Installing Duet Maestro in FlashForge Creator Pro (2016)

Firefly

another bump in the road, so trying to figure out why there is no normally open switch for endstops in the web config tool.

; Endstops
M574 X2 S1 P"!xstop" ; configure active-high endstop for high end on X via pin !xstop
M574 Y2 S1 P"!ystop" ; configure active-high endstop for high end on Y via pin !ystop
M574 Z1 S1 P"!zstop" ; configure active-high endstop for low end on Z via pin !zstop

so i found this comment in Gcode wiki.
Endstop type S0 (active low switch) is no longer supported in M574 commands. Instead, use type S1 and invert the input by prefixing the pin name with '!'. Ex: M574 X1 S1 P"!xstop". Invert the input when using an NPN output inductive or capacitive sensor, or using a NO switch (not recommended, use a NC switch instead).

what a pain, so now I have to rewire my end switches?
ok... I see it works, but must be a reason this should be changed.

Phaedrux

The only difference is that you use S1 and a ! instead of S0.

It's just to be more consistent with how pins are handled in RRF3.

Firefly

@Phaedrux but notice the comment still says active-high , so it's confusing

Phaedrux

No argument there. It's always been confusing. Active high and active low are esoteric concepts for most.

Firefly

Thank you @Phaedrux and @bearer for the replies, it helped me stay on it and made progress.
so firmware update is done and I printed a small test part, its working!
now I need to do BLTouch, some lighting, and make a panel to hold the LCD.

Firefly

I am still having signal issues, I need to do more then just twisted wires on stepper motors
so, is it best to shield the stepper motors or buy shielded data cable for the sensor?
I have a dual hotend , can I use a single shielded cable with 4 conductor wire or is it best to keep separate?

droftarts

@Fireflynj Using shielded, twisted pair cables for thermocouples should be sufficient, but making the sensor cable run as far as possible from the motor wires will also help. If you're still having problems, yes, shielding the motor wires, and grounding the motor case to the frame (we recommend this, see note at end of https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Choosing_and_connecting_stepper_motors#Section_Using_the_internal_drivers )

The hot ends can also be producing interference, as they are controlled by PWM, so at certain frequencies that may effect the thermocouples. When do you see interference? When motors are powered up, and/or moving, or when the hot ends are heating? If your hot ends are both mounted on a single carriage, I'd think it would be okay to use 8-core, 4-twisted-pair shielded wiring for the thermocouples. If your hot ends are independent, then you'll need separate cables going to each thermocouple.

Is there a particular reason you're using thermocouples? PT1000 don't need a daughterboard, are less susceptible to interference, are good for high temperature, and accuracy should be very good on Duet Maestro.

Ian

Firefly

@droftarts said in Installing Duet Maestro in FlashForge Creator Pro (2016):

Is there a particular reason you're using thermocouples? PT1000 don't need a daughterboard, are less susceptible to interference, are good for high temperature, and accuracy should be very good on Duet Maestro.

Ian

It is what that was on the stock printer, I converted this printer a year ago and there was no guidance to follow. so was not aware if that was a better option.
But why is the duet having issues when the stock printer worked fine with that setup?

Firefly

@droftarts said in Installing Duet Maestro in FlashForge Creator Pro (2016):

When do you see interference? When motors are powered up, and/or moving, or when the hot ends are heating?

Ian

did some testing, it happens with extruder motors are on but still, if I do M85 to turn off motors, I don't see the spikes. The hotends heating did not seem to cause any spikes. And this is with the themocouples wires pulled away far as I can.

Firefly

LOL, I'm such a slacker , so printer still here collecting dust. But also been playing with other printers.
I tried twisted wires and shielding and still getting interference on thermocouples, it's better but still gets occasional spikes that aborts the print. I guess I just have to do the PT1000 thermistors.

Firefly

Don't know why I didn't find it before, there are post about this interference on older boards (I need to check my chip) and the fix is to add capacitors, I will have to try that.

Firefly

Making progress, so added the capacitors and no more spikes on thermocouple, this was a duel extruder printer and removed one to shed weight and to simply things. Updated the firmware to 3.4 and surprised to find it now supports input shaping, so now will have to give that a try.