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Installing Duet Maestro in FlashForge Creator Pro (2016)

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Duet Hardware and wiring
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  • ?
    A Former User @Firefly
    last edited by 21 Oct 2020, 21:00

    @Fireflynj said in Installing Duet Maestro in FlashForge Creator Pro (2016):

    but I don't see anywhere saying that this firmware is for Duet 2 Maestro.
    can you confirm?

    It contains all firmwares (duet2-wifi/ethernet/maestro and duet3) when you download the .zip file

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    • undefined
      Phaedrux Moderator
      last edited by 21 Oct 2020, 21:05

      If you upload this zip file as is, without extracting it, to the system tab in DWC it should update everything needed for all Duet2 boards including the Maestro. Then do the same with the 3.1.1 zip file.

      https://github.com/Duet3D/RepRapFirmware/releases/download/3.0/Duet2and3Firmware-3.0.zip

      https://github.com/Duet3D/RepRapFirmware/releases/download/3.1.1/Duet2and3Firmware-3.1.1.zip

      Z-Bot CoreXY Build | Thingiverse Profile

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      • undefined
        Firefly @Firefly
        last edited by Firefly 21 Oct 2020, 22:29

        I got the firmware updated, whew, little scary, but learned just uploading zip files and the machine takes care of it is cool, but I have a question for @JadonM, in your instructions you said
        *upload it to your printer via the blue "Upload" button on the display tab of the web interface. *
        I use the "Upload menu files" button in display, to upload UltimateDuetMenuSystem-master.zip
        and it made a subfolder UltimateDuetMenuSystem-master
        is it suppose to be like that?
        display is still blank here and I did put the M918 P1 E-4 F2000000 code in the config.

        ? 1 Reply Last reply 21 Oct 2020, 22:36 Reply Quote 0
        • undefined
          Phaedrux Moderator
          last edited by 21 Oct 2020, 22:33

          I think you're going to need to manually place the files from UltimateDuetMenuSystem-master.zip into a folder in the root of the SD card menu.

          Z-Bot CoreXY Build | Thingiverse Profile

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          • ?
            A Former User @Firefly
            last edited by A Former User 21 Oct 2020, 22:36

            @Fireflynj subfolder sounds wrong, if getting the sd card out and into a computer is tricky you might be able to decompress the zip file, and create a new that does not have a folder in the path for the archive?

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              Firefly
              last edited by 21 Oct 2020, 22:59

              I created a new zip file and uploaded and that worked, deleting the unwanted folder is proving to be a challenge, got it emptied at least, I guess it will be fine to leave it as it is.

              undefined 1 Reply Last reply 21 Oct 2020, 23:07 Reply Quote 0
              • undefined
                Phaedrux Moderator @Firefly
                last edited by 21 Oct 2020, 23:07

                @Fireflynj said in Installing Duet Maestro in FlashForge Creator Pro (2016):

                deleting the unwanted folder is proving to be a challenge, got it emptied at least,

                Yes, there is no recursive delete in DWC. FTP can be helpful here if pulling the card is inconvient.

                Z-Bot CoreXY Build | Thingiverse Profile

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                • undefined
                  Firefly
                  last edited by Firefly 21 Oct 2020, 23:40

                  another bump in the road, so trying to figure out why there is no normally open switch for endstops in the web config tool.

                  ; Endstops
                  M574 X2 S1 P"!xstop" ; configure active-high endstop for high end on X via pin !xstop
                  M574 Y2 S1 P"!ystop" ; configure active-high endstop for high end on Y via pin !ystop
                  M574 Z1 S1 P"!zstop" ; configure active-high endstop for low end on Z via pin !zstop

                  so i found this comment in Gcode wiki.
                  Endstop type S0 (active low switch) is no longer supported in M574 commands. Instead, use type S1 and invert the input by prefixing the pin name with '!'. Ex: M574 X1 S1 P"!xstop". Invert the input when using an NPN output inductive or capacitive sensor, or using a NO switch (not recommended, use a NC switch instead).

                  what a pain, so now I have to rewire my end switches?
                  ok... I see it works, but must be a reason this should be changed.

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                  • undefined
                    Phaedrux Moderator
                    last edited by 21 Oct 2020, 23:52

                    The only difference is that you use S1 and a ! instead of S0.

                    It's just to be more consistent with how pins are handled in RRF3.

                    Z-Bot CoreXY Build | Thingiverse Profile

                    undefined 1 Reply Last reply 21 Oct 2020, 23:57 Reply Quote 0
                    • undefined
                      Firefly @Phaedrux
                      last edited by 21 Oct 2020, 23:57

                      @Phaedrux but notice the comment still says active-high , so it's confusing

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                      • undefined
                        Phaedrux Moderator
                        last edited by 22 Oct 2020, 00:00

                        No argument there. It's always been confusing. Active high and active low are esoteric concepts for most.

                        Z-Bot CoreXY Build | Thingiverse Profile

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                          Firefly
                          last edited by 23 Oct 2020, 16:13

                          Thank you @Phaedrux and @bearer for the replies, it helped me stay on it and made progress.
                          so firmware update is done and I printed a small test part, its working!
                          now I need to do BLTouch, some lighting, and make a panel to hold the LCD.

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                            Firefly
                            last edited by 27 Oct 2020, 00:41

                            I am still having signal issues, I need to do more then just twisted wires on stepper motors
                            so, is it best to shield the stepper motors or buy shielded data cable for the sensor?
                            I have a dual hotend , can I use a single shielded cable with 4 conductor wire or is it best to keep separate?

                            undefined 1 Reply Last reply 27 Oct 2020, 10:03 Reply Quote 0
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                              droftarts administrators @Firefly
                              last edited by 27 Oct 2020, 10:03

                              @Fireflynj Using shielded, twisted pair cables for thermocouples should be sufficient, but making the sensor cable run as far as possible from the motor wires will also help. If you're still having problems, yes, shielding the motor wires, and grounding the motor case to the frame (we recommend this, see note at end of https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Choosing_and_connecting_stepper_motors#Section_Using_the_internal_drivers )

                              The hot ends can also be producing interference, as they are controlled by PWM, so at certain frequencies that may effect the thermocouples. When do you see interference? When motors are powered up, and/or moving, or when the hot ends are heating? If your hot ends are both mounted on a single carriage, I'd think it would be okay to use 8-core, 4-twisted-pair shielded wiring for the thermocouples. If your hot ends are independent, then you'll need separate cables going to each thermocouple.

                              Is there a particular reason you're using thermocouples? PT1000 don't need a daughterboard, are less susceptible to interference, are good for high temperature, and accuracy should be very good on Duet Maestro.

                              Ian

                              Bed-slinger - Mini5+ WiFi/1LC | RRP Fisher v1 - D2 WiFi | Polargraph - D2 WiFi | TronXY X5S - 6HC/Roto | CNC router - 6HC | Tractus3D T1250 - D2 Eth

                              undefined 2 Replies Last reply 27 Oct 2020, 20:41 Reply Quote 0
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                                Firefly @droftarts
                                last edited by 27 Oct 2020, 20:41

                                @droftarts said in Installing Duet Maestro in FlashForge Creator Pro (2016):

                                Is there a particular reason you're using thermocouples? PT1000 don't need a daughterboard, are less susceptible to interference, are good for high temperature, and accuracy should be very good on Duet Maestro.

                                Ian

                                It is what that was on the stock printer, I converted this printer a year ago and there was no guidance to follow. so was not aware if that was a better option.
                                But why is the duet having issues when the stock printer worked fine with that setup?

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                                  Firefly @droftarts
                                  last edited by Firefly 28 Oct 2020, 20:25

                                  @droftarts said in Installing Duet Maestro in FlashForge Creator Pro (2016):

                                  When do you see interference? When motors are powered up, and/or moving, or when the hot ends are heating?

                                  Ian

                                  did some testing, it happens with extruder motors are on but still, if I do M85 to turn off motors, I don't see the spikes. The hotends heating did not seem to cause any spikes. And this is with the themocouples wires pulled away far as I can.

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                                    Firefly
                                    last edited by Firefly 7 Oct 2023, 15:37 9 Jul 2023, 18:46

                                    LOL, I'm such a slacker , so printer still here collecting dust. But also been playing with other printers.
                                    I tried twisted wires and shielding and still getting interference on thermocouples, it's better but still gets occasional spikes that aborts the print. I guess I just have to do the PT1000 thermistors.

                                    undefined 1 Reply Last reply 20 Jul 2023, 02:11 Reply Quote 0
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                                      Firefly @Firefly
                                      last edited by 20 Jul 2023, 02:11

                                      Don't know why I didn't find it before, there are post about this interference on older boards (I need to check my chip) and the fix is to add capacitors, I will have to try that.

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                                        Firefly
                                        last edited by 23 Jul 2023, 22:04

                                        Making progress, so added the capacitors and no more spikes on thermocouple, this was a duel extruder printer and removed one to shed weight and to simply things. Updated the firmware to 3.4 and surprised to find it now supports input shaping, so now will have to give that a try.

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