Motors for duet 2 wifi
-
@mendelevium Can you post your config.g, or at least the part that has the motor configuration? I think you're just trying to run the Z axis too fast for the motors, or possibly you have the microstepping set too high. Generally, you do not need to move the Z very fast; F100 is 1.6mm/s, F500 is 8.3mm/s and F1000 is 16.6mm/s, which would be extraordinarily fast for Z! However, it does sound like the existing Z motors are not strong enough for the job.
Ian
Bed-slinger - Mini5+ WiFi/1LC | RRP Fisher v1 - D2 WiFi | Polargraph - D2 WiFi | TronXY X5S - 6HC/Roto | CNC router - 6HC | Tractus3D T1250 - D2 Eth
-
@mendelevium I use a ac120 volt silicon pad stuck to the bottom of my bed. It is a 750 watt heater. The heater I run is similar to this one,https://www.amazon.com/approx-KEENOVO-Universal-Flexible-Silicone/dp/B00V81ZI70.
It heats up quickly. It is powered through an SSR controlled by the duet board.
If you go that route look into adding a thermal fuse inline to one of the power wires going directly to the bed heater. That way if the SSR ever fails you won't burn you house or business down. SSR's fail in the closed position which will keep your bed heater heating up even if the duet tries to shut it off. They come in different temp settings. Once they blow you have to replace them, as they can't be reset. Good cheap insurance.It has a built in thermistor which works fine. If you drill a small hole in the side of your bed plate you can add another thermistor in the small hole and get a better overall temp reading of the bed.
Also buy a good SSR, not a cheap Chinese knockoff. I've been set up this way for several years on my large printer. It runs almost 24/7 everyday cranking out parts.
Your printers sound nice, post some pictures when you get them running.
-
@droftarts said in Motors for duet 2 wifi:
@mendelevium Can you post your config.g, or at least the part that has the motor configuration? I think you're just trying to run the Z axis too fast for the motors, or possibly you have the microstepping set too high. Generally, you do not need to move the Z very fast; F100 is 1.6mm/s, F500 is 8.3mm/s and F1000 is 16.6mm/s, which would be extraordinarily fast for Z! However, it does sound like the existing Z motors are not strong enough for the job.
Ian
On larger printers we need faster Z drives. If I home my printer to Z positive (Z +465.00) then start a print it would take over 4 minutes for the table to move up into print position at F100 (1.6mm a second). I typically move my Z at 1200-1500. Works well for Z hops too. I don't add too much time to my prints z hopping during retracts.
Or maybe I just need more patience
-
@timcurtis67 That's understandable. But you've probably got something bigger than a 1.2A NEMA 17 driving it!
Ian
-
i do not have that in hand now but will post it, however I have not been very clear..
"Now when I home- if I home at F100, the homing is smooth. Even movement is smooth, however on increasing the feed, like F500, there is noise and the motors vibrate... If I increase the feed like F1000, the motors will simply vibrate and whine and do not move."The homing feed is F100.
What I referred above is the movement of the X and Y axis...
G1 XXXX F500, there is noise and the motors vibrate... If I increase the feed like F1000, the motors will simply vibrate and whine and do not movehope I have explained myself better.
-
@timcurtis67
What did you do for the heat-bed? Aluminum plate? I am a bit concerned about the possibility of warping with the heat pad under the plate and losing the flatness... -
@mendelevium said in Motors for duet 2 wifi:
If I increase the feed like F1000, the motors will simply vibrate and whine and do not move
Two likely reasons:
-
You have set the acceleration too high in the M201 command.
-
The combination of steps/mm of your machine, motor choice and supply voltage means there is insufficient supply voltage to drive the motor that fast. However, F1000 is a low speed, so that should only be the case if either your machine has a very high steps/mm value, or the motors have high inductance. Use the EMF calculator at https://www.reprapfirmware.org/ to check.
@mendelevium said in Motors for duet 2 wifi:
This printer is one of two prototypes I designed and manufactured and spent much time with it. I wish to maybe market in the future.
Definitely change to 24V power then.
-
-
my extruders/ Water cooling/ hot end   
-
@mendelevium, unfortunately the uploads attached to your last post failed. If you are using Chrome, try uploading them from Firefox instead - that's what I do when I have this problem [frequently].
-
@mendelevium said in Motors for duet 2 wifi:
@timcurtis67
What did you do for the heat-bed? Aluminum plate? I am a bit concerned about the possibility of warping with the heat pad under the plate and losing the flatness...Here is what I use for my bed.
https://www.midweststeelsupply.com/store/castaluminumplateatp5It is very stable when heating. I do have it leveled at 70C. I usually run anywhere from 60C-70C while printing. I used the 1/4" thick plate.
-
@timcurtis67
The heat-bed plate looks great. What thickness did you manage to get. The thinnest I found was 5mm. It will be a bit heavier but with ball-screws it will be more powerful... -
Some of the gear on my 3D printers. Everything manufactured in house, including the anodizing This is the Extruder I produced x 3 reduction, the water cooled hot end the water cooler.
I will load some more pics with the ball screws
-
@mendelevium said in Motors for duet 2 wifi:
@timcurtis67
The heat-bed plate looks great. What thickness did you manage to get. The thinnest I found was 5mm. It will be a bit heavier but with ball-screws it will be more powerful...I used a 1/4" thick plate for my build. 18" X 18" X .250"
That is a very nice looking extruder. Dual drive for the filament?
-
@mendelevium
I have received the steppers 60mm Nema 17 and changed the control for 24V. Runs ok and I am happy with the help you all contributed. Thank You -
@mendelevium, I'm glad it's sorted now! I'll mark this as solved.
