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    What would you build if you were starting again now?

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    • MikeSundefined
      MikeS @ajdtreyd
      last edited by

      @ajdtreyd My rostock max v2 is laying on the floor with 60% of parts removed (also me an user from 2014). For the last month my Voron 2.4 have printed 8 hour a day and it's working great. I would never come back to a wooden delta anymore and i'm printing faster and with more acceleration now with a direct drive extruder than with the bowden one in the rostock. Things are going only to improve with the upcoming 3.4.
      I'd like to build another delta but they need to have a really rigid frame to print reliably and also dimensional accuracy is not always so good, usually near the towers.

      ajdtreydundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • ajdtreydundefined
        ajdtreyd @MikeS
        last edited by

        @mikes

        Hehehe, yeah. My v2 sat unused in the corner for almost 2 years. In its stock form I don't think that printer found too many owners able to make it live up to the marketing claims. Like the 280mm (11 inches) diameter build area when the arms are only 270mm long. Their forums were full of complaints about print quality for anything more than 100mm from center. I guess my point is, don't judge all deltas by a really old model with poorly designed geometry and a pressboard (MDF) frame.
        After a couple years of upgrading my knowledge and my delta, I'm printing dimensionally accurate parts with no trouble. Here's a test print I did after my latest upgrade (replacing the too flexible molded cheapskates with carriages I designed and printed).

        VcubeTest.jpg

        I still needed to tune PA, used no input shaping and I used some old, loose PLA for the test print so its not as good as the printer can do. I had just watched Nero3DP's video "toasty is melting" during which he was asked what his typical print speeds and accels are. He displayed the speed/acceleration page from his SuperSlicer profile and so I used those settings to print the voron cube.

        All this said, I would recommend to anyone who has a stock v2 or v3 (or even v4 ??) not bother upgrading unless they are into it for the learning. Contrary to my belief when I started the upgrade process, it's cheaper, easier and faster to just build a new printer. You can sell the old one to someone with an unusual appreciation of nostalgia!

        • Trey
        MikeSundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • zaptaundefined
          zapta @dc42
          last edited by

          @dc42 said in What would you build if you were starting again now?:

          Basically, it's impossible to make a single board that meets all needs including CE certification and a desire for smaller size.

          Have you considered populating components on both sides, consolidating connectors, etc, to minimize size?

          A small footprint can be a strong selling point because it will simplify retrofitting existing tool head designs.

          1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • MikeSundefined
            MikeS @ajdtreyd
            last edited by

            @ajdtreyd i could write a thesis with all the edits i made to the V2. Starting from new cf arms with ball joints made by myself because at the time no one was selling it. Another cool part i made was the mount for E3d V6 (started with V5 😃 ). It was really cool to design and it has a lot better cooling and support for mini ir probe.

            7b65cae7-beb4-4bd6-af28-b7bfd17ca366-immagine.png

            dfa3f63f-17e7-45ab-936f-18c220a12718-immagine.png

            fcwiltundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
            • fcwiltundefined
              fcwilt @MikeS
              last edited by

              @mikes

              Nice graphic.

              How do you change the nozzle? The graphic doesn't show all views of the design.

              Frederick

              Printers: a small Utilmaker style, a small CoreXY and a E3D MS/TC setup. Various hotends. Using Duet 3 hardware running 3.4.6

              MikeSundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • MikeSundefined
                MikeS @fcwilt
                last edited by MikeS

                @fcwilt not perfectu but used this to assemble
                46dc5633-0f9c-4b3d-b040-06c7cfd0df4c-immagine.png

                I always used the .4 nozzle with that delta. I have a nozzle fun pack, but only used with the Voron for testing them.
                You can look it there: https://a360.co/2USEGD9

                an these are the real parts printed with the V2 (consider all belts and carriage are 6 years old and should be replaced probably)

                20210726_195057.jpg

                zaptaundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
                • zaptaundefined
                  zapta @MikeS
                  last edited by

                  I found this Knipex to work very will with my nozzle exchanges. The jaws are smooth and parallel and it has leverage that allow to easily apply sufficient force.

                  c62a9fd5-e776-48f8-ae34-c6dd6dc308db-image.png

                  MikeSundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • MikeSundefined
                    MikeS @zapta
                    last edited by

                    @zapta now i have a dragon hotend so no more problem with spinning heater block! E3D served me well in the years, but it's time for them to update their design.

                    mrehorstdmdundefined zaptaundefined 3 Replies Last reply Reply Quote 1
                    • mrehorstdmdundefined
                      mrehorstdmd @MikeS
                      last edited by

                      @mikes I gave up on the V6 a few years ago after the heat break kept loosening in the heatsink during prints. I've been using a cheapo Chinese hot-end for a few years that cost $15 when I bought it, plus replacing the supplied crappy fan with a Sunon mag-lev type for another $7. It has set screws to hold the heatbreak in the heatsink, and a metal bracket that is screwed to the heatsink to hold the fan. No more rotating heater blocks or melting, rotating fan mounts. It came with a 50W heater and cartridge type thermistor.

                      https://drmrehorst.blogspot.com/

                      fcwiltundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
                      • zaptaundefined
                        zapta @MikeS
                        last edited by

                        @mikes said in What would you build if you were starting again now?:

                        @zapta now i have a dragon hotend so no more problem with spinning heater block!

                        I also have a dragon but with a E3D round grove interface. 😉

                        Once I will have my voron up and running will see how I can convert it to the two-screws type mounting.

                        1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                        • fcwiltundefined
                          fcwilt @mrehorstdmd
                          last edited by

                          @mrehorstdmd

                          I've got a couple of "no name" units something like these.

                          The design is like the right image but with the plated copper block of the left image.

                          The fan mounts to the heat sink via the four threaded through holes - for those that like push/pull fans.

                          It doesn't use grub screws to hold the heater/thermistor cartridges which is too bad.

                          The V6 mount removes leaving two threaded holes.

                          I bought two of them to see if I liked them (I do) but now I cannot find them again. The inventory of vendors on AE seem to change with the winds.

                          Frederick

                          NoName Hotend Images.jpg

                          Printers: a small Utilmaker style, a small CoreXY and a E3D MS/TC setup. Various hotends. Using Duet 3 hardware running 3.4.6

                          1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                          • zaptaundefined
                            zapta @MikeS
                            last edited by

                            @mikes, after reading your post I looked again at my grove mounted Dragon and realized that if I remove the groove adapter, it has 4 screw holes that I can use with the Voron Dragon variant. Thanks for your post I will have a proper Dragon with a single hand nozzle replacement 😉

                            (The documentation of the Voron leaves so many details out to a point that many steps require extensive research in the Fusion 360 model, youtube, and discord).

                            MikeSundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                            • MikeSundefined
                              MikeS @zapta
                              last edited by

                              @zapta that's exactly how i mounted it. However you should always use 2 hands for nozzle swapping... twisting force on the x carriage will be a lot less and prevents damage

                              zaptaundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                              • zaptaundefined
                                zapta @MikeS
                                last edited by

                                @mikes said in What would you build if you were starting again now?:

                                However you should always use 2 hands for nozzle swapping... twisting force on the x carriage will be a lot less and prevents damage

                                Yes, I think I will do that. Also, need to make sure just to resist with the pliers and not actually turn them since this also can damage the hotend.

                                1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                • printernoodleundefined
                                  printernoodle
                                  last edited by

                                  Tiny-m - It's like a voron v.0.1 but 2020 extrusions and a bit bigger!
                                  Very fast and precise...shown here in dual material configuration.
                                  alt text

                                  zaptaundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                  • zaptaundefined
                                    zapta @printernoodle
                                    last edited by

                                    @printernoodle said in What would you build if you were starting again now?:

                                    Tiny-m - It's like a voron v.0.1 but 2020 extrusions and a bit bigger!

                                    Good choice. Large printers are overrated IMO.

                                    cosmowaveundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                    • cosmowaveundefined
                                      cosmowave @zapta
                                      last edited by

                                      @zapta Nice 👍

                                      Mankati FSXT+, DeltaTowerV2, E3D MS/TC

                                      1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
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