Prints are warping
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@infiniteloop said in Prints are warping:
@günter-jibben said in Prints are warping:
I think 400 measuring points (With a print bed size of 350x350mm) is absolute overkill
That depends: to verify the surface of your print bed, it's fine, but I agree that it consumes way too much time if you create a new mesh frequently, e.g. from your start.g.
Gruß von der Küste
I agree.
It's too much for everyday use, but to find out exactly how my record looks, especially if you plan to grind the record to see where you can grind more and where not... then I would also go to more measuring points to tend.Greetings back from the North Sea coast
Google Translate
----- Original Text -----Sehe ich auch so.
Für den Alltag ist es zu viel, aber um mal zu erfahren wie genau meine Platte aussieht, besonders wenn man vor hat die Platte zu schleifen, um zu erkennen wo man mehr schleifen darf und wo nicht... dann würde ich auch zu mehr Messpunkten tendieren.Grüße zurück von der Nordseeküste
DDA5X... 0.9° Stepper... Linearrails... Duet 2 Wifi... PT100 Board... Duet IR-Probe... Dyze Pro Kit up to 500°C.. etc
Thingiverse -
Just cleaned the X and Y wheels here is the result:
Will use G32 to level bed and then set Z offset.
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@günter-jibben said in Prints are warping:
It's too much for everyday use
Right.
Greetings back from the North Sea coast
Natürlich Nordseeküste - es kann nur eine geben
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@tratoon said in Prints are warping:
@günter-jibben And by maco method, you refer to the Post you linked in one of your previous posts, right?
Yes, exactly.
Read it to decide if it's something for you.
At least I will no longer manually adjust my print bed with a sheet of paper or a spring steel sheet.
I only need a spring steel sheet (feeler gauge) once to determine the Z offset, and then never again... unless I change the nozzle.Google Translate
----- Original Text -----Ja, genau.
Lese es Dir durch um zu entscheiden ob es etwas für Dich ist.
Ich zumindest werde mein Druckbett nicht mehr mit einem Blatt Papier oder einem Federstahlblech manuell einstellen.
Ein Federstahlblech (Fühlerlehre) brauche ich nur einmal um den Z-Offset zu ermitteln, danach nie wieder... außer ich wechsel die Düse. -
@infiniteloop said in Prints are warping:
@günter-jibben said in Prints are warping:
It's too much for everyday use
Right.
Greetings back from the North Sea coast
Natürlich Nordseeküste - es kann nur eine geben
Hehee
... Ich wohne in Norden, und hier ist es heute brütend heiß. 
DDA5X... 0.9° Stepper... Linearrails... Duet 2 Wifi... PT100 Board... Duet IR-Probe... Dyze Pro Kit up to 500°C.. etc
Thingiverse -
@tratoon said in Prints are warping:
Just cleaned the X and Y wheels here is the result:
Will use G32 to level bed and then set Z offset.
This is how you can work
DDA5X... 0.9° Stepper... Linearrails... Duet 2 Wifi... PT100 Board... Duet IR-Probe... Dyze Pro Kit up to 500°C.. etc
Thingiverse -
@günter-jibben What is the most definitive way to find the Z-Offset
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@günter-jibben said in Prints are warping:
Ich wohne in Norden, und hier ist es heute brütend heiß.
Ich auch, aber unter meiner Reetmütze bleibt es schön kühl
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@infiniteloop, @Günter-Jibben I keep getting the Z-Datum error, and I keep setting Z=0 to where a 0.04mm gauge will fit in, but it still gives me the error
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I keep setting G92 Z0, but whenever the printer finishes probing or I restart the printer, it goes back to old height
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@Günter-Jibben @infiniteloop Actual Z0 for me is -1.35 from where it is now. I set it as Z=0 using G92 Z0, but it keeps going back to the original position, after probing and after restarting the printer.
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@tratoon if you are using a probe, you shouldn't be using G92.
Set the z offset of your probe correctly in G31 in config.g. your z axis will be set to this value when the probe triggers
E3D TC with D3Mini and Toolboards.
Home-built CoreXY, Duet Wifi, Chimera direct drive, 2x BMG, 300x300x300 build volume
i3 clone with a bunch of mods -
@engikeneer But to get a Z offset, don't I need to tell the printer where Z0 is and isn't G92 telling the printer where Z0 is?
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@engikeneer So will my printer always set Z0 to where the probe is triggered, and I have to ell it (using the Z offset) where to put the nozzle in relation to the Z0, set by the probe?
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@engikeneer And how do I stop a " the height map has a substantial Z offset. Suggest use Z-probe to establish Z=0 datum, then re-probe the mesh.
30 points probed, min error -1.656, max error -1.329, mean -1.461, deviation 0.088
Height map saved to file 0:/sys/heightmap.csv" warning? -
@tratoon you can use G92 once when determining the z offset, but not after.
My preferred approach is to set G31 Z0 (I.e. zero offset). Then probe the centre of the bed with a single G30. Then move z down until the nozzle just touches your bed. For a BLTouch, should be 1-2mm ish. Whatever that value is goes in G31 Z
You can then tweak it a little bit if you find your first layer is too squished, or not squished enough
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@engikeneer Thank you very much, that solved my problem
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@tratoon re the warning message on the heightmap, you need to home z using your probe before creating your heightmap and before you load it. If you don't, it doesn't know where z=0 is (or thinks it's in the wrong place) so the heightmap ends up offset
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@engikeneer I just needed to set the Z Offset, what you are saying doesn't make sense, as the printer won't probe unless all axis are homed.
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@tratoon yes thats right.
However if you use a G92 Z0, or home Z with an endstop instead of the probe, it will allow you to run mesh, but you may get the error
Also, now you have created a mesh, you don't have to reprobe the whole bed every print, you can just load the existing heightmap that is now saved to the SD card with G29 S1. I have a 400 point mesh for my printer that takes over an hour to run, but is stable enough that I only have to redo it if I take the printer to pieces. I just have to make sure I home z with the BLTouch before I load the heightmap for each printer.
