Hi all, I will try to make this as brief and to the point as I can.

I have a large format printer, bed size is 610x610. It is heated with the appropriate sized silicone heater and is 240v. Where I am in need of guidance is the bed has 3 thermocouples fitted to it, one is for diagnostics. It makes sense to have multiple sensors on such a large bed but I can't figure out how to get the duet2 to accept both and I suppose take an average. I have the thermocouple daughterboard and although it has both sensors connected it is only operating off one. Not even sure what I am asking can be done, bu any help would be much appreciated.

Thanks for the replies.

As a point of interest there was a third option I was playing around with. The heating is divided up into 3 sections (front, center & rear) each section has it's own heating wire pair and a thermocouple. This would give me the option to heat smaller areas if required. The things that discouraged me from this is A. more components, more to go wrong. B. can the controller handle balancing 2 or 3 zones adequately. C. when one or two zones are used the dormant zone might become a heat sponge.
If anyone has any input on this it would be much appreciated.

Thanks again

Depending on the travel length and desired print speed lead screws or ball screws may suffer whip. Unless of course you compensate by increasing the diameter, which in turn increases weight & load on the drive motor to change direction. A balancing act for sure.

One possible suggestion for passing belt drive through the sealed enclosure might be a thru axle. Please excuse my rough pic

You get the idea tho

Well....this is gonna hurt. I did it! It was my fault. When I disassembled the module from the back of the display I realized I had forgotten to fit the 3v jumper. After installing the jumper I left the printer on for the day, ran a couple of prints and no issues. Considering the purpose of the jumper I guess I should consider myself lucky, didn't fry the screen.

Anyway, figured accept responsibility for my error and post it so I may save someone else the issues

@oliof Yeah I figured that was going to be the best answer. Thanks for the reply

Magnetic print surface arrived today, looks good except for the damaged corner from shipping. It was packaged well so I guess one of the handlers thought it was a giant frizbee

Once I get this straightened out (no pun intended) I have a decision to make, which I would appreciate any advice. Right now I have an 8mm aluminium bed with a buildtak surface on. The buidtak surface is in good condition except a small chip which I normally dodge in the slicer. Can't decide if I should say goodbye to the buildtak surface and apply the magnetic sticker directly to the aluminium plate or attach it to a piece of glass. Any thoughts?

Thanks in advance

Well....this is gonna hurt. I did it! It was my fault. When I disassembled the module from the back of the display I realized I had forgotten to fit the 3v jumper. After installing the jumper I left the printer on for the day, ran a couple of prints and no issues. Considering the purpose of the jumper I guess I should consider myself lucky, didn't fry the screen.

Anyway, figured accept responsibility for my error and post it so I may save someone else the issues

@Phaedrux Thanks for the reply. Is there any particular part of the board you want to see?

Hi all, I am currently having an odd issue with my 7" paneldue. Quite often, and for no apparent reason, the display goes black. This has happened on initial boot up, sitting idle for a short period of time and part way through a print. So no rhyme nor reason to its behavior.
I have also noticed when the display goes black the buttons and audible confirmations are still active. To get the display active again I have to cycle the power off & on, sometime a couple of times. If I see the splash screen I know we're good.

Current firmware:

It's the earlier 7" panel with separate module that plugs into the back. Current panel firmware is 1.24

Any help would be much appreciated as this is becoming quite frustrating

@Corexy 500x500 seems not TOO hard to find, even Wham Bam has a 500 available. Over that is a PITA to find anything for, especially if you don't want to pay $500

@Corexy As soon as I have a chance to test it I will update the post. Options seem to be pretty limited for larger format printers at the moment. Kind of a case of take what you can get.

@fcwilt Is this last map done at printing temp?

@fcwilt Considering the height map shows front left, front right & rear right pretty much level I wouldn't imagine this to be a result of the rear left adjustment. Winding the rear left to compensate would drop the front right. You mentioned the 3 adjustment points are near perfect, everything outside of those areas can't be adjusted without adversely effecting somewhere else. So if you are showing a dip in the rear left corner without a countering rise in the front right I would say there is a dip. One thing I have noticed is the height map seems a little exaggerated. This might be a minor dip in reality.

My bad, I should have been clearer when I said checked it manually. I mean with a paper test or dial indicator if you have one.

It looks like you have set it to check only 4 points, while this is fine for initial 'course' setting. You're best results will come from selecting more points. The purpose of generating the height map is to give mesh compensation an idea of your bed's levelness as well as overall flatness at a given temperature.

Was this map generated at printing temp? Things can change at different temperature settings.

Have you checked it manually to confirm?

Are your first layers printing good?