@dc42 Just confirmed.
D0 is dead, D1 works.
Thanks for helping me to get running as I wait for your further direction on who to contact for the replacement board.
Thanks for the info.
I'll change me config.g and see if I can get that to work before replacing the board so I can fully and decisively identify what is, and is not functioning on the board.
It definitely is your genuine one. I'm not a fan of Chinese knock-offs.
If you re-read my OP, I had swapped cables with my Y Stepper and the problem followed the Duet2 port. I also swapped steppers and the problem followed the Duet2 port.
As I purchased this through Spool3D Canada on April 09, 2019, do I contact them for a replacement?
I had a nozzle clog last week.
After clearing the clog by replacing the throat and nozzle at the heater block with new ones, I then went to test everything.
It all worked for about 2 minutes then, I went to retract and only heard a single click from my E0 extruder motor.
I tried to Extract and got no response from the motor.
No smoke happened or anything.
Next I swapped the extruder motor wiring with my Y-Axis wiring and found the extruder motor works fine and the Y-Axis motor did that single click with no further responses.
The problem followed the motor end of the cable.
I then swapped them back and swapped the board end of the cables.
The problem followed the boards ports.
In summary, my E0 motor plug on my Duet2 Wifi is fried - no idea how it happened.
Upon close (magnifying glass close) inspection, the board has no signs of burning and nothing crossing any of the conductive paths or solder points.
My config.g has this motor addressed as M569 P3 S1
I tried to set it to M569 P4 S1, but hat hung my board.
How can I switch over to use my E1 motor port on my board?
Looking at it now, the driver chip is shared between the E0 and E1 stepper motor ports. Correct?
If that chip is fried, I'd rather not trust my soldering skills to replace it (or any other chip on this board to be honest). How can I troubleshoot this down to the chip that is at fault (1 only have a digital multimeter)?
@theruleslawyer When you mention the screenprint. If you mean what you see in the images on AliExpress, those are the original Duet3D board images that people are using instead of displaying images of their own boards.
This is the AliExpress equivalent of "click-bate" and one of the reasons I (personally) never buy there - you never know what you will actually get from AliExpress.
I only ever bought an electronics board from ALiExpress once and what I got was not only a different and extremely inferior product, but not even the same color as what they presented in their product page.
The specs. they provided were "sparse" and failed to mention they were accurate, meaning what they did not tell you - actually did not exist - this excluded things like inline fuses for critical circuits and any voltage protection on-board. These are features that, when missing, can kill either the board or even you in the end.
Beyond those critical things, AliExpress is too legally distant for us to have any enforceable buyers rights as well so when you buy from them, it's always at your own peril.
@the-doc I never buy from China. This is specifically why I always buy from official channels.
As I've said many times here and in other forums; my reasons for buying from official channels:
I would flip the cost to return the Chinese junk (send it back on the slowest / cheapest boat you can find) and get an original.
@pauljsr I agree with @Veti .
Sounds like your tempurature is too high or to low for the type of filament you're using.
I also understand the response from @chas2706 , but in your case, it seems pretty consistent "gets stuck after a few layers" which tells me there is a cool-down happening in your hotend. A few layers, based on a similar print size, would have this effect.
@dc42 Sorry for the delayed response. My son was married over the weekend.
My thoughts are the same as yours. Is How would I test the output voltage of the Duet2 WiFi for this specific setup?
@fcwilt Sorry for the late reply. My son got married over the weekend.
Using the ferrals on the Duet2 WiFi board, they all work great. I crimp the ferrals 3 times to ensure they get a very small inside diameter and they fit nice and tight over the posts. I can actually pick up the board by grabbing any single wire and they do not come loose or come off.
Given this, however, it is still a temporary job so I'm only doing this until I get the exact right solution with better JST crimpers.
As for the ferrals going into the green blocks, same thing, but I also flatten those a bit then let the clamps squeeze them down.
@fcwilt I use similar.
Yes, I'm aware the wire gauges for thermistors and such are 26AWG (usually) and most other wiring is 24AWG (fans and steppers for example) with the exception of PSU wires.
Too late to return it and it is useful for other things around the house.
What I've settled with (for the interm) is using ferrels with my other crimper designed for them. I even got some ferrels to crimp wires 2 wires together. Works great, but not my end game.
The crimper I bought: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07M8G5R34/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The wire joiners I bought: https://spool3d.ca/ferrules-for-joining-wires-pack-of-10/
I bought 2 packs of these.
This is also where I bought my Duet2 WiFi and PanelDue 7
@fcwilt I have strippers already and I agree the tool head of my crimper does not look right.
As with many here, I have lots of crimping and stripping tools. My favorite striping tool is actually a very old one I got when working with Telco companies in the U.S.
What I'm really seeking is 1 tool that will meet my 3 criteria because as I'm getting older, my eye-site and manual dexterity are getting worse.
This is much like my good-ol' favorite wire stripper: https://www.tenaquip.com/product/klein-tools-compact-wire-strippers-cutters-1003-tj950?gclid=Cj0KCQjwkoDmBRCcARIsAG3xzl-MXiTSYMqHqhu7HroV0T7j5hSn00PgdRmhN2ijze64RkRrIKYkDQcaAqksEALw_wcB
that I can still use for the next couple years at least.
@fcwilt This is the tool I picked up on Amazon a few months past.
It has the proper profile you describe, but I find it sucks at crimping even the dupont connectors it comes with.
I'm trying to find a crimper that:
So I look at all this as take the right advice - so following this thread to find the "best" solution.
@pauljsr In my gocde above, the : M558 P5 I1 H1 F100 T36000 line is the controlling line for the Z-Probe.
With this setting and when the red light on (i.e. holding metal under the probe), open your GCode console and enter M119
It should read Z Endstop TRIGGERED when your red light is on.
If it does not read TRIGGER for your Z Endstop when that light is red, then your probe is either scrap or you have your brown and blue wires reversed.
It is (knowing TronXY) possible the brown, blue and black wires are not integrated in their problem correctly as well.
Do not be affraid to connect the wires to the FAN0 points and the far left Z-Probe point beside the LCD 4 wire connector. You will not blow up the Z-Probe, but BE SURE to have the Duet powered off when making wire changes around.
@pauljsr You may have read my post on the TronXY XY-08N probe setup.
To have to have the probe work, the wiring diagram is correct. Make sure the blue/brown wires are in the same orientation as the diagram. If you reverse these 2 wires, the probe will not work.
The fan jumper is already on the Duet board just below the fan plug and should already be jumped for you. It's not a part you need to buy.
I did not change anyhting in my homex, homey, homez or bed G files.
Here is the only thing I needed to adjust in my config.g file to make this work:
M574 Z1 S2 ; Set endstops controlled by probe
M558 P5 I1 H1 F100 T36000 ; Set Z probe type to modulated and the dive height + speeds
G31 P250 X-32 Y-10 Z-0.5 ; Set Z probe trigger value, offset and trigger height
M557 X10:510 Y10:510 S170 ; Define mesh grid
I have modified the lines above for your 500mm bed size so if you enter the g-code G29 in your G-Code Console, you will have a 9 point grid.
So, just comment out all the lines in your current config.g file in the Z-Probe section (keep them, but comment them). To comment them, add a ; in front of each line.
Add the exact lines I have provided above and power cycle your Duet board. It should work for you.
@dc42 Yup, it has the red light. M119 also registers TRIGGERED coincidentally when the red light is on
With my glass bed, the lights are on and everyone's home.
With the Ultrabase, the lights are off and nobody's home.
In my opinion, I'm seeing the Ultrabase must be blocking out enough of the return signal to have it not register. So either a timing issue (maybe a gcode setting) or power level to the sensor.
It's not the end of the world as I actually like my glass bed more than the Ultrabase because glass is easy to clean without accetone, but I'm researching hotbeds for a new printer and really just perplexed why this combination works with RAMPS, but not Duet.
Have a look at my exact same Z-Probe.
My issue is resolved when printing on the original TronXY bed with 3mm glass:
This will resolve your issue and the thread identifies the electrical hookups and the gcode settings for your config.g
I'm sure this will solve your issue as well.
@voodoobane Yes, this post was actually one of the reasons I started to look into the Duet boards.
As funny as it is, I can contest... It not B.S.
I think this is an excellent selling tool. Funny and true
At: https://forum.duet3d.com/post/90882 @AdiGital has linked his GitHub project custom screen.
Before trying to work with this custom screen code, please read through @AdiGital complete post so you understand the context in which he is using the screen.
@dc42 Thanks for your reply.
My Z-Probe is inductive, so no retraction, etc...
Here are my results for each test item using my metal bed with 3mm glass on it:
Z-Probe static test:
Test item 1: With the Z probe deployed (if applicable) but not close enough to the bed to trigger it, check that the Z probe reading in Duet Web Control is zero or close to zero.
Response for glass: Probe reads "0"
Response for Ultrabase: Probe reads "0"
Test item 2: If your Z probe is of a type that produces a continuous output when triggered (for example IR, inductive, capacitive and switch-type probes), hold a surface below the Z probe to cause it to trigger (or jog the nozzle towards the bed until it is close enough to trigger). Check that the Z probe reading in DWC is correct (about 537 for the Mini Differential IR probe, and about 1000 for most other types).
Response for glass: My probe reads "1000"
Response for Ultrabase: My Probe reads "0"
PanelDue test sending G31: Results read same as above.
I also sent M119 and read TRIGGERED for glass and OPEN for Ultrabase.
Z-Probe dynamic test:
Test item HomeAll: X and Y trigger correctly for both bed types.
Response for glass: Probe reads "1000"
Response for Ultrabase: Probe reads "0"
Z-Probe calibration trigger height:
Here is my final - working - Z-Probe configuration that works with my 3mm glass bed:
M574 Z1 S2
M558 P5 I1 H1 F100 T36000
G31 P250 X-32 Y-10 Z1.0
M557 X20:200 Y20:200 S40
The settings above work perfectly with the glass bed.
Using these settings with the Ultrabase, the Z-Probe never triggers using the Duet2 WiFi, but it does when I replace the controller with my RAMPS1.6.
My question / concern is not if the Z-Probe works with the Duet2 WiFi, I have proven that is does work with my glass bed.
I am trying to find the right g-code solution to have my Z-Probe work with the Ultrabase as it did using the RAMPS boards and Marlin F/W.
As previously mentioned, I have tried various g-code settings for:
M558 F and T, as well as for
@dc42 I'm at the point now where I'm testing my gcode for this and found that my TronXY XY-08N inductive z-probe is not working properly with my Duet2 WiFi using my Ultrabase hetbed by AnyCubic.
With my RAMPS systems this combination works.
I'm wondering if my cgode could be tuned better.
Here is my z-probe gcode in the config.g file:
M574 Z1 S2
M558 P5 I1 H5 F100 T36000
G31 P250 X-32 Y-10 Z-0.5
M557 X20:200 Y20:200 S40
As a test, I threw another aluminum bed on top of the AnyCubic hetbed and did a Home Z test and it worked fine, but with the AnyCubic, it seems the ability to sense the metal below is not working with my Duet2 WiFi controller.
I have tried different T and F settings with M558 and also tried different P settings with G31.
@bot I think you must mean "perfect benchies". Beautiful machine.
@dc42 Sorry if my photos in this thread did not show the controller board separate from the LCD.
The issue was my lack of knowledge of the model type between my 7 and a 7i.
The no-logo bin file took care of business and Spool3D also now knows they are receiving their PanelDue models with the 1.21.1 firmware.