Hello, am new here but not a newbie as such.
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@FuseDeep You can either upload code directly from the slicer or upload the file through the web browser. No need to remove the SD card.
You have full control via the web browser. As well as pausing etc, you can home, run macros, send gcode etc. Its very versatile.
For connecting, you can either assign a static ip address and connect to it directly or you can run a router. For ease, I would go the router route so you can connect to it wirelessly. -
Thanks, I have been just saving the sliced file to the SD card via a cable connection then unplugging and selecting the file via a touch screen. Suppose the eqv is to do it via the browser.
A router won't really work will it? Or will it still be a hub just with no ADSL element? I assume.
wifi connections can be, and often are torturous in my experience. that includes ad hoc etc.
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I use cura to automatically upload and start prints.
A router doesn't require an internet connection to function so you'll be ok there. You're only connecting to something where everything is served locally.
My wifi is ok. I am always using my phone to monitor prints. I also have a wifi camera attached to my printer to allow me to keep an eye on things. -
@FuseDeep said in Hello, am new here but not a newbie as such.:
@jay_s_uk
...............So if I got the wifi duet 2 I could drop an STL onto the onboard SD card (not necessarily the screen SD) and activate the print from a browser on my phone?I hope that was a typo and you meant a gcode file rather than an STL.
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This may be instructive.
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@deckingman yes. brainfart!
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Morning all, thanks for your help recently. Have been distracted by a recent major show of 2 of my sculpture pieces (each partially 3dprinted) at Tate Late:
However...now back to Fusedeep!
Regarding the DUET wifi/Ethernet. Not all my laptops have Ethernet ports and am not always going to gave wifi hub.
Can either board just have gcode slotted in via SD card (appreciate both have an SD card firmware file also) . If I understand it correctly, the gcode of a print and firmware settings go in on the same SD card and it fires up. that would seem to be what i need?
If I know that no matter what I can use a screen to start a print via SD card (regardless of wifi/ethernet) then I will probably go wifi (though 2 duet experienced friends advised against it!).
your advice appreciated. Bit conflicted currently but like the simple on card option with screen. Reliable if i am in the middle of a field, and yest, this is very possible.
R
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@FuseDeep Basically everything runs off the SD card. Once a print has started, you can disconnect and even switch off any computers that are attached and the printer will run quite happily. Of course, you won't have any means of monitoring what's going on, nor will you be able to stop or pause a print. So adding something like a panel due might be your best option.
Edit. If you are in the middle of field, you'll need some means of generating electricity or a big 24V battery
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@FuseDeep from your description i think you have two general options:
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Add a PanelDue and connect it using the short ribbon cable. then you can use the SD card slot on the panel due to print from. This is better than constantly removing and re-inserting the SD card on the Duet itself as its easier to get to.
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Set a Duet 2 Wifi up in access point mode. In that mode you can connect to it like a wifi hotspot from a laptop/phone or tablet.
How to setup the access point details:
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Gcode#Section_M589_Configure_access_point_parameters
The changes needed to M552 netwroking command in config.g to start networking as an access point.
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Gcode#Section_M552_Set_IP_address_enable_disable_network_interface
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Thanks all.
Power, yes. Am looking at 24v battery, solar and other methods. @Fusedeep is designed to travel and be rugged (hence no oily profile rails).
Also, in my experience relying on any data network is always a no no for many many many reasons.
So wifi with the screen is a good option either way, great. Appreciate the information.
Am looking at a full re gantry of the big printer, this will substantially reduce the load on steppers (using openbuild delrin wheels, already in use on the Z guides.)
Looking forward to having it reliable and much less hassle.
R
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@FuseDeep said in Hello, am new here but not a newbie as such.:
.................Power, yes. Am looking at 24v battery, solar and other methods...................
In that case you might find something interesting in this post that I made on my blog a few weeks ago https://somei3deas.wordpress.com/2019/10/22/fitting-a-dc-uninterruptible-power-supply-ups-and-separate-5v-supply/
Although strictly speaking the batteries are charged from the mains, there is no reason why they couldn't be charged from solar or any other source. To run totally "off grid" though, you'd need some pretty hefty batteries to handle a heated bed. In the post that I linked too, my bed is mains powered so in the event of a prolonged power outage, it will eventually cool to the point where a part might become unattached. But then at a pinch you could always resort to the old cold bed/painters tape method.......
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HI @deckingman
Yes, have been looking at my options for a few years and have a Narrowboat on the Thames the last 7 yrs (where I ran a Makergear M2 for 18 months about 5 yrs back).
Lot's to consider. First off, lighten the gantry and a new control method...I do not use a heated bed so actually only a few amps needed really. 6 to 8 maximum so a decent battery lasts a surprising time. Plus the big LION domestic batteries are quite light and offer 100% capacity compared to lead acid etc.
Will report!
Thanks R
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I get great results with blue tape on normal glass bed and use a decent brim. never had any problems. I print mostly vase prints anyway for speed so even more reliable stress wise in the part printing.
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@FuseDeep Then you should get a really long run time on battery power. I wouldn't worry too much about lightening the gantry as any savings from reducing the motor current by sat 100mA will be minimal IMO. My CoreXYUVAB with all 6 motors (two of which are Nema 23s) showed a voltage drop of about 0.5 V after over an hour and that was starting with batteries in there "as received" charge state.
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@deckingman The gantry lightening effort (as above) is more about suitability for purpose.
The IGUS set up is incredible but too tough for the dynamic needed imo, it has 20mm width M5 or 6 teeth pitch set up for example on a 600mm square set up! Just too much resistance. I may be proved wrong. But my feeling is to keep it simple/simpler.
Am going for 9mm GT3 M5 belts and looking forward to making an openbuild/v wheel wheel roller set up as I have a Tonka alu frame set up already.
Nice tech. simple too. Most likely ordering from ooznest.
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@FuseDeep Again for info, my CoreXYUVAB is built using OpenBuilds VSlot and has a moving mass of around 5Kgs split between 2 gantries which all works just fine using 6mm belts. I can also say that I've always had great service from Ooznest.
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@deckingman Cool, thanks . Will report...
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OK, have ordered a DUET 2 and wifi antennae plus the 5" screen. I did wonder if there was a connector bundle to go with it? looking at the board connections. I do have plug maker here, but find the pin work painful!
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@FuseDeep said in Hello, am new here but not a newbie as such.:
OK, have ordered a DUET 2 and wifi antennae plus the 5" screen. I did wonder if there was a connector bundle to go with it? looking at the board connections. I do have plug maker here, but find the pin work painful!
A connector kit comes with. You will need a simple crimper, nothing fancy. Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/IWISS-Harness-Crimping-Computer-Automotive/dp/B01M1YK5FM/
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In general, going OK, am fully rehashing the XY gantry with open beam. Nice and simple meccano for grown ups. Enjoying belting up too, combining GT2 on a nema 17 and GT3 on both sides of X.
Looks like it will be 2x Nema 23 for X and 1x NEMA17 for Y so will be looking to run 2 Nema 23 at full power from either the same signal (one reversed) or use two Duet outputs, one reversed.
Have not even started to look at a DUET file yet. IS there an example file of a fairly normal Cartesian set up file I can start to get my head round please?
Also need to look at links above in relation to the basics. will do.
Cheers R
