Would anyone have, or be able to point me towards, a configuration file for an Ender 5. I am looking to fit a BL Touch and an E3D V6 hotend, but I can figure those out from the standard machine.

Thanks

It is with great pleasure that I can inform fellow forum members that the printer is now functioning as expected. Setting the endstops to active high at the low end did indeed do the trick.

For reference the endstop LED’s are on and go off when the switches are activated.

Many thanks one and all for your input.

This is working pretty well on my Ender 5, still playing with the settings but had some nice prints from it.

Points to note, I am using a geared extruder and a none Creality stepper motor on the X carriage. If you load the .json file into RR configurator, make changes to suit your setup you should at least be up and running.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1b1Gn-cnLB-sOeeHe4wOwwzi_YWfRM7oO
[0_1557268102482_config.zip](Uploading 100%)

Thanks for the replies. In the end I decided to buy a ferrule crimper kit (cheapo from Amazon). One size, marked E7508 20AWG was the perfect fit after being crimped and no need for any trimming of wires, well pleased.

Finally reached the stage where I want to install a BLTouch Smart V2 and I wondered if you guys would cast your eyes over the attached pictures to make sure I’m not doing anything stupid.

Also, in the RRF config tool it says “Make sure you change it to use +3.3V instead of +5V before you connect it or you risk damaging your board!”

However on the dozuki.com page which it links to it says “The Z probe input on the Duet 2 Maestro and Duet 2 WiFi/Ethernet rev 1.04 and later is 30V tolerant, so it doesn't matter whether you reduce the output of the BLTouch to 3.3V or leave it at 5V.”

Which is correct??

Any other comments appreciated before I throw the switch!!!

Cracked it!!

Well, lots of tuning to do but fans working, heaters working, print head and bed moving around as smooth as can be. And quite, did I mention quite, whhhhisper quiet!!!

I can go to bed now it’s only 05:00am

Before I go, have a look at this guy on Youtube, his video was of immense help.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6nqddfxHla0

Well done Duet, a great product.

Having some problems setting up this Duet Wifi board on a Creality Ender 5.

This is my second board, the previous, up to the point of fitting a BLTouch, was no problem, ran through the RFF config tool and all went well, even managed a couple of prints. On this occasion I cannot get the printer to home (using the same settings as previous).

The printer is trying to home after clicking "home all", but is only moving in around 5 to 10mm jerks in all directions. Repeatedly pressing this will eventually get the print head to home on the Z axis but only close on the X and Y, then stops.

I tried the "home all test" macro and the Z axis took off at a horrendous rate, luckily I was able to switch the printer off before any inevitable damage to the printer was done.

Any help appreciated.

A little bit of ringing (think that's what they call it) to take care of, but overall very happy.

Thanks, that's the reason I'm being cautious, 5v rail disintegrated last time (warranty replacement).

Finally reached the stage where I want to install a BLTouch Smart V2 and I wondered if you guys would cast your eyes over the attached pictures to make sure I’m not doing anything stupid.

Also, in the RRF config tool it says “Make sure you change it to use +3.3V instead of +5V before you connect it or you risk damaging your board!”

However on the dozuki.com page which it links to it says “The Z probe input on the Duet 2 Maestro and Duet 2 WiFi/Ethernet rev 1.04 and later is 30V tolerant, so it doesn't matter whether you reduce the output of the BLTouch to 3.3V or leave it at 5V.”

Which is correct??

Any other comments appreciated before I throw the switch!!!

A little bit of ringing (think that's what they call it) to take care of, but overall very happy.

This is working pretty well on my Ender 5, still playing with the settings but had some nice prints from it.

Points to note, I am using a geared extruder and a none Creality stepper motor on the X carriage. If you load the .json file into RR configurator, make changes to suit your setup you should at least be up and running.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1b1Gn-cnLB-sOeeHe4wOwwzi_YWfRM7oO
[0_1557268102482_config.zip](Uploading 100%)

It is with great pleasure that I can inform fellow forum members that the printer is now functioning as expected. Setting the endstops to active high at the low end did indeed do the trick.

For reference the endstop LED’s are on and go off when the switches are activated.

Many thanks one and all for your input.

Thanks, not worried about the Z probe yet, just want to get the printer running.

M119 is producing a comment of "Not Stopped" on X,Y and Z axis.......also on Z probe, which I did not set up???

Should I go ahead with Active High at low end?

Sorry, just to be clear, do you mean switch the endstops from “Active Low (NO)” to “Active High (NC)” in the RRF config tool?

Or should I switch the wires over on the connectors?

David, thanks I'll do that first when I get back from lunch.

Excellent, thanks, I'll do that later today and report back.

I haven’t ran an M119 yet (print head won’t reach the endstops). The endstop LED’s are lit up and go out when I depress each endstop switch - does that sound correct?