Installing Duet Maestro in FlashForge Creator Pro (2016)
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It's not finished but here is the link to the Guide
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Guide/Duet+2+Maestro+in++FlashForge+Creator+Pro+(2016)+and+a+smart+12864+LCD/57so far I was not able to get smart graphic 12864 LCD to work and my heat bed temperature is off.
Please comment here on corrections for the guide as well.
Thank you.
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The Duet Maestro was advertised to support 12864 LCD display and I am currently searching on how to get it working.
according to https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Gcode#Section_M918_Configure_direct_connect_display
it says "dumb LCD or similar display. Supported on Duet 2 Maestro."
uh oh, so I have a smart graphic 12864 LCD, from sainsmart but similar to https://reprap.org/wiki/RepRapDiscount_Full_Graphic_Smart_Controller.
so I need a dumb one and not a smart?
is there a such thing as a dumb one?, I never seen one, maybe it's a mistake on Duet's guide. -
@Fireflynj the 12864 display is considered "dumb" in the sense that it does not have microprocessor to communicate with the Duet like the PanelDue does. That said the wording was confusing in the documentation so i have updated it. A 12864 based display should work.
Have you seen this:
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Duet_2_Maestro_12864_display_menu_systemAlso when you say it does not work, in what sense does it not work?
Also i note in your guide you have
M918 P1 E1 F2000000a value if E1 is not typical.P.S.Thanks for doing the guide!
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The display is completely is blank just like it is off.
I got the files for menu from https://github.com/mudcruzr/Duet-Maestro-12864-Menu-Files
the config tool generated > M918 P1 E4 F2000000 ; configure direct-connect display
I think I tried E1 because someone posted it worked for them and I did not put E4 back. -
The smart graphic 12864 LCD works very well on the Maestro.
Maybe you have mixed up connectors for COM1 and COM2?
My code in config.g is:
M918 P1 -
I read EXP1 is for SD card and EXP2 is display, but I did try both. Could you confirm which you used? I know the unit works because I took it off my DIY RAMPS printer that I retired.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1290318 -
some reprap clone lcd have reversed connectors.
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You have to use both...
Connect EXP1 to EXP1 and EXP2 to EXP2 -
Well I finally had the guts to try the "clone backwards" issue. And it worked! That is very weird that it worked on the Ramps set up fine but not on the Maestro.
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So I think I figured out why some of these clone RepRap discount smart graphic controllers have backwards connectors, you see two different connector types, some of these PCB has the marking of a 90 degree bend connector and are fitted with a straight connector which will reverse the pins.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7O0wmhFYwlGOHpac243Wm5IN0dfQ01yajdURmdxb0F0dXBv
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7O0wmhFYwlGRDhjZ1FzbnZSbUlBcDFDZ1M3R2VOTk1oZDFV
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7O0wmhFYwlGQmo0VUVUdC1LMmxqdUxPaHRVLVJKOE84cHcwtrying to get the pictures in post. upload is not working, I keep getting parsing server error
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The 12864 display pinout used on the Duet Maestro conforms to the pinout used on the original RepRapDiscount display. The clones of that controller that are widely sold on Amazon and eBay mostly use the same pinout. Sadly, there are some semi-clones that use the reverse connection.
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edit . . . , removed because I made an error
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Ok, so this is the homing file that was generated, it is using H1 instead of S1?
what is the deal with that?; homey.g
; called to home the Y axis
;
; generated by RepRapFirmware Configuration Tool v2.1.2 on Thu Nov 14 2019 11:58:35 GMT-0500 (Eastern Standard Time)
G91 ; relative positioning
G1 H2 Z5 F6000 ; lift Z relative to current position
G1 H1 Y150 F1800 ; move quickly to Y axis endstop and stop there (first pass)
G1 H2 Y-5 F6000 ; go back a few mm
G1 H1 Y150 F360 ; move slowly to Y axis endstop once more (second pass)
G1 H2 Z-5 F6000 ; lower Z again
G90 ; absolute positioning -
@Fireflynj said in Installing Duet Maestro in FlashForge Creator Pro (2016):
Ok, so this is the homing file that was generated, it is using H1 instead of S1?
what is the deal with that?; homey.g
; called to home the Y axis
;
; generated by RepRapFirmware Configuration Tool v2.1.2 on Thu Nov 14 2019 11:58:35 GMT-0500 (Eastern Standard Time)
G91 ; relative positioning
G1 H2 Z5 F6000 ; lift Z relative to current position
G1 H1 Y150 F1800 ; move quickly to Y axis endstop and stop there (first pass)
G1 H2 Y-5 F6000 ; go back a few mm
G1 H1 Y150 F360 ; move slowly to Y axis endstop once more (second pass)
G1 H2 Z-5 F6000 ; lower Z again
G90 ; absolute positioningS is being used for laser mode, so H has taken it's place.
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Thank you for that info!
so now I got an issue where my stepper motors on extruder creating interference to the Thermocouplers. I am looking for some kind of shielding now. but I thought i'll ask what did anyone else do to fix this? which option best or works, shielding thermocoupler wires or stepper motor wires?, or twisted pair wires on stepper motors? -
@Fireflynj said in Installing Duet Maestro in FlashForge Creator Pro (2016):
Thank you for that info!
so now I got an issue where my stepper motors on extruder creating interference to the Thermocouplers. I am looking for some kind of shielding now. but I thought i'll ask what did anyone else do to fix this? which option best or works, shielding thermocoupler wires or stepper motor wires?, or twisted pair wires on stepper motors?I try to keep all wire pairs twisted. If you can get shielding or distance between the wires that's even better.
It can also help to ground the motors and printer frame.
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@Fireflynj said in Installing Duet Maestro in FlashForge Creator Pro (2016):
Thank you for that info!
so now I got an issue where my stepper motors on extruder creating interference to the Thermocouplers. I am looking for some kind of shielding now. but I thought i'll ask what did anyone else do to fix this? which option best or works, shielding thermocoupler wires or stepper motor wires?, or twisted pair wires on stepper motors?Thermocouples are most sensitive to inductive interference, so use twisted pair stepper motor cables, 1 pair for each phase. I assume your thermocouple wires are already twisted pair.
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Ok, I made progress. I took the time to pull stepper wires out and twisted each pair, tedious task that needed to be done, Whew! I also lowered the stepper motors amps but, I still had to pull the Thermocoupler wires out of the umbilical cord, as it was still picking up noise, yes it was also twisted. I thought of using shielded Ethernet wire but I don't have anymore crimps left.
Thank you. -
Crimps are readily available in most countries on eBay and Amazon. See https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Connector_and_spare_part_numbers. At least one of or distributors (Filastruder) sells a kit of spare connectors.
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I stalled on this project, looking at finishing it.
