Best posts made by antlestxp

https://youtu.be/pYNwgpBxzKA <- 50mms? print on carbon rails with igus bushings with stealthchop

https://youtu.be/DWFjq-QLerY <- on nippon bushings still stealthchop

nope. you can use a step down regulator for your 12v fans but the hotend must use a 24v cart. You will nuke your 12v cart on 24v and you can't use a step down on it.

this would be nice to see working again so I can avoid the location of the magnets I have under my PCB bed.

i have seen the tronXY in person. its not a bad printer to get started with but you will end up replacing bearings and printing some upgraded parts to increase rigidity. with your budget it might be easier to scratch build something like a hypercube. there is a good amount of documentation to get you started and a pretty good community behind them. i have a 30x30x30 and absolutely love it. your biggest hurdle will be getting the printed parts unless you have a printer already you can use. 500x 500 shouldn't an issue with 10mm rails any bigger and you will need to find a more ridged motion system if you plan on printing quickly. you can find build instructions and the base set of parts on thingiverse. there is also a facebook group.

There are 2 error states for the bltouch. a rapid flash is a mechanical issue. either the magnet is out of place when retracted or there is an issue with it moving. there is a a slower red flash that is for a wiring or connection error. either its wired wrong or it detects a random short. this is for the v2 v2.1 as far as i know.

do your axis move freely with out the motors attached? i run my corexy at 850 with no skipped steps. the motors stay cool to the touch. you may just have too much mechanical resistance. that will heat up the motors along with the need of high current.

I'm not ashamed to say the TriangleLabs bmg clones work the same as the originals. I bought the clone to see how I would like them. Then bought the originals to support the company that actually put in the RnD. Sorry to say they print exactly the same. I will always say support genuine products but if cost is a limiting factor, majority of the stuff coming out of trianglelabs is top notch. Side note, the TL e3d titan clones are actually better than the original e3d products.

Ok guys, a conclusion. I found I was chasing 2 issues. Issue 1, yes the mosfet is bad. I removed it and tested it. It gave me no love. Like someone said b4, these usually fail hot no open. Kinda strange but oh well. Issue 2, the back up heater cart I used was also bad. A while back I had one stop working and instead of throwing it away I kept it to figure out why it wasn't working.

Thanks for the help. Truly appreciate it!

I'm thinking about going back to dual extrusion. I had it working when I was on Marlin but wasn't ready to try and figure out how to get the duet working and trouble shoot multi printing. Would you be willing to share your dual config files. It would give me a head start.

is there a way to swap out the layer chart for the web cam feed?

is it strange that I am eagerly looking forward to replace my perfectly functional maestro?

sweet thanks

I will add that you will need to make sure you have enough room at the bottom to allow what ever configured dive height just in case you power down at the end of travel. I had my printer set to drop the bed at the end of a print once and after a power cycle the homing pushed the bed down further than it wanted. In the case of a maestro using a bltouch for the Zmin is it still impossible to have a zmax switch?

awe man... i hate to admit my issue was mechanical after all... I must have knocked one of the z leads off center doing the board install. I stripped the z axis down, clean, lubed and the next print was flawless. hopefully @Haggan90 your problem is as simple as an alignment issue as well.