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    M305 Thermistor Values for the Duet Maestro on the Ender 3 Pro?

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    • deckingmanundefined
      deckingman @punamenon
      last edited by deckingman

      @punamenon From the Wiki here https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Connecting_thermistors_or_PT1000_temperature_sensors

      Quote.........

      "The R parameter is the value (in ohms) of the series resistor on the controller electronics. You do not need to specify this value unless you are using a Duet 06 or a DueX4 expansion board. If you do specify it, the correct value is:

      Duet 2 WiFi, Duet 2 Ethernet, Duex 2 and Duex 5 expansion boards, and Duet 0.8.5: 4700
      Duet 2 Maestro: 2200
      Duet 06: older boards 1000, newer boards 4700
      Duex 4 version 0.2: 1000
      Duex 4 version 0.2a: older boards 1000, newer boards 4700
      

      Edit. The correct for the Maestro seems to be 2200 and in your OP you stated that you changed it from 4700 to 2250, so that might account for why it was better but not quite right.

      Ian
      https://somei3deas.wordpress.com/
      https://www.youtube.com/@deckingman

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      • dc42undefined
        dc42 administrators
        last edited by dc42

        @punamenon said in M305 Thermistor Values for the Ender 3 Pro?:

        P.S. The stock control board running Marlin was working. I went to the Creality website and downloaded their Marlin source code for the Ender 3 Pro. Assuming this firmware actually goes with these thermistors, here is the Thermistor Table from Marlin.

        I've plugged those value sinto my spreadsheet and the calculator at https://www.thinksrs.com/downloads/programs/therm calc/ntccalibrator/ntccalculator.html. To get the same readings as Marlin does when using that table, use:

        M305 P1 T98801 B4185

        Alternatively use these S-H coefficients:

        A = 0.7250586298 e-3, B = 2.151072687 e-4, C = 1.019172637 e-7

        and convert the A and B coefficients into T and B values for M305.

        I think the reason these are slightly different from the values that you got are that you should add 0.5 to each of the ADC counts in the table, to allow for the fact that the ADC rounds down.

        Duet WiFi hardware designer and firmware engineer
        Please do not ask me for Duet support via PM or email, use the forum
        http://www.escher3d.com, https://miscsolutions.wordpress.com

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        • Vetiundefined
          Veti @punamenon
          last edited by

          @punamenon said in M305 Thermistor Values for the Ender 3 Pro?:

          The equation you gave me uses the 4700 value.

          that is correct because the marlin table is for a resistance of 4700 which is present on nearly all 8 bit boards. so to convert it you use 4700

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          • Vetiundefined
            Veti @punamenon
            last edited by

            @punamenon said in M305 Thermistor Values for the Ender 3 Pro?:

            M305 P0 T97700 B4619 C9.743561e-8 R4700

            again you specified R4700. that is incorrect for the duet maestro

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            • punamenonundefined
              punamenon
              last edited by

              @veti @dc42 @deckingman

              Thank you all for your input and help! Here is my conclusion for anyone else finding this thread and needing an answer:

              The following settings using veti's method work:
              M305 P0 T97700 B4619 C9.743561e-8 R2200
              M305 P1 T97700 B4619 C9.743561e-8 R2200

              The following settings using dc42's numbers also work:
              M305 P0 T98801 B4185 R2200
              M305 P1 T98801 B4185 R2200

              I'm guessing that anyone using run of the mill thermistors from China (purchased on ebay or aliexpress, etc) with a Duet Maestro board will find these settings to be functional. I notice little difference between the settings from dc42 and the ones from veti. They vary from each other by only about 2°C at the high end (ABS printing temperature), and they completely agreee/match at room temperature. I'm going to go with dc42's numbers as he explained he was correcting for a rounding error, so potentially more accuracy there. All of this is assuming that the original numbers from the Marlin table were accurate.

              Disclaimer: I'm measuring the bed temperature using an IR thermometer which gives varying readings +/- 1.5°C. The accuracy of the Thermometer is also questionable (+/- 2.5°C?). I have no way of accurately measuring the temperature of the hotend. To gauge this I'm manually forcing ABS Filament through the nozzle. While I haven't gotten my fingers calibrated recently, I am comparing the feel of this to the same filament going through my other printer which is properly calibrated for temperatures, and has the same size nozzle. Given these constraints, my conclusions are more of an art than a science.

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              • bugsysiegalsundefined
                bugsysiegals
                last edited by

                @dc42 said in M305 Thermistor Values for the Duet Maestro on the Ender 3 Pro?:

                B4185

                I'e just installed the Duet Maestro for Ender 3 Pro and am having issues with something in the layer change corner on my calibration cube ... https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/10623/duet-maestro-upgrade-calibrations-cube-issue/7

                Besides that issue, to add to this discussion, my bed is working perfectly using M305 P0 T98801 B4185 rather than M305 P0 T100000 B4138 R4700 which I originally found on https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HxEk7-6RriQ&t=1031s

                That said, when using either M305 P1 T98801 B4185 or M305 P1 T97700 B4619 C9.743561e-8 R2200 my hot end measured ~160C when set to 200C. I was hearing slight clicking noise from the extruder when it was retracting and perhaps because the filament wasn't hot enough. Using the oversample/temp values above, a value of 2200 rather than 4700 since I'm using a Maestro, plugging the results into the spreadsheet dc42 linked, and using those values in my gcode, M305 P1 T45731.91 B4161.08 C10.817155e-8 R2200, has resulted in the hot end measuring 177C of 200C.

                I moved my IR all over the place to get the max temp from the hot end while it was stationary. It's difficult to measure but seems correct. Hopefully I will not cause any damage with these values? Is there anyway to better measure the hot end? It doesn't matter which way the hot end wires connect +/- correct? I'm trying to understand why the temp is so far off while the bed is working perfectly.

                dc42undefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • dc42undefined
                  dc42 administrators @bugsysiegals
                  last edited by dc42

                  @bugsysiegals, have you seen the recently-published Ender 3 guides at https://duet3d.dozuki.com/c/Duet_2_Maestro ?

                  It's not possible to measure the hot end temperature accurately using an IR thermometer because the target area is too small.

                  Duet WiFi hardware designer and firmware engineer
                  Please do not ask me for Duet support via PM or email, use the forum
                  http://www.escher3d.com, https://miscsolutions.wordpress.com

                  T3P3Tonyundefined tompoperundefined 2 Replies Last reply Reply Quote 1
                  • T3P3Tonyundefined
                    T3P3Tony administrators @dc42
                    last edited by dc42

                    @bugsysiegals The guides that @dc42 mentiuons do not show up if you are not logged into the documentation site because they are "inprogress". the direct links are here:

                    https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Guide/Ender+3+Pro+and+Duet+Maestro+Guide+Part+1:+Wiring/37
                    https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Guide/Ender+3+Pro+and+Duet+Maestro+Guide+Part+2:+Configuration/38
                    https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Guide/Ender+3+Pro+and+Duet+Maestro+Guide+Part+3:+Commissioning/39

                    from the configuration guide:
                    0_1558804425783_a1abe928-efff-489f-ac51-4256888cb190-image.png

                    www.duet3d.com

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                    • tompoperundefined
                      tompoper @dc42
                      last edited by

                      @dc42 Math has never been my strong suit. I tried to follow along with your recommendations above to no avail. I upgraded my ender 3 about a year ago to the Duet 2 Wifi. I cannot get the right settings on my heaters. I printed ABS with the stock ender 3 board (probably why it burned up). Since switching I can't get the hotend hot enough to print ABS. It is not hot enough to get a good flow rate through the nozzle. Please help!

                      Phaedruxundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • Vetiundefined
                        Veti
                        last edited by

                        be careful the ender 3 hotend has the ptfe tube down to the nozzle. printing at abs temperatures can cause the ptfe to start giving off harmful gases.

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                        • Phaedruxundefined
                          Phaedrux Moderator @tompoper
                          last edited by

                          @tompoper you may have a temperature limit set which prevents it from getting hotter. But as veti says it's not really a good idea to print abs with the stock ender 3 hotend unless your abs will work at the lower temp range. Perhaps switching to a different filament would be best? There are some lower temp ABS out there. Or maybe petg would suffice.

                          Z-Bot CoreXY Build | Thingiverse Profile

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                          • tompoperundefined
                            tompoper
                            last edited by

                            @Veti and @Phaedrux, thanks gents. I appreciate the advice about the off gassing from the ptfe tubing at higher temps. I am aware of this issue. I have a well ventilated area in which I print. I am in the process of swapping over to a hyper cube evolution, fully enclosed with a VOC filter installed. I just have a few more prints to get through. One of the reasons I need to figure out the temp setting on the Ender 3.

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