Posts made by VJ

I'm not sure that that is so straightforward... Also, it is nice that the firmware just does what the command tells it to do, without performing additional steps behind the user's back. Sure you have to know more what you do, but at least it allows you to do what you want.

@Phaedrux said in z-offset increasing 3mm on every subsequent calibration:

@VJ Done.

Thanks!

Thanks!
Perhaps a note on https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Test_and_calibrate_the_Z_probe should be added that mesh calibration should be off, or that at least you should test at a point where the calibration has 0 effect...?

Ok, finally getting back to this...

I've got it ... I think... If you do a mesh compensation, and afterwards determine the Z-offset with the mesh compensation in effect, it will affect the determination of the Z-offset... As I was doing the homing in the front left corner, but the Z-offset calibration in the center, it added the mesh offset calibration which I did before the print (but which was not used in the print) when the z-offset is calculated again afterwards. As I was using the mesh calculation to check how level everything is, it enabled it, giving me an increase equal to the amount it is compensating with the mesh (and that was a magnitude off due to other wrong settings)... Does this make sense?

I currently started repeating Z-offset calibration without mesh compensation in between, and it seems correct...

Thanks!
A bit worried about updating, so I'll hold off for now (have some things to print) and do it when being without a printer is less of an issue.

@DIY-O-Sphere

I found that that was the case for the Maestro... Thanks for confirming.

@droftarts said in config tool and BLTouch for Duet2 Ethernet:

@VJ see https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/RepRapFirmware_3_overview#Section_Pin_names_for_Duet_2_WiFi_Ethernet

Duex pwm pin name is the same as expansion pin, but you can rename it later.

exp.heater3, exp.8, !duex.e2heat, !duex.pwm1
exp.heater4, exp.13, !duex.e3heat, !duex.pwm2
exp.heater5, exp.18, !duex.e4heat, !duex.pwm3
exp.heater6, exp.23, !duex.e5heat, !duex.pwm4
exp.heater7, exp.31, !duex.e6heat, !duex.pwm5

Ian

Thanks... I missed that one... The instructions gave me a bit the impression that they were different, and I did not come across the page you linked.
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Connecting_a_Z_probe#Section_Software_setup_RepRapFirmware_Num_3

So basically, if I use the pin exp.heater3, I just select duex.pwm1 ...? Do I have to change anything else afterwards in the config file?

The issue is on the page "IO Mapping", where I cannot assign a PWM Control Channel that makes sense for my configuration (available options all relate to Duex). For Z-probe input pin I can select zprobe.in, for Z-probe modulation pin I can select zprobe.mod, but for the control channel, the options are unassigned or duex.pwm1, ... duex.pwm5.

Without an assigned PWM Control Channel, the BLTouch option is greyed out in the endstop page, with the note "Note: You must specify an input and a PWM control pin on the I/O Mapping page if you want to configure a BLTouch probe. "

Hello,

I planning to upgrade my Duet 2 to firmware 3.1 and started first by checking the config tool to be sure I can create a working config after upgrading.

Starting from a new custom configuration, the config tool does not give me the option to configure the BLTouch...
For "PWM Control Channel", the only options I have in PWM Control Channel are "not assigned" and then "duex.pwm1" to "duex.pwm5". The combination of the z-probe options above this setting makes no difference... If I choose unassigned, BLTouch is not selectable in the endstop page.

I have no expansion boards installed on my Duet2 Ethernet (not told the config tool that I have).

How do I configure the BLTouch?

Thanks!

Jörg

post removed - starting a new thread

I have the BLTouch smart, which is less critical to the z-offset installation (according to the diagram here https://www.antclabs.com/bltouch-2 , between 2.3 and 4.3, so I'm nicely within range with my 3.84).
(see below)

I will start rewiring everything, maybe there is some bad cable somewhere as now I cannot seem to get the correct z-trigger height. I know from my successful prints that it should be 3.84, and I have not changed anything to the hardware, but it keeps the head higher when it thinks Z=0. Previously, when I changed from 3.84 to a higher value, it cause a headcrash, which I want to avoid.
So I'll rewire everything and make order in the cabling: best is to first rule out some bad wire or something that may cause issues. Don't get me wrong, I will change the Z-motors as a next step, but as you see, there is something very wrong with the mesh map and the z-trigger height. So, starting to rewire everything, but I will only be able to get back to this in 2 weeks. Thanks for the help, for sure I will keep you posted.

EDIT: I may have a BLTouch Smart v2.0, which has the range at 3mm+/- 0.3, but I'm out of range (my 3.84 is when it is deployed, but when it is not I for sure have less than 2.7mm). That my indeed explain the inconsistent readouts! Ok, so going to rewire and reattach the bltouch: If I put it at 3mm, I should be fine regardless of whether I have a v2 or a v3 (but I'm 99% sure I have a v2). THANKS!!!! Not sure if this is the cause, but it seems possible.

Trying another print, and again the same issue: the z-offset is wrong (print head is too high). This time the configurator was set to the correct firmware. Unplugging the printer does not fix it, neither does running the calibration again (modifying config.g but putting the same old value) and rebooting.

Interesting!

Ok, so we have 2 separate issues: first is the offset of the bltouch with the hotend (which for some odd reason is increasing every time I re-run it, until cut the power, but I do run this one in the center of the bed, every time on the same location). I think it may be related to the bug (the thread I linked to) that was in earlier firmwares and possibly due to an incorrect selection in the reprap web configurator (where it was set to firmware 1.6 rather than the 2.03). I cannot test this now with the new setting, as my printer is printing.

Second issue is the error in the mesh grid. If you compare your mesh grid to mine (in the zip file), mine shows :
min error -3.076 max error -0.011 mean -1.625 deviation 0.790
Good point on the level, but if the bed would move unequally left/right with a difference of 3mm, the level should show some variation (3mm difference on 30cm is for sure visible) and printing would be for sure impossible. It would make more sense if it would be 0.3mm, but that is not what it outputs. So this mesh probing is doing something wrong as these readings don't match at all with reality. This is the output from another run today (so values may differ from the ones in the zip file):

Third aspect is the z-motors not being synced. I agree it is an issue which I will have to solve (probably will move one to E1 to allow for autoleveling, as that is the easiest), but does this alone explain the issues above?

I made a new config starting from the webconfigurator, to also set the motors correctly and noticed that one of the settings is the firmware version. I loaded my old json config, and it filled that field in with firmware 1.6. So maybe the issue I was seeing with the z-probe offset is due to that and the issue that was fixed in later firmware versions.

I was not aware I was not using mesh leveling, but maybe it is a good thing I was not using the mesh level correction: according to it, there is a 3mm difference (see the csv file, the corner at the back and to the right), which is completely not true. I agree I would not see 0.3mm difference, but 3mm should be visible with the spirit level and would for sure make prints impossible. So I will have to figure out why mesh leveling deviates that much from reality before I activate it: the prints work quite fine as it is, so any deviation cannot be that much (0.3 might be possible as I have not yet gone all the way to the far end of the bed, but noticed a bit of warping in that corner on a bigger print yesterday). However, as long as it gives me such big values (3mm), I would be worried that the compensation would make the head dive into the bed.

My Z-screws are quite to the front, as the balance point of the bed is a lot more forward due to my bed construction (from top to bottom: ultrabase, alu plates, heatpad, cork insulator and another alu plate), but the Z-probe still is about 14 cm in front of the left Z-screw. I don't care that much about automatic z-leveling at this point, although it may be something easy to do as I have all the hardware needed for that (dual extrusion is long term planning) and for sure easier than the microswitch solution (for which I have not seen any tutorials or so on how to configure that).

I'm keeping printing some parts to properly wire everything and will have to get back to it in 2 weeks time (no possibility for me to do it now).

Just in case, this is the end of the file:

...
G0 F7200 X150.825 Y137.674
G1 F1800 X149.978 Y138.521 E0.01992
G1 X149.908 Y138.591
;TIME_ELAPSED:878.734137
G1 F1500 E-6.5
M140 S0
M141 S0
M82 ;absolute extrusion mode
M107
M104 S0
M140 S0
;Retract the filament
G92 E1
G1 E-1 F300
G28 X0 Y0
M84
M83 ;relative extrusion mode
M104 S0
;End of Gcode
;SETTING_3 {"extruder_quality": ["[general]\nversion = 4\nname = Fine #2\ndef
;SETTING_3 inition = fdmprinter\n\n[metadata]\ntype = quality_changes\nsetti
;SETTING_3 ng_version = 8\nquality_type = normal\nposition = 0\n\n[values]\
;SETTING_3 n\n", "[general]\nversion = 4\nname = Fine #2\ndefinition = fdmpr
;SETTING_3 inter\n\n[metadata]\ntype = quality_changes\nsetting_version = 8
;SETTING_3 \nquality_type = normal\nposition = 1\n\n[values]\n\n", "[genera
;SETTING_3 l]\nversion = 4\nname = Fine #2\ndefinition = fdmprinter\n\n[met
;SETTING_3 adata]\ntype = quality_changes\nsetting_version = 8\nquality_type
;SETTING_3 = normal\nposition = 2\n\n[values]\n\n", "[general]\nversion =
;SETTING_3 4\nname = Fine #2\ndefinition = fdmprinter\n\n[metadata]\ntype =
;SETTING_3 quality_changes\nsetting_version = 8\nquality_type = normal\nposi
;SETTING_3 tion = 3\n\n[values]\n\n", "[general]\nversion = 4\nname = Fine
;SETTING_3 #2\ndefinition = fdmprinter\n\n[metadata]\ntype = quality_change
;SETTING_3 s\nsetting_version = 8\nquality_type = normal\nposition = 4\n\n[
;SETTING_3 values]\n\n", "[general]\nversion = 4\nname = Fine #2\ndefinitio
;SETTING_3 n = fdmprinter\n\n[metadata]\ntype = quality_changes\nsetting_ver
;SETTING_3 sion = 8\nquality_type = normal\nposition = 5\n\n[values]\n\n",
;SETTING_3 "[general]\nversion = 4\nname = Fine #2\ndefinition = fdmprinter
;SETTING_3 \n\n[metadata]\ntype = quality_changes\nsetting_version = 8\nqual
;SETTING_3 ity_type = normal\nposition = 6\n\n[values]\n\n", "[general]\nv
;SETTING_3 ersion = 4\nname = Fine #2\ndefinition = fdmprinter\n\n[metadata]
;SETTING_3 \ntype = quality_changes\nsetting_version = 8\nquality_type = norm
;SETTING_3 al\nposition = 7\n\n[values]\n\n"], "global_quality": "[general]
;SETTING_3 \nversion = 4\nname = Fine #2\ndefinition = fdmprinter\n\n[metad
;SETTING_3 ata]\ntype = quality_changes\nsetting_version = 8\nquality_type =
;SETTING_3 normal\n\n[values]\nadhesion_type = brim\n\n"}

This is a small file I printed today. It was a very small object (probably too small to have the detail using a 0.6 nozzle, but taking that into account it looks quite good. It was the racecar from here ( https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3336875 ), sliced using Cura. Bottom layers seems to have been a bit too high from the bed, and the wheels don't spin (but it is my first in-place print). All files I printed I sliced with Cura, with similar settings (fine or normal, only changing the amount of infill and the skirt/brim).

;FLAVOR:RepRap
;TIME:878
;Filament used: 0.341947m
;Layer height: 0.1
;MINX:121.343
;MINY:128.326
;MINZ:0.3
;MAXX:159.796
;MAXY:151.668
;MAXZ:9.8
;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 4.2.1
T0
M190 S60
M104 S210
M109 S210
M82 ;absolute extrusion mode
G28 ;Home
G1 Z15.0 F6000 ;Move the platform down 15mm
;Prime the extruder
G92 E0
G1 F200 E3
G92 E0
M141 S28
M83 ;relative extrusion mode
G1 F1500 E-6.5
;LAYER_COUNT:96
;LAYER:0
M107
G0 F3600 X125.095 Y135.357 Z0.3
;TYPE:SKIRT
G1 F1500 E6.5
G1 F1800 X125.658 Y134.88 E0.03681
G1 X126.172 Y134.485 E0.03234
G1 X126.903 Y133.987 E0.04413
....

You are right about the 800mA; the motors are these: https://e3d-online.com/motors-high-torque-motor ; probably a setting I forgot to adjust when redoing configurations over and over (I redid the configs quite often )...

But... how do unsynced z-axis steppers affect the z-offset of the probe and the hotend?

Still, if there is something with the z-steppers it also needs to be fixed... I was hoping to keep the E1 available to later go to dual extrusion... so there is no way to do that it would work without resorting to using E1? I mean, when I put a level on the bed and move it repeatedly up and down, the level keeps showing center. I know a level is not as accurate as probing, but it seems ok.

I dumped the entire sysfolder into a zip file here: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1__yCyD3UbG1hOE54KUNkAppYJNVAUjkl

The config files were all generated using the web-configurator and not modified (apart from the z-offset). Printer is a CoreXY (Ratrig kit) with dual Z-motors (same channel, no automatic leveling). All motors are 0.9°.

I found this older thread on the same topic: https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/7607/z-offset-increasing-after-a-print/10

After every calibration of the z-offset, the offset increases with 0.3mm. I reboot between settingschanges, but only cutting the power to the printer allows me back to have the initial (correct) value for the z-offset). I suspect this issue also affects subsequent prints, as a second print fails more often than a first.

Firmware Name: RepRapFirmware for Duet 2 WiFi/Ethernet
Firmware Electronics: Duet Ethernet 1.02 or later
Firmware Version: 2.03 (2019-06-13b2)
Web Interface Version: 1.22.6

My Z-probe is a bltouch... no idea where to start looking

@planeguy Not sure if you still need my reply... I have not yet messed around with the fans as I has quite some delays. Just last week I started with the first test prints. I have a 24v fan and am using that at the moment. The 12v route is on my todo-list, but that rather is an upgrade to make it all more silent. No idea when I will get to that though; first I want it to print.