Hardware wishlist

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  Main/Expansion board 5v power suggestion
  • gtj0  

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  @T3P3Tony said in Main/Expansion board 5v power suggestion: @gtj0 the 5V disable on expansion was to allow for turning elements of for EMI testing on the prototypes. don't feed 5V into that. Nah, I wasn't planning to feed 5v there. I don't see the wiring diagram for the expansion board so I was really wondering if that disabled the 5v regulator and might allow us to feed 5v via another pin. Its a good point about not having an external 5V supply. for low current only applications it might be possible to do as you suggest and send power down the 1&6 connectors on the RJ11 but we don't plan to currently. Just a thought for the future. @dc42 said in Main/Expansion board 5v power suggestion: What would be the purpose of keeping the expansion boards powered with 5V? And what is the purpose of turning off VIN power but keeping 5V? Same as for the mainboard. Keep the electronics hot but save power by turning off Vin. Also for letting the kinematics "freewheel" it's easier to do a M81/M80 or click a button on the DWC than issue an M18, then a zero move to start them again. And for keeping the sensors active of course. Without Vin on the expansion board, you'd lose its temps, endstops, etc.but you'd still have them on the mainboard. Oh yeah, you can't update firmware without Vin on the expansion board but you can on the mainboard.
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  Current Chopper for Heater bed?
  • DocTrucker  

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  One final comment on faster heatup - go 120V AC. I did and I love it! Of course you need to replace the heating pad and you need a relay (SSR recommendedl) and an over temp fuse is recommended. With a Creality CR10 the warm up time was excessive and maximum temp was limited to about 60C if I recall correctly. It took something like 30 minutes to get there ! I now enjoy heatup to 60C in maybe 2 minutes. Waiting drove me insane before the upgrade. You can run an SSR directly from the old heater output that used to power the 12V bed. Good luck!
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  Linear optical encoders for closed loop
  • Timberstar  

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  This is very much on our radar, and is one of the reasons why we don't have an external stepper expansion board for Duet 3 yet. It's not as easy as it sounds, because at 3D printer speeds and resolutions the quadrature signals arrive at quite high frequencies, so it's not practical to use the main microcontroller to capture them using ordinary pin inputs.
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  Coupling multiple Duet 3
  • JoergS5  

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  @JoergS5 Yes but that does not need to happen in real time, just around about the same time.
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  Duet2 SPI and DSF
  • gtj0  

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  @T3P3Tony said in Duet2 SPI and DSF: @gtj0 might work - would be cool to try but would need RRF hacking and we probably wont do anything about it internally anytime soon due to other firmware priorities. I may give it a shot over the next week or so.
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  Suggestion for next Duet3 board revision
  • gtj0  

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  CAN-FD hardware
  • JoergS5  

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  @Kulitorum will be emailing those who expressed an interest in the prototype boards after TCT show next week (you are on the list!)
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  CNC style Pendant
  • Rob  

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  Yes i'll share soon
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  Duet 3 expansion board stepper driver thermal tests
  • dc42  

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  @evan38109 said in Duet 3 expansion board stepper driver thermal tests: I admit that the Duet3 is getting pretty exciting to me. I've been modding my Prusa MK3s and starting to hit the limits of what I can do with the EINSY. This guy, though... Do you have any particular reason to put Duet 3 on that though? I feel like Duet Maestro is a better fit for the most part. The regular Duet2 is more capable than most desktop users need. The biggest thing I want is direct support for 4 wire fans. Even though my bigger machine can use a little more motor current, it works pretty well at 2.4A.
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  4 conductor cable for the Panel Due
  • bondus  

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  Best IMO is to remove the pins from the connector shell at one end (easy with the Molex KK connectors); then hand-twist the 4 wires around each other without imparting a twist to the individual wires; then re-insert them in the shell. If you twist the cable with the shells in place, then the individual wires have to twist, and then they will tend to un-twist the cable. For stepper motor cables, I prefer to twist the two wire in each phase around each other; then loosely twist the two pairs around each other. This minimises magnetically induced EMI.
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  PCB layout not ideal
  • nophead  

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  @zapta Yeah. The cost of a panel due was hard to justify. However, as an industrial maintenance technician, I can whip up a control panel out of recycled parts in no time.
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  Duet 3 expansion board proposal: heater controller array
  • JRDM  

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  jrdm@, this may interest you, 1200x1200mm printer. Description has a link to thingiverse. He uses 4 silicon pads. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4qjv9yPHOv8
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  Converted Ultimaker 2+ to Duet Wifi - Interface to UM2 LCD?
  paneldue lcd controller ultimaker aesthetics rotary control knob • • lowracer  

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  @lowracer said in Converted Ultimaker 2+ to Duet Wifi - Interface to UM2 LCD?: ... my son remarked, the aesthetics of the machine are spoiled if you don't have the stock LCD working... Not exactly what you are looking for but I am using the paneldue as a tether device. That is, it's not attached mechanically to the printer and when I want to use it I pick it up and use. This way you can keep the original look of your printer (though non working display). It may also be ergonomic considering the small and non slanted screen of the UM2.
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  Maestro V1.1 with TMC2209
  • Veti  

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  you are right. however the difference is just the packages.
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  "Backup" for 12V systems if powerloss?
  • Exerqtor  

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  @puterpro said in "Backup" for 12V systems if powerloss?: @PlasticMetal - Those are sweet units! Wish I has room for one. Well, I certainly don't have them in a rack. One is on a metal shelf (restaurant-style wire shelves, plenty of air circulation), & the unused one is over in a corner.
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  Fillament-thickness sensor
  • nikscha  

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  Work with one and rotate the assembly around the filament using a spare stepper drive, or perhaps target that as stage 2 of the testing. Read up on the laser filament monitor tests and get some of the filaments that caused large variations or problems with them. How are you planning to verify your system? I've found the experimental noise on the weight of small test parts to be significant. Solving under and over extrusion issues is a great aim but filament diameter is one part of the puzzle which other projects are also working on such as the magnetic filament monitors towted potential capability to automatically calibrate non linear extrusion. I'm tackling calibration process issues myself this week and have decided to test setting my extrusion multiplier to 1 then adjusting the filament diameter to correct wall size, adjust extrusion multiplier over a sequence of solid 20*20mm test coupons, and finally tackle offset and scaling issues. This is before taking pressure advance, retraction settings, and extrusion correction in any detail. Setting the temperature has been far too vague for my liking so far and mucks up other calibrations when I've had to change it later on. Edit: I'll know I've got things nailed when a causal observer can't accurately tell what machine a test part has come from. I feel a coke/pepsi style test with some dissinteredted family members coming up!
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  temperature sensor on smart effector board
  • c310  

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  This came up a few days ago: https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/9309/dc42-just-thought/3
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  DC42 Just thought
  • rodek  

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  @rodek said in DC42 Just thought: What is the release date of the Duet3 and smart tool board? Not fixed yet. The second generation Duet 3 main board prototypes are currently being assembled. The smart tool board specification is still being discussed with potential OEM customers.
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  Stepper motor current
  • Ringo1508  

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  @dc42 so awesome! Thank you! I understand now. My Duet 2 Wifi should be on it's way sometime soon. Cannot wait!
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  Thinking about using Duet for new build, but have questions
  • Ringo1508  

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  @ringo1508 said in Thinking about using Duet for new build, but have questions: I also want to experiment with printing taller (in the case of RC planes, being able to print a larger portion with less work after the fact.) Delta printers are good for printing tall parts. But are you sure that you want tall parts, not longer parts? Think carefully about which way you want the layers to run, to get maximum strength in the directions where you need it.