Posts made by darkstarone

Tried moving the wire to a spare set in the bundle and still experiencing the same issue. If the 2nd thermistor is disconnected, there is no short triggered.

@dc42 Here is what I have

@dc42 I'd have to double check, but they were purchased within probably the last 6-9 months from Filastruder so I'd hope they were the newer ones. I believe my config is setup for the newer ones, but not seeing any capacitors on it. I'll upload a picture of what I've got a bit later today.

I did another test in which I swapped the problematic thermocouple to the other input on the daughterboard, and it does the same thing. I did the same test on the other known good cable (both inputs tested) and it seems to work fine. This must be some sort of short as indicated by the error message but I cannot locate it anywhere visible or with a multimeter. The wiring has solid continuity when tested with a multimeter. The cabling is a continuous flex Igus with 24 wires in it, twisted pair all the way down to DIN mounted breakout terminal. I tried replacing the cable to the problematic thermistor on the other side of the breakout terminal with new wiring, and moved completely away from the extruder wiring. Unless there's a break/cut internally in the flex cable somewhere that's making contact, I'm having trouble locating the cause.

I'm using a thermocouple board purchased from Filastruder:

https://www.filastruder.com/products/temperature-sensor-boards-for-duet?variant=31621167044

The thermocouple wiring for the first hotend runs down the same bundle and path as the secondary, and works 100% rock solid with no fluctuations. It is completely unaffected by movement of the primary or secondary extruder motor.

Hello,

I've been troubleshooting an issue in which the second extruder temp sensor on my machine reads completely fine, except when the opposite extruder motor engages (printing or just extruding filament). I have replaced all the wiring from the daughter-board to the thermistor, and even replaced the thermistor to ensure it's not shorting on the block or something like that. All insulation and wiring is clean and new.

When the extruder engages, the temp instantly reads 2000C and the duet complains about short to other wiring after the sensor read fault.

Any ideas what could be causing that?

@dc42 Firmware version is 2.02(RTOS) (2018-12-24b1) and confirmed once more just to be sure there is no resurrect.g created. It is created as expected when manually pausing a print.

@phaedrux The module is actually currently disconnected and not in use since I converted to duet.

@dc42 It does not automatically save no. I believe the capacitor bank is so large that it supplies a constant 24v until the bitter end and drops out too quickly. I would probably have to wire it directly to the board or utilize the 5v power to the board to make it work I'm assuming.

@dc42 Sorry for just getting back to this now. This is my configuration (just basic for now per the wiki):

M911 S21.0 R23.0 P"M913 X0 Y0 G91 M83 G1 Z3 E-5 F1000"

Is using an endstop a feature at this stage?

@dc42 Thanks for the information. Even though the heating element is on a different circuit, it seems that it can still have an effect due to the shared neutral.

@dc42 Thanks for that detailed information here as well as the other thread, this is why I buy duet boards and will continue to do so for all of my machines in the future. For now, we are going to try just leaving the blower fan on at a really low subtle speed and see if that's enough to get away with using bang bang on the heating element and not cause the thermal expansion or banding in the prints. If not then we'll explore this route.

@mrehorstdmd Thanks for the confirmation. I have a feeling the banding is maybe caused by the blower being too powerful and blasting hot air all over the print, really fast. So I'm going to experiment with leaving the fan under the duet's control separately and leave it on a really low speed so it's a gentle breeze. Maybe the temp swing won't be enough to play with the prints.

I've observed this on both ABS and ASA filaments.

No it does not, but we can order one if that is a valid option, thanks for checking the datasheet.

All of the lights in our shop and other lights on other circuits. Does not occur whatsoever in bang-bang mode. It seems to pulsate in tandem with the frequency when we change it, it visible to the eye.

@phaedrux I did try this on a very wide range and unfortunately none of them seemed to help. I've actually just disconnected the blower fan from the SSR and wired it up as "Fan 2" on the duet and leaving it set to about 10% all the time, and put the heating element on bang-bang, will see how this works out.

@sonderzug How stable is the chamber temp in your machine like this, how much does the temp fluctuate in there?

@mrehorstdmd Interesting post. I have a similar printer that has a setup like this from the factory. It's a creatbot D600 Pro.

I am finding that the blower fan is far too powerful on bang-bang mode and it causes banding in my prints. When I PID tune the chamber heater (which triggers the blower fan just like your setup) it works really well and the temp is super stable and prints look great.

This however causes the lights throughout my entire home to "pulse" or "flicker", I wouldn't consider it a dimming. Have you seen this behavior at all with your setup or are you getting by with bang-bang mode fine?

I've seen this reported quite commonly with beer brewing kits that use heating elements with PID control and cause lights to flicker, but I'm still uncertain what the fix is.

Can the duet toggle an SSR such as this https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Crydom/MCPC4850D?qs=%2Fha2pyFadug3rif9%252BRZld2Q4qtEC9h3DIP4ENu%252BkFGk%3D

Which expects an analog control voltage signal?

I'm trying to look for a proportional control SSR to control a heater inside of the chamber of a large machine which is causing some light flickering when in PID mode. I'm thinking this is better suited to the heating element load and may help. My understanding is that an SSR with built in snubber will not help with a resistive load.

Thanks