My 6 input (5+1) mixing hot end
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@fma said in My 6 input (5+1) mixing hot end:
I'm wondering how these heatbreaks are made: are they just brut force-fitted?
The Mosquito ones? I wish I knew. I've asked the question of Slice Engineering but they didn't answer - guess it's a trade secret.
To me, as an engineer, it's some sort of dark magic. The tubes are really, really, seriously, thin - very easy to bend or crush (I know from experience). So if they are press fit, then they must use a tool of some sort which is very good fit inside the tube to prevent it from crushing. Even then, I can't see how it can be a press fit. But the magic doesn't end there because they are stainless steel tubes, fitted inside a copper nut. Copper has a much higher coefficient of thermal expansion than stainless steel, so one would expect the tubes to come loose at high temperature but they don't. Maybe they use some sort of high temperature adhesive but there is no sign of any residue.
If I knew the answer, then it would reasonably easy to replicate using thin wall 4mm ID stainless tube which would take a PTFE liner, instead of the 2mm that Slice Engineering use.
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Perhaps by using hot crimping?
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@fma said in My 6 input (5+1) mixing hot end:
Perhaps by using hot crimping?
Perhaps. But the copper part of the heat breaks tend to change colour after they have been heated and there is no sign that has happened in the "as received" condition.
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They may cool down the stainless steel tube with liquid nitrogen...
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By way of an update if anyone is interested...........
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VQdoTJMsHGo
and
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it is alive!!!
AWESOME question, the acrylic "flow visualiser" with thermal probe - you made it or you purchased it ?
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@arhi said in My 6 input (5+1) mixing hot end:
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question, the acrylic "flow visualiser" with thermal probe - you made it or you purchased it ?You haven't been paying attention have you?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hai_zqtcauQ&t=145sand
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B078PFRG74/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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@deckingman said in My 6 input (5+1) mixing hot end:
@arhi said in My 6 input (5+1) mixing hot end:
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question, the acrylic "flow visualiser" with thermal probe - you made it or you purchased it ?You haven't been paying attention have you?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hai_zqtcauQ&t=145sand
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B078PFRG74/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I haven't watched it yet Ian but have you connected the Temp monitor to the Duet if not the Water-cooled PC guys do a sensor that is in fact a 10K thermistor which work quite well with the Duet.
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@Dougal1957 said in My 6 input (5+1) mixing hot end:
@deckingman said in My 6 input (5+1) mixing hot end:
@arhi said in My 6 input (5+1) mixing hot end:
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question, the acrylic "flow visualiser" with thermal probe - you made it or you purchased it ?You haven't been paying attention have you?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hai_zqtcauQ&t=145sand
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B078PFRG74/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I haven't watched it yet Ian but have you connected the Temp monitor to the Duet if not the Water-cooled PC guys do a sensor that is in fact a 10K thermistor which work quite well with the Duet.
You need to catch up too Doug
Short answer (as you haven't been watching my videos), is no - that sensor just happened to be bundled with the flow meter so I bunged it on the printer because why not? I will be fitting a temperature sensor of some sort that I can connect to the Duet for monitoring purposes. No point in controlling the pump speed as it's almost silent, so I'm happy enough with the current arrangement which is to turn it thermostatically when the hot end temp>50 deg C. But It might be nice to take some action via a macro/conditional gcode if the coolant temperature exceeds some pre-determined value. -
@deckingman said in My 6 input (5+1) mixing hot end:
You haven't been paying attention have you?
watched the video but missed that flow thingy the first time
.. probbly something distracted me .. and since I use very different water arrangement (submerged pump, long hard pipes - ones ppl use for pluming that you heat weld, heat exchanger, pump, 10m away from the device .. ) I did not pay too much attention at your pluming work as is too different from mine .. you have it as a single portable device and I kinda created some plumming in my work room that handles watercooling different devices.. but this flow visualiser looks interesting so I'm def. getting one -
@arhi said in My 6 input (5+1) mixing hot end:
but this flow visualiser looks interesting
so I'm def. getting one I wouldn't have thought that it would be too difficult to print or otherwise make something similar. My initial idea was to make something like a paddle on an arm that would sit in the coolant pipework and get deflected be the flow. The arm would then trigger a microswitch which would light an LED to show that the flow was healthy. But then I saw that flow meter thing and it was cheap so..... It's just handy to have a visual re-assurance that all is well with the coolant circulation.
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@deckingman said
Copper has a much higher coefficient of thermal expansion than stainless steel, so one would expect the tubes to come loose at high temperature but they don't. Maybe they use some sort of high temperature adhesive but there is no sign of any residue.
If I knew the answer, then it would reasonably easy to replicate using thin wall 4mm ID stainless tube which would take a PTFE liner, instead of the 2mm that Slice Engineering use.
- Copper and stainless steel have virtually identical coefficients.
- If the copper side is doing it job correctly, the junction of the two metals doesn't actually heat up much beyond room temp.
- Press-fitting stainless steel into copper is very easy, as stainless is much much harder than copper (which is basically cheese in comparison).
The trick is to design an assembly jig that both constrains the exterior of the tube and has an internal pin (as you say). That combination will prevent the tube from buckling or bending and it can be pressed in using an arbour press or whatever you have handy.
The biggest challenge is machining the copper, which is a pain.
Properly designed press-fits are a great way to build a hotend, you just end up spending a couple of hundred bucks on tooling up front.
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@deckingman, it's great to see that you have the hot end working! Does it mix the colours better than the Diamond did?
Edit: I just realised you posted two videos yesterday, not one, and you showed the mixing in the first one.
Duet WiFi hardware designer and firmware engineer
Please do not ask me for Duet support via PM or email, use the forum
http://www.escher3d.com, https://miscsolutions.wordpress.com -
@dc42 Better yes, but still some way to go. Comparison and fuller explanation in the first video I linked to - this one https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VQdoTJMsHGo
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@Dougal1957 said in My 6 input (5+1) mixing hot end:
Ian
Have a look at https://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/XSPC-G14-Plug-with-10k-Sensor-Chrome_73938.html
Cheers Doug. Not sure where I'd be able to fit that particular one. But waterproof NTC thermistors are not hard to find. Something like this might be a better option for me https://www.amazon.co.uk/SODIAL-thermistor-temperature-sensor-waterproof/dp/B01EIYCW5O
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@deckingman I used something like https://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/BitsPower-T-adapter-3x-IG14-inches-matt-black_57666.html with a barb at each end is currently unused mail me your address and I'll send the set down to you.
Doug
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It's been a while but here is a bit of an update is anyone is interested.
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@deckingman
looks very good, can't wait to see it print.
Maybe I'm wrong, but there seems to be no nozzle-tip? Aren't you afraid the block will scrape along the fresh print and collect more and more filament? -
@o_lampe said in My 6 input (5+1) mixing hot end:
....... Maybe I'm wrong, but there seems to be no nozzle-tip? Aren't you afraid the block will scrape along the fresh print and collect more and more filament?
That made me chuckle. I thought it was fairly obvious that the base had an M6 tapped hole in it to take any standard threaded nozzle (I just hadn't got around to screwing one in when I took those pictures).
