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    Polycarbonate build plate…. No bed heat Success!!!

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    • Whitewolfundefined
      Whitewolf
      last edited by

      These findings also seem to make a good case for using clear filament to calibrate your printer because they give you a clue when settings are negatively impacting the filament through overheating.

      Looks like I have some more tuning to do

      Exploring the universe wherever the tech blows

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      • Dougal1957undefined
        Dougal1957
        last edited by

        @o_lampe:

        I've read about polycarbonate build plates before and the tenor was, the parts often stick too good. Maybe it's the sanding, that makes all the difference? Would it work with shotblasting too? I guess it depends on the stuff you shoot at it?

        Where did you get the POM filament from? ( Why do they offer it, when it is "known" to be unprintable? )
        I've made these 2040-sliders from PTFE, but POM would be much better I guess.

        http://forums.reprap.org/file.php?131,file=95531

        Motedis sell POM Filament http://www.motedis.com/shop/3D-Filaments/3D-Filament-POM-175mm-05kg-Made-in-Europe::3540.html

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        • andreduplessisundefined
          andreduplessis
          last edited by

          This surface works really well.

          ABS printed on 80 C heatbed from https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1504207

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          • Dougal1957undefined
            Dougal1957
            last edited by

            Is that the PC Bed material?

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            • Jormaundefined
              Jorma
              last edited by

              Just some of my experiences trying to find cheap and usable filaments, I have no affiliation whatsoever with the companies:

              Hobbyking sells PA Nylon, POM and PETG filaments for very reasonable prices (little over 20$/20€ per a kilo roll).

              I can't say anything about the POM or PA yet as I don't have a suitable print surface (nor an enclosed printer) but I really like their black and white PETG (solid colors).
              It's not spooled so nicely, but the dimensional accuracy seems good and it prints very nicely and the parts are durable so it has replaced ABS for me almost completely. Hope they get more colors as well.

              I print it on ABS juice on glass with no sticking issues whatsoever (80-90 C bed / 255C hotend). AT this temp it flows really well and the parts come out durable and with very good layer adhesion. At 240C the parts tended to get harder and more brittle.

              I have also used PETG from a Czech seller (on Ebay.de) called Filament PM. Very nicely spooled and packaged and the dimensions seem good. To me it seems a tiny bit harder to print than the Hobbyking variety as it seems a bit more viscous so has to be printed a bit slower but they do have more colors. I have not made any strength comparisons but both produce definitely usable parts easily. The layer adhesion is much better than with ABS and no warping to talk about and no smell!

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              • okerchoundefined
                okercho
                last edited by

                Hi there!

                Long time since my last report here… I've great success with PLA using the PC surface, even with quite big parts. I'm still having little beding as mentioned before even if the part don't warp at all, but is barely noticeable and doesn't happen for all prints, so I'm really happy, so I tried the next step... ABS!

                Yesterday I tried to print for the first time with ABS, and I started to test the distance to the bed. I'm using 0'13mm offset for PLA (no warp, stick perfect and no elephant foot), but in order to get the ABS I had to use baby steps and get it 0'2mm closer to the surface, which doesn't make any sense... Anyway, my first print was a failure, as one of the parts stick too much (I couldn't remove it, I will need to use a sharp today and probably resand a bit) and the other warped a lot after 5 layers, so I had to stop the print...

                @Whitewolf, what do you recommend as offset for printing successfully ABS? I will continue making tests during the weekend…

                BTW, I bought some PETG and ASA from rigid.ink, but I wasn't able to test it yet...

                Regards!

                Okercho
                Custom Prusa i3 Hephestos with Duet Wi-Fi
                E3d V6 with Bondtech BMG DirectDrive and PrecisionPiezo Sensor
                Rebuilding Hypercube Evolution

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                • fmaundefined
                  fma
                  last edited by

                  As POM seems to stick on PC, what about making the bed with a POM sheet? Do you think PLA/ABS can stick on it?

                  Frédéric

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                  • T3P3Tonyundefined
                    T3P3Tony administrators
                    last edited by

                    FMA, pretty much nothing sticks to POM in my limited experience. Also POM is pricey and releases nasty gases when it is overheated.

                    www.duet3d.com

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                    • fmaundefined
                      fma
                      last edited by

                      Ok. It was just a thought…

                      Frédéric

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                      • T3P3Tonyundefined
                        T3P3Tony administrators
                        last edited by

                        Yeah it's good that we keep trying different options though. I have some PC now based on whitewolf's recommendations so hope to try it later this week

                        www.duet3d.com

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                        • DADIYundefined
                          DADIY
                          last edited by

                          Any suggestion where to get PC in the UK? All my searches turn up the clear stuff but no opaque white.

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                          • fmaundefined
                            fma
                            last edited by

                            Is opaque better?

                            Frédéric

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                            • okerchoundefined
                              okercho
                              last edited by

                              I think that it depends on the sensor you're using. If you use an optic one, you can have issues with the transparent one… for a capacitive or a piezoelectric, I don't think there is any difference, and in terms of adhesion, I cannot think in a reason why it should be different.

                              Regards

                              Okercho
                              Custom Prusa i3 Hephestos with Duet Wi-Fi
                              E3d V6 with Bondtech BMG DirectDrive and PrecisionPiezo Sensor
                              Rebuilding Hypercube Evolution

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                              • fmaundefined
                                fma
                                last edited by

                                Well, I guess opaque PC have some additional stuff, so they can change a little bit the behaviour…

                                BTW, clear PC is nice, because you can put leds all arround (if thick enough), which illuminates the printing part!

                                Frédéric

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                                • whosrdaddyundefined
                                  whosrdaddy
                                  last edited by

                                  Anyone has had success with ABS? I have tried white opaque PC (sanded according to instructions Whitewolf) but it sticks too well.
                                  The print is fused to the bed and no way to get it off without destroying it. Could it be that the Nozzle temp I am using for ABS is too high (250°C) for PC?

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                                  • number40fanundefined
                                    number40fan
                                    last edited by

                                    That does seem high to me. I get stellar prints out of ABS at 220°.

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                                    • okerchoundefined
                                      okercho
                                      last edited by

                                      I tried ABS just once @ 245°, and it didn't stick, although I think my offset to the bed is the problem. I hadn't had problems to remove the one I f***ked with a re-sanding of the PC sheet, is like before the ABS test xD.

                                      Regards

                                      Okercho
                                      Custom Prusa i3 Hephestos with Duet Wi-Fi
                                      E3d V6 with Bondtech BMG DirectDrive and PrecisionPiezo Sensor
                                      Rebuilding Hypercube Evolution

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                                      • DADIYundefined
                                        DADIY
                                        last edited by

                                        @okercho:

                                        I think that it depends on the sensor you're using. If you use an optic one, you can have issues with the transparent one… for a capacitive or a piezoelectric, I don't think there is any difference, and in terms of adhesion, I cannot think in a reason why it should be different.

                                        Regards

                                        Has anyone tested the clear PC?

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                                        • fmaundefined
                                          fma
                                          last edited by

                                          Do you want to know about adhesion or IR sensor, or… ?

                                          I made some printing tests with Clear PC, and it works fine. PLA is easy to stick/remove, and as others said, ABS is tricky, because it sticks too much. I think the first layer should be printed at a lower temp (the minimum so filament extrudes).

                                          Frédéric

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                                          • DADIYundefined
                                            DADIY
                                            last edited by

                                            @fma:

                                            Do you want to know about adhesion or IR sensor, or… ?

                                            I made some printing tests with Clear PC, and it works fine. PLA is easy to stick/remove, and as others said, ABS is tricky, because it sticks too much. I think the first layer should be printed at a lower temp (the minimum so filament extrudes).

                                            Printing, I don't have an IR sensor will be using the Smart Effector as my probe. As it works I may pick up a sheet and give it a shot.

                                            thanks

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