M280 P0 S90
That was it, that was the problem.
Thank you so much!
This is my first post here on the forums, therefore I will start by saying „thank you for having me!”.
I own a Creality CR 10 MAX (which is also my first printer), received back in May this year, and so far I have performed a series of modifications on it. I have modified it quite a bit: converted to DirectDrive using hardware from TriangleLabs, changed the bed to a mirror one, added LED lighting to it, connected an OctoPrint, webcam, etc.
During my DirectDrive conversion, I used a brand new NEMA 17 1.8 degrees, 25mm pancake motor which I installed and configured with VRef modification, it worked well until the beginning of October, when the motor stopped working.
Its behavior was pretty weird, it rarely responded to commands sent to it, and when it did, it just made a grinding noise and would not spin at all. I took it out of the DirectDrive mount and tried it outside of the mount, it would spin when a command was sent to it, but would have no spin force (I could stop it by squeezing the shaft between two fingers).
I believed it became defective, so replaced it with the heavier and more powerful Creality 40-42 motor which was the default Bowden extruder one. It worked was too heavy and but pushed too hard, at some point bending the filament inside the DirectDrive, which required me to disassemble the whole thing. So I bought and installed a new Pancake motor, this time from Bondtech.
It worked for three weeks.
Earlier today, i started a print and realize I had forgotten to adjust the first layer height, so canceled the print and resliced the model. Upon attempting to print it again, the extruder motor would not spin. Troubleshooting revealed that it started suffering from the same issue as the previous one.
TL;DR: my printer chews through extruder pancake motors and I suspect it's something the driver or motherboard does.
So I am looking at fully replacing the motherboard with a Duet 3. Since I am a beginner in this, only having performed basic modifications so far, I am wondering what should I buy other than the Duet 3. I am looking at a complete solution, that is the motherboard, a nice screen, and whatever else is required. Looking for recommendations, I plan on placing the order in the next few days.
Thank you in advance for reading my wall of text and for your responses!
I apologize if this had been discussed before, however my weak search-fu on the forums yielded no specific results, so here I am, making another potentially-annoying topic
At any rate... I have a CoreXY printer (RatRig V-Core 3) with Duet 3 6HC, Toolboard 1.0 (not yet installed) and PanelDue 5i. Everything is installed, configured and works well.
With that being said, I have been looking at beefing up my part cooling fan, because at high speeds and accelerations, part cooling is lagging, even with a 6K RPM 5015 blower at full speed. I have the possibility of installing a high powered 12V fan, but its current rating is 2.3A - therefore I need some help correctly installing it.
I can either buy a dedicated 12V Mean Well DIN Rail PSU for the fan itself (example), and only connect tacho and PWM pins to the Duet 3 (would that work?). Alternatively, if you think it's possible to connect and power it from the Duet 3 directly, please let me know how to do so. The hotend cooling fan is 24V, by the way.
Thank you in advance for your help!
I apologize, the schematic was primitive and did not exactly respect the pin layouts. When I physically connect the fan, I will look up pin order and connect appropriately.
Thank you very much for the VOUTLC jumper block mention, I would have surely missed it. VN position means leaving the 12V pin free, I assume? I apologize for asking these questions, I looked up "VN" in the Duet 3 6HC Wiring Diagram and there was no reference.
Sorry about the necro, but I wanted to continue this topic to keep things consistent.
I have managed to buy a better fan, the Delta PFB0412EN-E, here's the specifications document.
As mentioned before, I have a Duet 3 6HC which has three 4-pin PWM fan headers.
The fan is powered using a DC/DC converter (Mean Well DDR-60G-12) which is itself powered from the same PSU as the one powering the Duet (Mean Well NDR-240-24).
I have received a very informative reply from @dc42 above. Based on it, I have devised the following, beautifully hand-painted circuitry.
I'd like to confirm this is how hardware is supposed to be connected... I'm not an electronics expert...
Thank you in advance for your replies!
Thank you. I want to show them, but the colors are so close together that they become confusing.
Too bad about hard-coding them, it would have been nice if they were configurable (at the minimum, through a hex color code within a configuration file). Maybe a feature for future versions...
My question is now answered, thanks again.
I have installed a couple more temperature sensors on my 3D printer (using Duet 3 6HC), and I am wondering whether (and how) could the temperature colors be customized in the temperature chart.
@deckingman I'm afraid there is some misunderstanding here.
The topic is not about saving time and money, there's plenty of either. It's about performance in a small package, with specific requirements. I appreciate you trying to help, it was just not what I needed, that's all
Problem number one:
Shipping Alert: Product available only to OEM/EMS and design business customers. Product is not shipped to consumers in the EU.
Problem number two: it's not the right size. I need a 7530 fan, not a 9533 fan.
Problem number three: it's heavier than the 12V 7530 fan. 190 grams versus 140 grams.
Problem number four: has less air pressure than the 12V fan, air pressure takes precedence.
Problem number five: the 7530 fan I had linked was successfully tested in 3D printing, as a matter of fact it was used to cool the Benchy in the Speedboat challenge bed slinger world record (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3rQoG3aUKMI). The fans you have linked have not been tested.
I'd rather invest in a 25 bucks 24V-12V converter, rather than experiment with something that's bigger, heavier, less performing and harder to obtain, just because it's 24V.
Appreciate the recommendation, but it's not what I am looking for.
@dc42 thank you, I will test, check and install as recommended.
Connections in detail: The board connection (Duet3 mainboard) is one of the 4 pin fan headers (e.g. out 4), via a fan extension cable where I've snipped the power/grnd wires (leaving PWM/tach). That extension then connects to a 4 pin 'fan splitter' y cable which connects to both pump motors' stock signal connectors.
 I'm not in front of my machine right now, so I might be misremembering and the pumps might just not have a tach signal -- which would obviously explain why it doesn't work.
That might be why the tach signal isn't working. I (used to) have two pumps as well (in my PC), and I used one tach signal from each pump, connected to separate tach pins.
You can use one pump as "master" with the tach signal, and from the other use just the PWM wire.
@dc42 thank you for your response. I can get a Mean Well DDR-60G-12 which provides more than enough power. Just to be extra-sure, the DC-DC converter should only provide the positive wire (one wire in total), or both positive and ground?
@war4peace Try printing one of these: https://vimeo.com/268264890
It uses a brushless motor from a HDD, and a $10 driver that accepts PWM input to control the speed. The output is designed to fit a standard CPAP hose. It will deliver more air than you'll ever need and should be quieter than a squirrel cage blower.
The assembly that I am using (EVA) already has a GIT contrib which allows for a 7530 fan to be installed. There is no need to look for another solution, all I need is to know how to connect a 2.3A 12V fan to the Duet 3 6HC motherboard.
How are you defining "powerful"
@feeshfeud I happen to have some watercooling knowledge, wondering why are you using parallel setup for the D5 pumps, rather than have them connected in series.
How did you connect the wires? +/- to the charger, and tach + pwm to the board? If so, which board connector have you used for the tach and PWM wires? Could you please provide me some more detail around that?