Duet3D PCB delta printer effector sneak preview
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Ahhh ok thanks
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They won't be in stock until next week. I put the listing up to answer some questions about the cost.
Glad to hear it! And could I order 12 not 6 Magballs as spare addon?
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@CaLviNx:
It seems that this is the first public picture of the bottom side of the printed circuit board with sensor electronics
Unfortunately, the quality of the photo is very poor and labels of IC chips are not visible.UPD: SmartEffector is called as StrainEffector 1.3 on PCB silkscreen. Maybe this is the key to unraveling the way of bed probing?
Why do you want to unravel the thing ? are you looking to reverse engineer it to rip the technology off or something ?
Off-topic but I found your question of "why" strange. Like we're unraveling the order of nature just to rip it off. It's funny because it's true.
I've gotten the impression that the people behind Duet are very OSS/RepRap-minded, a central point of which is "ripping off" without shame. Maybe your second sentence suggested commercial purposes, but that's quite a leap to infer from a mere motivation to figure out and understand how something works. -
Off-topic but I found your question of "why" strange. Like we're unraveling the order of nature just to rip it off. It's funny because it's true.
I've gotten the impression that the people behind Duet are very OSS/RepRap-minded, a central point of which is "ripping off" without shame. Maybe your second sentence suggested commercial purposes, but that's quite a leap to infer from a mere motivation to figure out and understand how something works.You can take it and infer anything from it you wish.
As Dougal already pointed out the information as to how the unit operates was ALREADY revealed.
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@CaLviNx:
As Dougal already pointed out the information as to how the unit operates was ALREADY revealed.
Only conceptually if my memory and attentiveness serve me right. I think that's beside the point anyway.
My point was that some people enjoy tearing down and reverse-engineering devices built by others, and I found your question strange especially in the broader context of 3d-printing which as a hobby still involves a lot of DIY, tinkering and generally; involvement.
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I had 50mm for some time, but I like the 40mm compact size, same as classic 40mm fans, but it can be put alongside the e3d for a narrow design. If you take time to search you'll find ones with more than 10CFM
A 40mm blower fan would certainly fit better than 50mm. I had ordered the 50mm, as it is what it on the Prusa i3 MK2 I have, and it does a fantastic job. If I can find a 40mm with a healthy CFM, that would certainly fit better on my T3P3 Kossel Mini.
Here's one possible contender (at 12V) - showing 9.5 CFM.
John
Thanks. Been looking for a fan like that for a while.
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Not having a board, that is kinda tricky, but I think it is OK, looking at the photos.
Thanks for the measurements.I hope this helps a bit more:
@__Tony__ <–--------------------------------------
The Last missing part of the puzzle (for me anyway) I have highlighted, I need the distance from the centre of the hole to the short edge of the effector
Please accept my apologies if it's out there and I have missed it
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@CaLviNx:
Not having a board, that is kinda tricky, but I think it is OK, looking at the photos.
Thanks for the measurements.I hope this helps a bit more:
Tony Last missing part of the puzzle (for me anyway) I have highlighted, I need the distance from the centre of the hole to the short edge of the effector
Please accept my apologies if it's out there and I have missed it
By calculation I would say 6.64mm the long side is 66.5 and the spacing is 55 so that is 5.75mm to the corner so I reckon the calc is 5.75/cos30+ the distance you are asking for.
Doug
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@CaLviNx:
Not having a board, that is kinda tricky, but I think it is OK, looking at the photos.
Thanks for the measurements.I hope this helps a bit more:
Tony Last missing part of the puzzle (for me anyway) I have highlighted, I need the distance from the centre of the hole to the short edge of the effector
Please accept my apologies if it's out there and I have missed it
You can print https://duet3d.com/wiki/Smart_effector_and_carriage_adapters_for_delta_printer#SmartEffector_SMT_Component_Clearances on a printer (plain old paper printer of course) , calculate a scale from any known size (distance for the ball stud holes for example) and measure any things you want.
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Based on the known dimensions, and the schematics shown, it would be between 7.8-8mm
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It's time for me to prepare wiring
so I've got a 2 wires PT100, with everything under 24v, from what I see I can use one of my 6 wire cable for Molex KK, 22AWG will do the job.
But what about the Molex Microfit, I would like to use the same cable but could I use a 22AWG for the extruder heater ? I currently have a 40w 24v cartridge, from my point of view it's OK, but I'll prefer a second advice
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It's time for me to prepare wiring
so I've got a 2 wires PT100, with everything under 24v, from what I see I can use one of my 6 wire cable for Molex KK, 22AWG will do the job.
But what about the Molex Microfit, I would like to use the same cable but could I use a 22AWG for the extruder heater ? I currently have a 40w 24v cartridge, from my point of view it's OK, but I'll prefer a second advice
1.7A current is well within ampacity of 22AWG for chassis wiring. And voltage drop of 0.2V is not much of concern for the case.
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My plan was to use fairly thin 8 core multicore cable for the signal connection (4 wire PT100 connection from the effector back to the Duet), and use the same cable for the heater/fan connector with 2 conductors in parallel for each of the heater wires. In the end I didn't change the heater and fan wires because they were already working well. I can't remember what gauge the conductors were, but the resistance per conductor was just under 0.1ohm per metre.
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@CaLviNx:
I need the distance from the centre of the hole to the short edge of the effector
x = 5.75 * sqrt(2) * cos(15) ~= 7.8546460717605222188914082318294
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I had the dimensions worked out, I just wanted Tony's confirmation.
And suddenly a lot of non Tony's jumped in !!!!
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For the cabling, I was planning on using 6 core 22awg for the heater and fan connections,
and then for the PT100 and probe connections, I have lots of stranded cat 6 that I can use. Hopefully, the probe and the PT100 won't interfere with each other? Any thoughts?
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The probe and the PT100 signals don't interfere with each other. The 8-core cable I used was this http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/multicore-industrial-cable/6604052/?sra=pstk.
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My plan was to use fairly thin 8 core multicore cable for the signal connection (4 wire PT100 connection from the effector back to the Duet), and use the same cable for the heater/fan connector with 2 conductors in parallel for each of the heater wires. In the end I didn't change the heater and fan wires because they were already working well. I can't remember what gauge the conductors were, but the resistance per conductor was just under 0.1ohm per metre.
David, how about crimping two wires in one Microfit pin, does it fit?
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The probe and the PT100 signals don't interfere with each other. The 8-core cable I used was this http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/multicore-industrial-cable/6604052/?sra=pstk.
Just to be sure; So you particularly recommend against tinning only on the ends of the cables from PSU that power the board, not on the 24V (or 12V?) terminals going from the board to the heaters?
In reference to third paragraph at Wiki: Power wiring
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It's best not to tin any of the wires that you are going to put into the terminal blocks. Crimp the ferrules supplied on the ends instead. It's OK to use pre-tinned copper wire because the tin coating is so thin.
In practice, tinning the ends of the heater wires before putting them in the terminal block is not so likely to cause problems, because they heat up less than for the VIN terminal block.
If you have tinned any wires before putting into the terminal blocks, tighten up the screws after every few hours of use. Eventually the solder will have moved out of the way and the screws will stop loosening.
