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    • patmurphyp9undefined
      patmurphyp9
      last edited by

      Hi, I recently bought a duet 2 wifi board. I received the board yesterday and trying to get is all set up. but it does not do what it is supposed to and on the documentation, it says that there should be three lights that turn on, only one is on. I don't know if the board has a fault but I haven't even had time to make any connections and have not done anything else to the board to damage it. I was wondering who I might be able to talk to to get a replacement or if they know what the problem is. I have taken pictures to prove and have contacted the resaler E3D Online IMG-7080.JPG IMG-7081.JPG IMG-7082.JPG any help would be greatly appreciated

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      • jens55undefined
        jens55
        last edited by

        It looks like you haven't connected any power wires to the board ....
        You can't expect everything to light up like it should if you haven't connected power.

        patmurphyp9undefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • A Former User?
          A Former User
          last edited by A Former User

          (i think?) 3.3v should light up with usb power. Can you get a close up of U3 over by the Vin/Bed terminals?

          patmurphyp9undefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • patmurphyp9undefined
            patmurphyp9
            last edited by

            i will do that now

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            • patmurphyp9undefined
              patmurphyp9 @jens55
              last edited by

              @jens55 I have also just to show you i=have plugged everything in to see if that would work but still not getting any 3.3v power or connectivityIMG-7084.JPG IMG-7083.JPG

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              • Phaedruxundefined
                Phaedrux Moderator
                last edited by

                Laptops don't always provide adequate usb power as well. Try a different port or a PC. Not all USB cables are adequate for power either.

                If you have a PSU ready and waiting, may be worth trying to connect 12v/24v from the PSU.

                Z-Bot CoreXY Build | Thingiverse Profile

                patmurphyp9undefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • patmurphyp9undefined
                  patmurphyp9 @Phaedrux
                  last edited by

                  @Phaedrux I just tried that and nothing changed, but the always-on fan is working

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                  • patmurphyp9undefined
                    patmurphyp9
                    last edited by

                    would it be possible a fuse is blown because of the only thing that isn't working is the 3 volt supply

                    A Former User? 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • patmurphyp9undefined
                      patmurphyp9 @A Former User
                      last edited by

                      @bearer IMG-7085.JPG

                      droftartsundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • A Former User?
                        A Former User @patmurphyp9
                        last edited by

                        @patmurphyp9 said in board not working:

                        would it be possible a fuse is blown because of the only thing that isn't working is the 3 volt supply

                        I don't think so. but if you have a meter you could always measure them.

                        the picture of U3 and surrounding area isn't very clear the only thing that stands out is something between the end of R85(?) and U3 but I cant tell if its a solder bridge, silscreen, maube those pads should be connected and its not a problem. But as you've tried different cables and different supplies I guess one of the admins will drop by and weigh in

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                        • droftartsundefined
                          droftarts administrators @patmurphyp9
                          last edited by

                          @patmurphyp9 I agree with @bearer, looks like there’s something between U3 and R85. This may be shorting out 3.3V. If you have a multimeter, it would be good to test for 3.3V on a pin on the expansion header, just in case it’s the LED that’s failed. Have you tried connecting to it using YAT?

                          Otherwise, if you have a soldering iron and a steady hand, and feel like cleaning up the possible bridge between U3 and R85, to see if that cures it, that’s fine.

                          If none of those options work for you, I’m happy to authorise a warranty replacement. Contact E3D referencing this thread.

                          Ian
                          Duet3D support

                          Bed-slinger - Mini5+ WiFi/1LC | RRP Fisher v1 - D2 WiFi | Polargraph - D2 WiFi | TronXY X5S - 6HC/Roto | CNC router - 6HC | Tractus3D T1250 - D2 Eth

                          A Former User? patmurphyp9undefined 2 Replies Last reply Reply Quote 0
                          • A Former User?
                            A Former User @droftarts
                            last edited by

                            @droftarts said in board not working:

                            just in case it’s the LED that’s failed.

                            👍 didn't even cross my mind.
                            the potential bridge bugged me a little as its on the 5v regulator and it does light up the 5v led so would expect u2 to get 5v and do its job.

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                            • patmurphyp9undefined
                              patmurphyp9 @droftarts
                              last edited by

                              @droftarts yes I have tried connecting it using YAT and I didn't even get a port response. I did check and there was something between the connection and I was able to blow it off, I tried again turning on the board but the same problem is there. I checked the 7.5A fuse and it is intact, and I have used a multimeter and I'm not seeing 3.3v anywhere closeIMG-7086.JPG

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                              • A Former User?
                                A Former User
                                last edited by

                                Just for my curiosity could you put your negative probe on the big tab on U2 and measure against pin 1 and 3 (i.e the two outermost pins on each side) and post the two voltages.

                                You don't have to though, I'd contact E3D and arranged for a replacement if I were you.

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                                • dc42undefined
                                  dc42 administrators
                                  last edited by

                                  I agree, please ask E3D to replace the Duet. With nothing else connected to the Duet, the 3.3V LED should light even when using USB power.

                                  Duet WiFi hardware designer and firmware engineer
                                  Please do not ask me for Duet support via PM or email, use the forum
                                  http://www.escher3d.com, https://miscsolutions.wordpress.com

                                  patmurphyp9undefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                  • patmurphyp9undefined
                                    patmurphyp9 @dc42
                                    last edited by

                                    @dc42 Is there anything that I could do to fix it myself, and or is there a common issue/part to fix. I have contacted e3d and still waiting

                                    A Former User? 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                    • A Former User?
                                      A Former User @patmurphyp9
                                      last edited by

                                      @patmurphyp9 said in board not working:

                                      Is there anything that I could do to fix it myself

                                      https://raw.githubusercontent.com/T3P3/Duet/master/Duet2/Duet2v1.04/DuetWifiv1.04a_Schematic.pdf

                                      if you can read the schematic and replace smd parts, then sure, no problem. if not you'll have to determine exactly what is the problem first. i.e. is it U2 not generating 3.3v or is it some of the devices using 3.3v that have failed and are shorting out the 3.3v rail?

                                      a good start is to measure the voltages I asked for as it'll go a long way towards answering oart of that and directing the next step.

                                      on the other hand of you're not confident you can fix it, its probably better to wait for the replacement.

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