin to 2
• LED strip because the board uses 3pin connector for that instead of 4 pin, but I am not yet sure that the original LED strip is supported

Today I crimped stepper motors and 2 endstops
Stepper motors are easy to crimp, because you only have to check the right order of the cables.
Endstops have 4 pins, but you have to use a 5 pin connector and use only three pins out of them, because Big Dipper/Duet has only one ground. I crimped both grounds together, but if that's wrong please point it out before I plug it in)

I used these two schemes for that
https://www.geeetech.com/wiki/index.php/Mighty_Board#Interface_Layout
https://wiki.fysetc.com/BIG-DIPPER/#3d-model

and I only needed xh2.54 connectors, thanks for the advice @Exerqtor

Crimping process is a new thing for me, so I had to watch some videos to undestand the idea)

For those like me, in a few words, you have to use a crimper tool like SN-2549 and squeeze the tail leaving the front part with a locklng tab intact. Also the idea is to squeeze the tail to fix the cable insulation, so the exposed part of the conductor shouldn't be too long. But I have yet to check my crimping skills, after I finish that process.

Also I accidentaly damaged end stop cable, because I thought it was a bad cable, but it turned out I am the one who is bad at electronics) I guess they make a special GND cable without insulation to take off interference from y and z axis of endstops. For some reason x endstop cable uses another shielding and there is no exposed wires there. So i ripped z axis cable apart and now I am waiting for a new one from ali.

In the meantime I'll finish with other components.

I also checked my adapter design for the Big Dipper
It is ok, but I will have to use only 3 out of 5 screws, because some holes are below the board and the board might touch the screws.
Also I guess I'll have to turn the board in such a way that stepper driver chips are not directly in the line of sight of the board fan. But I think the space between the board and the case would be enough to ensure some airflow. Also I think to add heat sinks, although FYSETC says that they are not necessary.

I also ordered an extender for type-c, to make access to the board easier.
As far as WiFi is concerned, I don't want to make holes, so I'll try to design a holder that will be placed on top of the holes for old reset button and mightyboard data port. But for that i will need to start printing, so it'll have to wait)

Finally it is working
Though I need to adjust tool offsets a bit more
And I also had to change the cooling fan number in cura settings for every extruder to the pin number of the fan (in my case fan #3)
And I need to try dual extruder printing

Thank you all who helped me achieve this.
Hope my story will help somebody)

I'll publish my design for the Big Dipper holder and my configs a bit later.

@jay_s_uk Hi, thank you, I updated my config file, and if I encounter HardFault again I will definitely write back

I installed the default 320w psu and now it seems to work without any extra sounds

An update about hardware:

• The old board was damaged for sure. I don't know how it's called, but something is wrong with how the 5v power is interpreted. When I connect it to USB it shows 1.1v. I use a replacement now.
• I installed the bltouch and it's working perfectly fine. Though I was concerned that it is glowing red and not violet
• I had to reconfigure my thermistors using multimeter, because the resistance values from the docs were wrong. And I was overheating my hotend. It was 270 instead of 230
• ordered an accelerometer supported by duet, will have to design a holder and set it up if I have the time and energy to do that)

Some words about 3d printing troubles)

• Had a lot of trouble printing PETG. Reassembled extruders and changed nozzles several times.
• For now printing 40mms but maybe later I'll try to use input shaping and pressure advance, though on small parts I am not sure that my printer can accelerate faster
• Had holes in my prints. I blame clogs and a bad petf tube. Also 60mms seems to be too high for small models

As for petg it seems that I need to lower flow value in cura. Standard esun petg profile is not working. Thought it might be moisture, bought a dryer, but it didn't help for PETG. Lowering line width and flow seems to help a bit.

I am glad I did that upgrade. Learnt a lot about printing and electronics. And the printer is silent enough that I am sure no neighbor hears it.
Auto bed levelling is a miracle
Wifi interface is a miracle. I need only to push one button to turn my printer on and then I can just sit and control it from distance.
This upgrade made my printer usable at home and a lot more convenient to use.
I learnt a lot and I am in total control of my printer now
Thanks for your help and attention)

An update about hardware:

• The old board was damaged for sure. I don't know how it's called, but something is wrong with how the 5v power is interpreted. When I connect it to USB it shows 1.1v. I use a replacement now.
• I installed the bltouch and it's working perfectly fine. Though I was concerned that it is glowing red and not violet
• I had to reconfigure my thermistors using multimeter, because the resistance values from the docs were wrong. And I was overheating my hotend. It was 270 instead of 230
• ordered an accelerometer supported by duet, will have to design a holder and set it up if I have the time and energy to do that)

Some words about 3d printing troubles)

• Had a lot of trouble printing PETG. Reassembled extruders and changed nozzles several times.
• For now printing 40mms but maybe later I'll try to use input shaping and pressure advance, though on small parts I am not sure that my printer can accelerate faster
• Had holes in my prints. I blame clogs and a bad petf tube. Also 60mms seems to be too high for small models

As for petg it seems that I need to lower flow value in cura. Standard esun petg profile is not working. Thought it might be moisture, bought a dryer, but it didn't help for PETG. Lowering line width and flow seems to help a bit.

I am glad I did that upgrade. Learnt a lot about printing and electronics. And the printer is silent enough that I am sure no neighbor hears it.
Auto bed levelling is a miracle
Wifi interface is a miracle. I need only to push one button to turn my printer on and then I can just sit and control it from distance.
This upgrade made my printer usable at home and a lot more convenient to use.
I learnt a lot and I am in total control of my printer now
Thanks for your help and attention)

Hi, is there a working solution for ERCF? The GitHub at the start of this thread seems abandoned

It will be great to stick to RRF & DWC, but if it's not supported in future it might be a reason to switch to klipper

I fried my first board I guess.
New board is working fine

But that was not the end of the story...

Spoiler: I fixed it

So I noticed several things about my printer and here is the list of what I noticed and done to my printer

• First of all, my SD card was corrupted several times. And I ordered an industrial SD card as it is recommended in the docs. It works fine. I had no issues with that.
• I noticed that my extruder fan is too loud and I thought it might help to replace it. It did help to reduce the noise though.
• I had to replace my new thermistors because I had a clog and I damaged them while removing the clog
• While removing the clog I noticed that my grounding cable was loose and I fixed it better
• Then I thought something is wrong with my stepper motors config and I found out a lot about their tuning process. And in the process I even made my printer work without bed heating and low motor currents. I also found out that I like how silent is the stealthchop, especially for Z axis.
• I measured the current of my bed with a clamp meter and it is about 8-9 A, so it's 200w
• I found the config here for duet 2 wifi config
• I found out why I might have problems with my stepper motors. Because there is only one man who tried using duet 3 mini 5+ on this forum that I know of. And TMC2209 have to be configured.
• I noticed that z axis motor is producing a very loud hissing sound in standstill spreadcycle mode
• I removed another loose grounding cable near the sd card.

And after all that I was lost. The only thing I had in mind was to replace the board.

• while setting up a new board I had to reflash the firmware several times, because it was always busy with something. So if I closed up the connection and had to change something in it again it won't connect to my mac until I push the reset button two times and upload the .uf file to the bootloader

And changing the board helped. I might have damaged the old one with a short.
I also took a precaution and removed another screw that was underneath the board.

The one thing that I noticed right away is that the voltage shown by the new board is higher
And I also had some hard faults on the way, but for now I just want to rest a bit)

I'll post my config some time in the future when I am sure it produces the best results, but for the most part I use the one mentioned earlier from github + my settings to enable spreadCycle almost for every move except standstill.

@gloomyandy Hi
It's a Fysetc Big Dipper board

M122
=== Diagnostics ===
RepRapFirmware for Duet 3 Mini 5+ version 3.5.3 (2024-09-18 11:25:48) running on Duet 3 Mini5plus WiFi (standalone mode)
Board ID: RHYS5-6J9MK-K65J0-40TK2-JRW2Z-ZLX8A
Used output buffers: 3 of 40 (18 max)
=== RTOS ===
Static ram: 103368
Dynamic ram: 121884 of which 12 recycled
Never used RAM 16484, free system stack 202 words
Tasks: NETWORK(2,nWait 7,12.1%,217) HEAT(3,nWait 1,0.0%,335) Move(4,nWait 6,0.0%,355) CanReceiv(6,nWait 1,0.0%,939) CanSender(5,nWait 7,0.0%,336) CanClock(7,delaying,0.0%,339) TMC(4,nWait 6,1.4%,110) MAIN(1,running,84.8%,651) IDLE(0,ready,0.9%,29) AIN(4,delaying,0.8%,263), total 100.0%
Owned mutexes: WiFi(NETWORK)
=== Platform ===
Last reset 00:00:22 ago, cause: Vdd brownout
Last software reset at 2024-10-24 17:04, reason: User, Gcodes spinning, available RAM 13464, slot 1
Software reset code 0x0003 HFSR 0x00000000 CFSR 0x00000000 ICSR 0x00000000 BFAR 0xe000ed38 SP 0x00000000 Task MAIN Freestk 0 n/a
Error status: 0x00
MCU revision 3, ADC conversions started 17648, completed 17647, timed out 0, errs 0
MCU temperature: min 33.3, current 34.0, max 34.4
Supply voltage: min 23.9, current 24.1, max 24.1, under voltage events: 0, over voltage events: 0, power good: yes
Heap OK, handles allocated/used 0/0, heap memory allocated/used/recyclable 0/0/0, gc cycles 0
Events: 0 queued, 0 completed
Driver 0: standstill, SG min 0, read errors 0, write errors 0, ifcnt 11, reads 2055, writes 11, timeouts 0, DMA errors 0, CC errors 0
Driver 1: standstill, SG min 0, read errors 0, write errors 0, ifcnt 11, reads 2055, writes 11, timeouts 0, DMA errors 0, CC errors 0
Driver 2: standstill, SG min 0, read errors 0, write errors 0, ifcnt 10, reads 2056, writes 10, timeouts 0, DMA errors 0, CC errors 0
Driver 3: standstill, SG min 0, read errors 0, write errors 0, ifcnt 10, reads 2056, writes 10, timeouts 0, DMA errors 0, CC errors 0
Driver 4: standstill, SG min 0, read errors 0, write errors 0, ifcnt 10, reads 2056, writes 10, timeouts 0, DMA errors 0, CC errors 0
Driver 5: standstill, SG min 0, read errors 0, write errors 0, ifcnt 11, reads 2055, writes 11, timeouts 0, DMA errors 0, CC errors 0
Driver 6: standstill, SG min 0, read errors 0, write errors 0, ifcnt 10, reads 2056, writes 10, timeouts 0, DMA errors 0, CC errors 0
Date/time: 2024-10-24 17:13:08
Cache data hit count 43616670
Slowest loop: 4.59ms; fastest: 0.16ms
=== Storage ===
Free file entries: 20
SD card 0 detected, interface speed: 22.5MBytes/sec
SD card longest read time 0.7ms, write time 0.0ms, max retries 0
=== Move ===
DMs created 83, segments created 0, maxWait 0ms, bed compensation in use: none, height map offset 0.000, max steps late 0, min interval 0, bad calcs 0, ebfmin 0.00, ebfmax 0.00
no step interrupt scheduled
Moves shaped first try 0, on retry 0, too short 0, wrong shape 0, maybepossible 0
=== DDARing 0 ===
Scheduled moves 0, completed 0, hiccups 0, stepErrors 0, LaErrors 0, Underruns [0, 0, 0], CDDA state -1
=== DDARing 1 ===
Scheduled moves 0, completed 0, hiccups 0, stepErrors 0, LaErrors 0, Underruns [0, 0, 0], CDDA state -1
=== Heat ===
Bed heaters 0 -1 -1 -1, chamber heaters -1 -1 -1 -1, ordering errs 0
=== GCodes ===
Movement locks held by null, null
HTTP is idle in state(s) 0
Telnet is idle in state(s) 0
File is idle in state(s) 0
USB is idle in state(s) 0
Aux is idle in state(s) 0
Trigger is idle in state(s) 0
Queue is idle in state(s) 0
LCD is idle in state(s) 0
SBC is idle in state(s) 0
Daemon is idle in state(s) 0
Aux2 is idle in state(s) 0
Autopause is idle in state(s) 0
File2 is idle in state(s) 0
Queue2 is idle in state(s) 0
Q0 segments left 0, axes/extruders owned 0x0000000
Code queue 0 is empty
Q1 segments left 0, axes/extruders owned 0x0000000
Code queue 1 is empty
=== CAN ===
Messages queued 205, received 0, lost 0, errs 108148, boc 0
Longest wait 0ms for reply type 0, peak Tx sync delay 0, free buffers 26 (min 26), ts 115/0/0
Tx timeouts 0,0,114,0,0,89 last cancelled message type 30 dest 127
=== Network ===
Slowest loop: 4.43ms; fastest: 0.00ms
Responder states: MQTT(0) HTTP(0) HTTP(0) HTTP(0) HTTP(0) FTP(0) Telnet(0)
HTTP sessions: 1 of 8
=== WiFi ===
Interface state: active
Module is connected to access point 
Failed messages: pending 0, notrdy 0, noresp 0
Firmware version 2.1.0
MAC address 08:3a:8d:eb:24:44
Module reset reason: Power up, Vcc 3.38, flash size 2097152, free heap 42924
WiFi IP address 192.168.1.69
Signal strength -47dBm, channel 7, mode 802.11n, reconnections 0
Clock register 00002001
Socket states: 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

You didn't answer my question though)
I also want to debug this problem, but for now I can't understand what to look for exactly.
As far as I understand brownout means that the power was lost
Though the voltage is fine
The 450w PSU for FFCP should be fine
I checked my wiring lots of times now and I did find a lot of mistakes
If I have something wrong it's not obvious for me at all

This thing happens to the printer after a few minutes of printing
If I restart it happens almost at the same time

Hi, can you help me understand when a board gives a vdd brownout error?
What triggers this event?
What sensors this event is based on?

Hi, want to share some news

I changed my PSU to Meanwell LRS 450w - it fits (35 mm height is good for FFCP)
I installed creality 40w 24v heater catridges
And I still had vdd brownouts after that. Though the board restarted and showed the error every time. So it was another issue.

Recently I got used to checking all the cables. And I had a guess that something is wrong with my extruder motors. Because it was only during the print that a printer would give a vdd brownout error and restart. So I checked my stepper motors cables and it turned out all that time I also had loose connections on my stepper drivers So I recrimped them. And that time I also had a "pull test" of my cables while holding multimeter and checking the resistance.

I hope now I'll be able to continue refining my config and help dc42 with debugging

@infiniteloop Thank you for your thoughts, I think that I use all of your advice, but I lack experience, so I can't be as good as you before I get some experience)

My strategy is "try and fail, but do not stop".
I've learnt a lot about my printer in a month) If I were too afraid to change the config or hardware I would do nothing and just throw my printer away.

The thing that I lack about the DWC is git.
It would be great to have a VCS for configs.
But I can always create a repository myself

Where do these figures come from?

Here is the tuning discussion, I used this number for E jerk on purpose
https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/6181/tuning-macros-menus-accel-jerk-retraction-pressure-advance/18?_=1728802639093

guys are saying that E jerk should be high enough so that it doesn't "cap the X and Y jerk values for a print move"

All units are mm/min, so why should Z be limited to 12 mm per minute(!)

That comes from the config generator, I didn't change that because Z axis seem fine.

This line carries no comment,

The one for the Extruders has it. I lost the one for axes when copied the config here

separate entries for axes and extruders.

that is also how the generator creates a config today

@infiniteloop

but how can you explain the failure on the right?

The config I posted is for the left print
The fact is that low jerk and acceleration settings helped achieve a good result

@infiniteloop

But didn't you tell me that the PSU never turns off? Or did I misunderstand something? In this context, you also mentioned some LEDs never going off …

I meant that when there was a shutdown, nothing happened to the PSU, it was the board that stopped working

At first, before I grounded the board, I witnessed the board shutdown and turn off wifi. The lights near 5v switch were blinking with no pattern. But the 24v power LEDs didn't show any signs of trouble.

All that is in the past now, after I removed the screw

Learn where to draw the line between RRF and Cura:

That's actually a nice thing to mention. I think that the Printer Settings plugin makes things a bit more difficult)
I'll have to check what it does, besides the setting that I set for firmware rectraction when I explored tuning tutorial yesterday

I have to take care of my dog and some other stuff, but then, we'll deal with your config.g. CU

Nice of you to put so much energy into helping me, but please keep balance and take care of your dog)