Ok, so that nightmare is over. I had time to come back to this project. I took the original sd card that came with the duet and plugged it in my pc just like last time and for some reason it let me look at the files. Last time it wanted me to format the card and i never did. So then i just dragged the sdiap_MB6HC.bin file into the folder where needed and that was it. Why that wanted to work all of a sudden i don't know.

Finished uploading the rest of the install in web control and is now 3.2.0.

Thanks for the help

@T3P3Tony

Just bought 2 on e3d online. That was the only place I could find it. Filastruder was my go-to. Even volcano nozzles are becoming obsolete it seems like. That sounds crazy to say. Might have to use sales@duet3d.com in the near future. If you guys stop making these my $10,000 delta becomes garbage.

What's going on? Is a new version coming out or are people not using delta printers anymore?

@Diamondback When you say V4 are you referring about the v3 product on the website that's revision 3.0? The software calls v4 in gcode which is really v3.0 but the fourth revision because of 1.7, 1.7a, 1.7b, then 3.0?

Or is a new filament monitor v4 on the way?

@dc42 my bowden tube is 5 feet long from the magnetic v1 sensor to the orbiter extruder. It's a delta printer so that's really as close as I can get it. I am just now testing my v1 after years of it collecting dust as we speak.

@dc42 With the new v3 is it accurate enough that I could go through 4 rolls on a single print without any errors?

@jay_s_uk 3.4.4

Installed duet magnetic filament monitor v1.7 I had laying around and hooked it up to io_4. on a duet 3 mainboard 6hc. Pretty sure I had the wires hooked up in the correct pins. When I gave power to my printer the led would flash red and green on the filament monitor. I then put

M591 D0 P3 C"io4.in+io4.out" R40:120 E3.0 S1; in config.g

It asked if I wanted to reset the board and I said yes. Then I lost communication to the board via browser. I had to plug in the board with usb connected to yats and I can then get on web control but when I look at my config.g file its empty. My macros and jobs are still present. What happened? I have a backup config.g I could copy and past but wanted to ask first. Ip is still the same also when I looked on yats.

@dc42 The wires I had on the molex kk are 18 ga found here. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KCPKTQM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
They fit perfectly in the connector insulation and all. I spent a lot of money getting a different color for each connection. I'm sure 18ga was prob overkill but its a long connection, a heated chamber and it gave me other benefits. It is a premium wire on my printer other than a subpar ribbon cable. Everything was just fine!

The wire I tried to get on the jst ph are even a high ga being 22 found here. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K4RPC4M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

So how was I going to get that 18 ga on the jst ph when the 22 does not even fit properly in the crimp connections to crimp down on the insulation like its designed? You just said the same wires would typically crimp.

Now your telling me that it is easier to crimp a ph connection that's half the size of a molex kk?

Don't get me wrong, using the smart effector is 1,000x better than using a sheet of paper adjusting the end stops all the time back in 2013 on my crappy Rostock max. But let's not go backwards here. I can try using an even higher gauge but it looks like 24 will not even fit in that...

@dc42 2nd time a wire has broke with the JST PH. IMO at this point the Molex kk was a way better connector than these thin fragile wires that are even harder to crimp. I never had any problems with the tendency to become disconnected on the Molex kk. This is torture, fix this asap please. I can't be the only one.

It was the G10 bed on the mic6.... going to use 3M 468MP and tape it down see if I get better results. Thanks for the help everyone...

This is the height map with the mic6 and the printbite