ST3Di Modelsmart 280 - Duet Maestro repair/upgrade
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I made some progress last night. Having updated the Duet to 3.2 I wanted to create a base config and see if I could get the printer to at least power up. I was able to connect the X,Y & Z motors, plus two end stops (the X end stop is the servo controlled probe. I was able to home Y and Z and control them via the web interface. I then connected the heated bed and ran the autotune. It completed and the bed was holding temp which is good.
I don't fully understand the config setup using the webtool, if someone can explain it in simple terms to me that could be helpful.
So all in all good progress, well I felt happy. I keep avoiding how to connect up the print heads and associated components. Advice on this area would be welcome. What seems easiest is if I can reuse the existing wiring from the components with the ribbon and then connect from the ribbon to the Duet. I have some Dupont cables which can connect to the ribbon. My issue remains how things were connected. It seems multiple components are taking power from the same pins. Using my crude schematic I identified those pins with a single feed and traced it to the respective component. See the highlighted paths.
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multiple power from the same pin is fine as all the mosfets switch to ground.
Main thing to think about is the total amount of power being drawn of the appropriate output is used.
What bits are you confused with with the config tool? It won't be able to cover all setup requirements and is really only used as a base for configuration.
Owns various duet boards and is the main wiki maintainer for the Teamgloomy LPC/STM32 port of RRF. Assume I'm running whatever the latest beta/stable build is
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So the motors have a pin to pin mapping. The probe\end stop has one but shared power circuits, the servo has a single feed to one pin with shared power, the hot ends have a single pin but share power also. This seems to make things complicated if I try to map this to the Duet. So I'm thinking I can use the spare wires in the ribbon plus an additional one if required and then wire back to the Duet at the other end. This way all the power circuits are kept seperate..
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@jay_s_uk said in ST3Di Modelsmart 280 - Duet Maestro repair/upgrade:
multiple power from the same pin is fine as all the mosfets switch to ground.
Main thing to think about is the total amount of power being drawn of the appropriate output is used.
What bits are you confused with with the config tool? It won't be able to cover all setup requirements and is really only used as a base for configuration.
Thanks, that's helpful to know. This is the area I do not understand currently....
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what software does the printer originally run?
Owns various duet boards and is the main wiki maintainer for the Teamgloomy LPC/STM32 port of RRF. Assume I'm running whatever the latest beta/stable build is
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thats the difficult part.
is there any way you can get documentation as to what the exact model number is of the thermistor?
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@jay_s_uk said in ST3Di Modelsmart 280 - Duet Maestro repair/upgrade:
what software does the printer originally run?
No idea. I was able to get it working with Cura and outputting gcode based on marlin but that's it. There was no way to access the FW etc.
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you may have to either take a punt on the thermistors as something like 3950's or 4092's.
Other than that you'll have to change them so you know exactly what you they are.
I've just had a quick google and nothing has come up. -
first measure the resistance at room temperature so that you can determine that it is a 100k ntc thermistor
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@Veti said in ST3Di Modelsmart 280 - Duet Maestro repair/upgrade:
thats the difficult part.
is there any way you can get documentation as to what the exact model number is of the thermistor?
Would there be anything on the part itself to provide a clue? I can go check.
I changed the R25 number based on what I'd seen others use. On initial test of the bed heater it threw an error as heating too slowly. I ran autotune and it then would heat up to 80c without error. I've a lot to learn.....
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@Blacksheep99 said in ST3Di Modelsmart 280 - Duet Maestro repair/upgrade:
I changed the R25 number based on what I'd seen others use.
the settings are specific for your thermistor model.
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@Veti to be clear, on the bed there are the power cables and then the thermistor cables right?
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@Veti said in ST3Di Modelsmart 280 - Duet Maestro repair/upgrade:
@Blacksheep99 said in ST3Di Modelsmart 280 - Duet Maestro repair/upgrade:
I changed the R25 number based on what I'd seen others use.
the settings are specific for your thermistor model.
Understood, thanks.
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@Blacksheep99 said in ST3Di Modelsmart 280 - Duet Maestro repair/upgrade:
to be clear, on the bed there are the power cables and then the thermistor cables right?
that is normally the case
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can you post a picture of the thermistor?
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Each heater is 120x150mm
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@Blacksheep99 said in ST3Di Modelsmart 280 - Duet Maestro repair/upgrade:
The probe\end stop has one but shared power circuits, the servo has a single feed to one pin with shared power, the hot ends have a single pin but share power also.
Shared +5V or +3.3v power and ground to the Z probe and the endstops is OK, if they use the same power voltage. Sharing power with the servo is also OK if they all need +5V power.
Shared +VIN power to two heaters is OK as long as the cable can handle the current for two heaters.
Duet WiFi hardware designer and firmware engineer
Please do not ask me for Duet support via PM or email, use the forum
http://www.escher3d.com, https://miscsolutions.wordpress.com -
@dc42 said in ST3Di Modelsmart 280 - Duet Maestro repair/upgrade:
@Blacksheep99 said in ST3Di Modelsmart 280 - Duet Maestro repair/upgrade:
The probe\end stop has one but shared power circuits, the servo has a single feed to one pin with shared power, the hot ends have a single pin but share power also.
Shared +5V or +3.3v power and ground to the Z probe and the endstops is OK, if they use the same power voltage. Sharing power with the servo is also OK if they all need +5V power.
Shared +VIN power to two heaters is OK as long as the cable can handle the current for two heaters.
Thanks @dc42 I'll check the above. The two heaters are using the installed cabling so I should assume that it is up to the task. I am using the same PSU etc.
