Posts made by FG

I opened my PanelDue and it is labelled V 3.0. Due to my firmware already being V. 3.3 I was able to manually press the erase and reset button and upload new firmware (sending the erase and reset commands from the Duet board failed). I tried out the PanelDue firmware 1.25 for PanelDue 3.0-4.3 but this resulted in black stripes on the touch screen which was no longer reacting. However the binary for 3.0-5.0 worked.

Afterwards I updated the DuetWiFi first to 3.4.0 and afterwards to 3.4.1. With this working, I finally updated the PanelDue to 3.4.1 pre 2.

Now everything is up to date and working again. Thank you all very much!

@phaedrux Thank your for the information. Also thank you Dougal1957 for coming up with the M575 command. I missed the part that I need it in the newer firmware. With this command the PanelDue with its version 1.17 connects to the DuetWifi with firmware 3.3.

Unfortunately I get a lot of guests tomorrow which stay until the end of the week. So I am busy preparing different things. I am going to open the case of my PanelDue and connect to it via USB as infiniteloop suggested on Monday in order to find out which version I have. I will let you know as soon as I have more information about it. And even though we have just Wednesday now, I wish you all a nice weekend!

@dc42 Thank you very much for the correct name of the connector. With this change everything was running under 3.0 so I continued to 3.3. I had to play around a little bit to understand the new fan control but in the end I was able to make them work again as they did before.

But with 3.3 the touch screen (PanelDue) is not able to connect to the printer any more. It shows "Connecting" in the upper right corner and gets no data about the printer. In the setup tab it tells its software version to be 1.17. I found out that I have a 5 inch version of the PanelDue but not more details about the hardware. Here:

https://docs.duet3d.com/User_manual/RepRapFirmware/Updating_PanelDue

"late V2/V3/5i/7i PanelDue" are mentioned and I don't know if my PanelDue is a V1 oder V2 or a normal 5" or even 5i. How can I find out if I can install the improved firmware on my PanelDue? And when I cannot install it, will version 1.25 at least allow my PanelDue to communicate with my printer again or do I have to downgrade it to 3.0 again and stay at this version in order for the PanelDue to work?

@phaedrux
I found this guide how to adapt the configuration for the version 3 firmware:

https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/RepRapFirmware_3_overview#Section_Summary_of_what_you_need_to_do_to_convert_your_configuration_and_other_files

I could fix the temperature sensors and heaters but failed with the z probe. First I added it to the z axis which lead to my printer crashing in the endstop continuously. After adding it to E0 the "normal" endstops of my delta printer at the top of each axis work again. I implemented the z probe in the config.g now as follows:

M558 P5 C"e0stop" X0 Y0 Z0 R0.4 H30 F1000 T6000 ; Set Z probe type to unmodulated, the axes for which it is used and the probe + travel speeds
; Z probe parameters
G31 K0 P100 X0.0 Y0.0 Z-0.02

before it was:

M558 P5 X0 Y0 Z0 R0.4 H30 F1000 T6000 ; Set Z probe type to unmodulated, the axes for which it is used and the probe + travel speeds
; Z probe parameters
G31 T1 P100 X0.0 Y0.0 Z-0.02

Due to this change the z probe value is shown in the Web Control again. But it still is permanently triggered with a value of 1000. I could not find any information in the link above why this should happen and what is the source of the error. I did not dare to start a calibration run because I am afraid that the printer will chip down my glass bed while misreading the z probe sensor.

Also I am a little bit afraid to continue updating after this 3.0 version because the linked guide above says that from 3.01 on I have to define my fans with the M950 command and the pins they use. But without disassembling my whole printer setup I have no idea which pins they use and would need to try them out until the correct fan is spinning. Is there a way to read out the pins for the automatically detected fans in 3.0?

@phaedrux I installed 3.0 and now the bed and hotend have a measured temperature of -273.1 °C and also the defaults for the "active" and "standy" temperatures are -273 °C. I have a delta printer with a Smart Effector and before reloading the Web Controller, the old Web Controller also showed that the z probe is read as permanently triggered now. After restarting and reloading everything I now have Duet Web Control 2.0.4 and there the z probe is not shown any more. So I cannot say if it is still read faulty. But the measured and default bed and heater temperatures remain at -273.1 °C.

After the update, before reloading the web interface I tried the M308 command from here:
https://docs.duet3d.com/en/User_manual/Connecting_hardware/Temperature_connecting_PT100
to properly configure the heater. A second heater showed up in the interface for a moment, afterwards it reloaded itself to the new version where only the one original heater was shown again, but still with the absolute zero temperature measured as well as shown on the touch display as active and standy temperature.

@phaedrux Thank you for this very detailed description containing all this links!
I just came home and replaced the /www folder with the 1.22.6 Web Control content and the printer is back online.
It now shows the following versions:

Firmware: 2.05.1 (2020-02-09b1)
WiFi: 1.23
Web Control: 1.22.6

I updated the Web Control at the end of February 2020 and the firmware .bin file in this folder has no version info in its name. So I probably updated the printer already to 2.05.1 back then. Sorry for the confusion with the versions.
Tomorrow I am going to follow your update routine starting at 2.05.1.

It was 1.22.6. I just found the downloaded files on my computer. Is there a way to manually replace the new firmware and web server with this versions? Are they stored directly on the SD card and can just be replaced with copy/paste?

Hi together,
I had problems calibrating my delta printer in the last days (the deviation remained at around 40 µm and I could not find any loose part or anything else explaining it). So I tried dating up the printer in the hope that the calibration routine was maybe improved at some point (I hoped for mixing several delta calibrations together or something similar).

So for my Duet 2 Wifi hardware I downloaded the two files in the 3.4.1 release (https://github.com/Duet3D/RepRapFirmware/releases/tag/3.4.1rc1) which seem to fit for my printer:

• Duet2CombinedFirmware.bin
  and
• DuetWebControl-SD.zip

The firmware I could upload via Web Control and everything seemed ok. Afterwards I uploaded the DuetWebControl-SD.zip to the printer and now I cannot use it any more. The Web Control shows a blue box in the center of the screen in front of the greyed out rest of Web Control with "Connecting..." written in it and is not able to connect any more. In the bottom (also greyed out) there is a red box with "Failed to connect to <Printer-IP>". Before restarting the printer the red box said that the firmware version was incompatible. After restarting the printer it now reports a JSON parsing error on the first character in the first line.

I could now do something with the SD card in the printer but I honestly have no idea what I have to do manually on the SD card now and which versions of firmware and Web Control are working together with each other.

I would be really thankful for some help and advice to get my printer up and running again.

P.S. I am not at home from tomorrow morning until Monday, so I cannot work on the problem this weekend. I hope I will be able to at least answer in this forum with my mobile phone.

Oh, I just found one problem. If I leave out the two extra diodes in the simulation tool I get a huge oscillation into the circuit which is not damped out even after 100 ms and has amplitudes of up to 40 V and 6 A. Current is running backwards through the fan outputs of the Duet.
Is that not a very bad thing?
EDIT: Reseted the circuit in the link
(The changed circuit: https://www.falstad.com/circuit/circuitjs.html?cct=$+1+1.0000000000000001e-7+25.510281670702206+38+5+43 R+176+160+48+160+0+2+50000+24+0+0+0.99 d+176+384+176+160+2+1N5711 w+176+160+288+160+0 209+288+160+288+384+0+0.00009999999999999999+0.001+1 w+288+160+400+160+0 r+400+160+400+384+0+342.86 l+288+384+176+384+0+0.001+0 g+176+384+48+384+0 w+288+384+400+384+0 o+5+64+0+4098+80+0.1+0+2+5+3 o+6+64+0+20481+5+6.4+1+2+6+3 o+0+64+0+20737+40+25.6+2+2+0+3 )

Thank you for the info.

With 50 kHz an 1 mH inductor is also working in the online tool. Since I can get this with a 130 mA rating I will try it to avoid too much up-heating over time.

Hi,

I have a T3DP3D Kossel XL+ and use two 50x50x15 radial fans for part cooling and a 40 mm axial fan for hotend cooling.
With this setup I have an amazing part cooling power and I would like to reduce the fan speed to have a more quiet setup. But unfortunately due to the PWM noise the fans do not really become much quieter if I slow them down.
Hence I designed a small piece of circuit which I want to install in the wire going to the fans to smooth out the PWM signal.
My plan is to build this circuit (the resistance is a fan) (Sorry for the long link, it contains the full circuit https://www.falstad.com/circuit/circuitjs.html?cct=$+1+0.000001+10.20027730826997+50+5+43 R+96+160+48+160+0+2+10000+24+0+0+0.99 d+176+384+96+384+2+default d+176+384+176+160+2+default w+176+160+288+160+0 209+288+160+288+384+0+0.00009999999999999999+0.001+1 w+288+160+400+160+0 r+400+160+400+384+0+342.86 l+288+384+176+384+0+0.01+0 g+96+384+48+384+0 w+288+384+400+384+0 d+96+160+176+160+2+default o+6+64+0+4098+80+0.1+0+2+6+3 o+7+64+0+20481+5+0.4+1+2+7+3 o+0+64+0+20737+40+0.4+2+2+0+3 ) on a small board, solder it into the middle of the wire connecting the fans and - to avoid too heavy EMI with the smart effector, - fold a thin sheet (I think 0.5 mm could be foldable without a machine) of galvanized steel around it and connect both sides of it by soldering them together so that only the ends with the wires are still open.
What is more I have to set the PWM frequency for the fans to 10 kHz in order to let the 10 mH inductor work properly.
As you can see in the link above, I build in two diode at the power source and the ground to avoid voltage peaks (like the >40 V when switching the fan from zero or low power to full power) reaching the smart effector and the Duet board. My capacitor is rated 50 V and the diode 40 V. I think the fan should also have no problem with a millisecond peak of high voltage and current.

After all this description follows my actual question . Can I harm my Duet3D hardware with this circuit? And has maybe somebody with a better understanding of electronics (I needed some help to get explained which type of diodes (Schottky) and capacitor (electrolytic) I need) some idea of a possible mistake I have done in this circuit which will make it not working, destroying the fan, the printer, burning or something else? I would really like to hear your opinion before I test this circuit on my printer.

P.S. I worked some evenings on the burning aspect because with 500 Hz I would need a 100 mH inductor and they have a really low current rating before they heat up. The 10 mH inductor I have ordered now has a current rating of 90 mA and the equilibrium mA I have at 100% fan speed are only 66 mA. So I think the heat development should be ok(?).

Thank you for reading this long post

I tested a relation to temperature changes by disconnecting the hotend fan while the z probe was triggering at 220 degrees. But the z probe stopped to trigger immediately.
After I let it cool down again I saw a little "nugget" of dust at the outer side of the fan which was not standing out of the fan before. When I pulled it out some fine fibres (thin like a hair) of plastic followed the dust nugget. It looked like the fan had sucked in some plastic fibres from stringy prints and they combined with normal dust to build up this nugget.
After removing the nugget I had an idea and tested the z probe again. It was working fine again.
My theory is that the dust nugget slid between the fan blades and the housing while I removed the smart effector from the printer. Afterwards it slowed down the fan and somehow, since it had to work harder, it maybe heated up internally, leading to stronger magnetic fields emitted (I have no idea if that is nonsense or possible) which influenced the z probe. This would be an explanation why the effect was slowly building up but immediately stopping when the fan was stopped.
So my problem is solved now and I hope this thread will be helpful to others running into this issue.
Thank you for your answers.

Thanks for your answers.
I did not remove the rods from the printer, just from the Smart effector. I never thought about which polarity they have, but since they are in the same order and direction as before, I would expect the polarity to be also the same as it was when it was still working.
@ Dj and number40fan, until Wednesday everything was fine with my fan and I did not exchange it, move it or did something else with it on Thursday. So it should have shown the same behaviour before. And also it seems to be strange for me that some interference with the fan would take such a long time to slowly build up when the fan is running, does not change when the fan slows down but then immediately stops when the fan stops.
Shouldn't an interference with the fan show effects which directly correspond with the speed of the fan?

Hi at all,

I have a Kossel XL Plus and the z probe on the Smart effector was just working fine until last week. On Thursday I removed it from the delta rods to lubricate the extruder. Afterwards, when I started some print jobs, the automatic delta calibration failed two times that evening with incredible high deviations and the hotend crashed into the frame of the printer outside the hot bed.
On Saturday I tried to collect more information about the error from Thursday and I recognized the following:
When the hot end freshly heats up everything works normal. After it is staying hot (at 220 degrees in my case) for some time the z probe starts triggering randomly from time to time. This becomes more and more until after a few minutes it is just continuously triggering without pausing to trigger any more. When I turn the hot end off it continuous to permanently trigger even when the fan slows down at very low temperatures. In the moment when the fan completely powers off at 45 degrees the z probe stops triggering immediately.

I have no explanation for this behaviour. First of all I didn't change anything on my setup when this error started to happen and what is more I would expect an electric interference to start with the hot end fan and not to become stronger with time. And if this would be a purely mechanical issue it should change when the fan slows down and also if I hold the hotend fan in my hand, which shows no significant difference.

Has anyone an explanation what could cause this strange behaviour and how I can further analyse the source of the error?

Regards,

Felix