Smart Effector v4 z probe not lighting up
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Can you remove the mounting hardware as well so we can see the traces underneath?
If you have a multimeter, could you try measuring the voltage between each end of L1 and ground, or the voltage across ceramic capacitor C3?
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Oh sorry, here it is naked. Lol
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If you have a multimeter, could you try measuring the voltage between each end of L1 and ground, or the voltage across ceramic capacitor C3?
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On one side of L1 it reads 3.3v and on the other about 58mv and across C3 I read about 58mv as well.
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@vmog23 is there actually a component in position L1? From your photos I think it's either missing, or it is very well camouflaged! (i.e. the same colour as the PCB).
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Looking at it again you are correct. There is an outline and solder on L1 but no component.
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@vmog23 thanks, as the SE was working before I think it must have been knocked off. The 3.3V power passes through L1 so that explains why the LED doesn't light up at all. Has the SE collided with anything?
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Not at all especially not from I was testing to the following day when it stopped working. It just weird.
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I'm guessing that would also stop it from send a response back to the duet when should trigger the z stop, is that correct?
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@dc42 said in Smart Effector v4 z probe not lighting up:
@vmog23 thanks, as the SE was working before I think it must have been knocked off. The 3.3V power passes through L1 so that explains why the LED doesn't light up at all. Has the SE collided with anything?
Is L1 user replaceable?
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@vmog23 said in Smart Effector v4 z probe not lighting up:
I'm guessing that would also stop it from send a response back to the duet when should trigger the z stop, is that correct?
Yes,
@Phaedrux said in Smart Effector v4 z probe not lighting up:
Is L1 user replaceable?
It's not hard to replace for anyone used to soldering, it needs a soldering iron with a fairly fine tip. As it's probably been knocked off, the original part may be lying around somewhere near the bottom of the printer. If not, the part number we use is Wurth 742792641. However, almost any 0805 ferrite bead will do, and you could even get away with bridging the pads using a piece of wire.
@vmog23 if you don't think it could have got knocked off by some sort of sideways blow, please post a close-up photo of the L1 pads so that we can asses whether the soldering could have been faulty.
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Hope this picture is good enough because my phones camera isn't the greatest at a close up pictures if not I can try and find my camera.
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I just tried to jump it with a wire just to test it and I still did not get any lights or response.
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@vmog23 I get sharper close-up photos from my camera if I move it a little farther away from the board and then zoom in.
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Thanks for the tip, here is a better picture.
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@vmog23 Thanks for the photos. Were the two close up photos taken before or after you tried to bridge it with wire? Did you solder the wire on, or just hold it on the L1 pads? Just trying to ascertain if the solder on the pads has been remelted.
We think that the 2.8V regulator at U1 failed. This supplies 2.8V to the probe circuitry. It is powered by 3.3V (VCC) via pin 1 of INPUT2, via L1 (see the SmartEffector schematic here). If it failed with 3.3V shorted to ground, it would explain why L1 has disappeared, which probably overheated, melted the solder and fell off. It would also explain why bridging L1 doesn't revive the probe.
As such, we are happy to offer you a warranty replacement. Please send an email to warranty@duet3d.com and CC your reseller. Include a link to this forum thread and the details of your original purchase. You'll receive a reply with a form to fill out.
Ian
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Thanks for the follow-up. The one picture was taken before and one after but I just held the wire on there with my finger and did not solder it on. Thank you, I will send the email a little later. I do appreciate all the help from everyone!
