Q1: Yes, just plug the 2nd stepper into any unused driver. Making sure you assign that driver to the Z axis, just like you have done in your config file. I cannot comment on others, but on Duet WiFi, make sure you put the jumpers back on the 2nd Z port.

Q2: Your config file is correct, however, your bed.g isn't. Since you are using 2 lead screws, your S# should be S2.

After you fix the bed, run G32, which will level the Z axis like you want. Run it again, and see if the difference gets bigger. If it does, you need to switch your M671 locations. So instead of X-15:215 put X215:-15 and swap the Y also.

Q3: I run M32 in my homez and homeall Z sections. Do this before setting the home location, that way the adjustment doesn't affect your Z home location.

@dc42 said in Independent Z Motors, leveling until acceptable deviation?:

It's not supported yet,but it's in the firmware wish list.

Awesome. Thanks for the quick response.

I am trying to speed up my print start times, and just make things a little more efficient. Such as not heating the hotend until it's closer to time to print, rather than 10 minutes before while it does it's probing, leveling, etc.

My questions is, is there a way to setup the independent Z leveling so that it continues to probe the points in my bed.g file until the deviation is lower than a set amount?

I'd like to set it to probe until deviation is less than or equal to 0.01, as I frequently print at 0.05mm layer heights.

Basically I want similar to the Z probe setting, where it continues to probe until it's close but on the multiple Z motors bed leveling.

@c310:

i tried to generate g-code and than manually upload it to duet.
my issue is - generated gcode makes printer crazy (moves are not following the model at all..)

on the other hand my slic3r works…. i have copied settings from slic3r printer startup gcode to simplify3d and selected delta printer, but it did not help.
i guess there is some kind of setting im missing...

This isn't related to controlling a heated chamber. You would have better luck making a new post and asking for help there.

@c310:

@coffman34:

… into Simplify3d?

i was trying to make Simplify3D to work with duetWiFi but no luck….

may i ask you to share your settings?
many thanks!

What issue are you having? Are you trying to connect Simplify3D directly to the Duet? If so, I do not use it this way. I slice my gcode, then upload it to the web control page.

Ok. After updating to the newest 1.21RC3 it broke again. I had to revert back to the old way of doing it. However, this time I changed the starting script.

I left in the new temperature controller "Chamber Temperature" and instead of manually setting the temp in the starting script, my M141 commands looks like this:

[[language]]
M141 S[extruder1_temperature]

So, when the chamber temperature, which is set to tool1, is set, it will auto insert in that temperature into the starting script to start the chamber heater.

I have a SSR that controls an AC heat gun that is placed inside my chamber. I did have to cut the power cable and splice it into the SSR. But I'm fairly comfortable wiring mains wires. It holds temp very well.

Do try to get your motors and other electronics outside the chamber if you're going to actively heat it. I can only run mine at about 40C before the motors get to hot, and the heat creep causes PLA to clog. Running ABS at 40C has no issues with heat creep.

I was finally able to get this working.

First I had to remove the M141 H2 line from the config.g file to prevent duplicate items on the DWC.

Then I simply created a new tool using M563 P1 H2. P# is the tool number to use, and H2 is the heater control that is connected to my chamber relay.

Then inside Simplify3D I added a temperature controller, using T1 as the tool, with the name Chamber Heater.

Now when I set the temperature on the chamber heater, it will control the temperature of the chamber correctly.

Any recommendations on some with small IR elements? I had a hard enough time deciding to get these.

I can re-print a mount that can hold the filament more centered. I'll let you know if that helps.

I understand that it says you should replace some resistors. I just can't figure out by looking at the board which resistor it should be. There are two on the back, labeled R1 & R2. Then there is one on the front that is closer to the plug. All have different writing on them.

After doing some more digging. I think it's the R1 that is the 180ohm resistor, and should be replaced with 100 ohm, and R2 should be replaced with the 10k ohm resistor. It appears the resistor on the front is for the LED.

I bought some optical sensors from Amazon, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0719K9Z9R/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 After discussing with the seller if they would work with 3.3v. Of course, they don't appear to be working very well.

I can trigger them with a piece of paper, but they're not detecting the filament very well. The light barely dims, and small movements make it fault and pause the print.

I have tried adding a 10k resistor between the signal and the 3.3v in at the connector on the Duet.

Should I look at replacing another resistor on the board? If so, would you be able to advise which one? I believe it may be R1 that's on the rear in the picture. But don't know how to be sure which one I need to replace.