Posts made by BikingViking

Interesting, it's reasonable price for such a large size, Lokbuild and the like get expensive at larger sizes, might have to give it a go, thank you both.

Awesome, thanks David, it's one of those thing that is certainly worth a punt on long prints where quality isn't crucial.

Maybe this should be in firmware wish list, but I was wondering if there were some trick to do this already.

So overnight I was printing a large variable power supply enclosure and the nozzle must have met some resistance, as the Capricorn bowden tube had forced itself out of the extruder despite the retaining clip (I wish the outside wasn't quite as slippery as the inside). My office was nicely decorated with filament.

Despite this, what had been printed was fine, so if I could find the exact layer height at which it failed, it should be possible to restart the print, sure with artefacts, but I could clean it up afterwards. I could try and do this from the slicer and output a new file, tweak some settings to coax the printer into starting at the right height. It would be nice if there was some sort of macro/gcode console command to easily restart the print from a specific point, is there such a thing already? When you've been printing for 48 hours using x amount of filament, these failures are hard to swallow as I'm sure we've all experienced…

(Another wish list item for future hardware/firmware... possibility for a macro that could jog the print head to specific point on model > calculate where in the gcode this position/height is > go to xy home > heat up, wipe nozzle > start printing from specified point)

Thanks, is that specifically polyetherimide? Sorta wanted to see what all the fuss is about.

Shit luck, I keep a few female to male single dupont leads around for just that reason, didn't stop me shorting the board against a brass standoff though, lapse of concentration, brain fart > zzzt

If it makes you feel any better, a week or so ago I shorted a PanelDue 7i during a firmware update and fried the board, waiting for the last smd to attempt a repair, I did a good job it though, won't do something like that again…

Hi folks, I want to try PEI for my new printer, but all the UK sources seem to do a maximum of CR-10 size of 12"x12". My print bed will be in the region of 400x400, I generally don't mind ordering from China if there is some believable feedback on quality, but I've heard quite a few stories of textured polycarbonate being sold as PEI. As I intend to print polycarbonate, that could potentially end badly. So I was wondering if anyone had experience with sourcing oversized PEI in the UK or possibly EU, and what is the recommended thickness to go for? I'd like to mount it on some flexible magnetic steel sheet ideally.

Food for thought, you've got me thinking now actually (sorry for the hijack Zakfarias, but might be relevant to your build too) I've got a fair bit of 4mm aluminium sheet, with 4 brass stand offs in a nema17 pattern might make a quick and dirty idler sandwich.

I'm throwing 4kgs around without any problems. Nema 17s at 1.8Amps so on that basis, Nema23s at 2.4Amps looks like overkill but hey…......

That's encouraging! Overkill is a bit par for the course for me tbh, but I also have some loose plans to chuck my Foredom toolshaft around with it eventually, possibly as a 3D print finishing experiment. Anyways, I like OP's idea of a tooling plate sandwich, as I understand it, the Railcore guys have been struggling with bending bolts on the pulleys over time as well as movement in the threads, though I guess it's a general corexy issue, relatively high torques involved.

I got 450x480 8mm here, https://www.clickmetal.co.uk/click-by-category/plate/aluminium-tooling-plate , I must say it was impressively flat, but I haven't had a chance to cut it to final dimensions and use it in anger yet as I'm still mulling over design details.

BTW, I am planning to attempt E3D style tool changing with two direct drive aquas, I am using 2.8A Nema23s though which I hope to run at 2.4A. I am prepared for it to be less than ideal to have that much mass moving around and the strain it will put on the rest of the printer, but nothing ventured and all that..

Count me in for one or ten David!

I have used pause resume without problems when I have caught it. I am considering some future load cell based filament run out detection and warning, maybe combined with a Y splitter, ambitions are nothing without the time, willpower and resources to see it through though

Cool beans, thanks for the info, I've been planning to make a cnc router with a spare mks board, but I guess a third Duet isn't far away…

Great, wish I was half as productive as you guys, don't know how you keep it up!

Yes exactly, it seems a lot of us are using the Noctua 12v/5v pwm fans, would simplify setup a fair bit, and probably lighten the fan related support you guys have to do.

I know David already touched on this being an extra cost in terms of having to provide voltage conversion, but I think it would be a step in the right direction in terms of making 3D printing more user friendly which is one of the Duet strengths. Being able to just buy off the shelf fans and even extension cables if you so wish, without any faffing would be a huge boon I think.

Awesome job, in the middle of doing something very similar, I'm using 3mm dibond sheets, is that what you've used for the opaque areas? (Edit: I see you've actually painted or vinyled the clear part, nice solution!) Would love to see a tutorial style writeup or video or even just source of the interface between the esp and duet as I'm looking to implement coloured status cues in the LED strips I'm using for internal illumination.

Have you considered making the next hardware release split into two or more models? One basic and one maxed out with all the possible bells and whistles? Seems anecdotally that the Duet brand is becoming really strong in the market place though I have no evidence to base the feasibility of this approach of course.

Right, thanks David, in theory though, could you as part of a tool changing macro switch off stepper current, switch the relay, then reactivate the (new) stepper reasonably safely? I understand from what you're saying that this would be reasonably redundant (along with my bank balance) with the arrival of the next generation.