Need advice on new heated bed aluminium plate
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@wilriker said in Need advice on new heated bed aluminium plate:
I also thought of directly sticking the heater to the aluminium plate with HT silicone but for now I will start with the included 468MP.
Go straight for the high temp silicone. The 468MP sticker isn't adequate in the long run, and when you decide to remove it, it will be painful to get unstuck from the heater pad and using a razor to scrape it off the aluminum is one thing, but risks damaging the silicone. A 6$ tube of RTV silicone is the way to go.
For the print surface, go with a PEI sheet stuck with 468MP. PEI + PVA glue stick will stick and release anything.
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@phaedrux Thanks. Will probably go this way then. I thought the 468MP would already be attached to the header upon delivery but thinking about it they would not know how I want to attach it so they probably just put it separate into the package.
Another question that came to me today: is there any reason but to use very thin (0.5-1mm) float glass on top of the aluminium? My mirror is 3mm thick and insulates quite a bit but delivering nice looking first layer at the same time. I could reduce the insulation factor of glass by just using thinner one, couldn't I?
Manuel
Duet 3 6HC (v0.6) with RPi 4B on a custom Cartesian
with probably always latest firmware/DWC (incl. betas or self-compiled)
My Tool Collection -
@wilriker said in Need advice on new heated bed aluminium plate:
Another question that came to me today: is there any reason but to use very thin (0.5-1mm) float glass on top of the aluminium? My mirror is 3mm thick and insulates quite a bit but delivering nice looking first layer at the same time. I could reduce the insulation factor of glass by just using thinner one, couldn't I?
IMO if you already have a flat aluminium bed, the main advantage of using a glass bed on top of it is so that you can remove it, either to put it in the fridge or freezer to help the print release from the bed, or so that you can put another glass bed on immediately and start a new print, or so that you can use different print surfaces on different glass plates (PEI, glue etc.) for different types of filament. A thin glass plate wouldn't be safe to handle like that.
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The heater will come with the adhesive already attached so you can just peel and stick the heater to the plate. It works fine for about 2 years of printing ABS at 100C, maybe longer if used at lower temperatures.
Very thin glass breaks more easily than thicker glass. Glass chips and ball bearings/human flesh are not good combos.
Over time a PEI surface will get scratched up (especially if your printer is at a makerspace!). One of the facts of FDM printing life is that no matter what the print surface is, the bottom of a print will always look different from the top and sides.
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2mm glass is the absolute minimum. I used it for a while and I had no problems. Except when a spool fell on it.
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I know some of you are aware of these plates...
Has anyone here used one of these plates before?
Im thinking about thinking of building a new printer and I think Im going to go corexy. I'd really like to use a bed like that so as not to deal with all the.. pardon my italian... bed adhesivion fuckery
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Hi,
I am dealing with the same issue.
So where can one get a precision ground aluminum plate made to size?
Frederick
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If your in the US, try these guys...
https://www.midweststeelsupply.com/store/castaluminumplateatp5
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@ricky_grade10 said in Need advice on new heated bed aluminium plate:
If your in the US, try these guys...
https://www.midweststeelsupply.com/store/castaluminumplateatp5
Thank you VERY much. I've looked many times but never found them.
Frederick
Printers: A FT-5 with the 713 upgrade bits, a custom MarkForged style, a small Utilmaker style, a small CoreXY from kit and a E3D MS/TC setup. Various hotends. Using Duets (2 and 3) running 3.4.6
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@fcwilt Both my deltas, Orangie and Mr. Pink, use 1/4 inch tooling plate from them and both plates arrived quickly and have been awesome
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@ricky_grade10 said in Need advice on new heated bed aluminium plate:
@fcwilt Both my deltas, Orangie and Mr. Pink, use 1/4 inch tooling plate from them and both plates arrived quickly and have been awesome
You name your printers? Funny.
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@fcwilt said in Need advice on new heated bed aluminium plate:
@ricky_grade10 said in Need advice on new heated bed aluminium plate:
@fcwilt Both my deltas, Orangie and Mr. Pink, use 1/4 inch tooling plate from them and both plates arrived quickly and have been awesome
You name your printers? Funny.
So do I, Carl Sagan and Richard Feynman, doesn't everyone?
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Yep! "BFD" = Big Fast Delta. And if you think that's what the F really stands for...
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You know that cast aluminum tooling plate can be cut with a hack saw, jig saw, table saw, or miter saw. You don't have to order a specific size...
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@fcwilt said in Need advice on new heated bed aluminium plate:
@ricky_grade10 said in Need advice on new heated bed aluminium plate:
If your in the US, try these guys...
https://www.midweststeelsupply.com/store/castaluminumplateatp5
Thank you VERY much. I've looked many times but never found them.
Frederick
I had a bitch of a time originally finding midwest too. I have a 300 x 300 on my coreXY. The Alcoa MIC6 seems to be a lot more expensive than the Vista ATP5 plate that they carry. And for this application who cares about Alcoa.
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If you have the ability to cut it yourself, S & S Machine sells surplus tooling plate aluminum discs in various sizes. I ordered two a few years ago, and currently use one on my delta.
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Jumping in on this. I'm thinking about moving to a cast aluminium plate, I'm stuck on what thickness to get. The plate would be 500x500mm (19.6875"2 square) and the options seem to be 1/4", 5/16", or 3/8". In that size the 1/4" and 3/8" are the same price and the 5/16" is $10 more. I'm just not sure which way to go. Any advice would be truly appreciated. My machine is a CoreXY with dual Z axis using single start T8 leadscrews that have a 2mm lead. On the plus side I live about 90 minutes away from Midwest Metal Supply.
Thanks,
Tom
Thanks,
TomTronXY X5S-500 (CoerXY)
Duet 2 Ethernet v1.04
Firmware Version: 2.02(RTOS) (2018-12-24b1)
Web Interface Version: 1.22.6
7" PanelDue
E3D V6 Clone
MOSFET's for hot end
1000w Keenovo with SSR for heat bed
dc42 Mini IR Sensor or BLTouch -
Anyone experience with them?
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@tletourneau When it comes to thickness, you're balancing rigidity against heat-up time. You can get an idea of heat-up time from this site: https://jscalc.io/calc/uS8JYjYISgIvzJ1x 1/4" plate may be a little thin for that size depending on how thin you want to print your first layer, or whether or not you're going to use mesh compensation.
A 500x500 plate will expand about 1mm when heated to 100C. Make sure the mounting system can deal with that- the mount is usually not heated, so the screw locations don't move by 1 mm. I have used a kinematic mount on 2 printers (so far) and it works well.
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@mrehorstdmd thanks for the reply, I'll keep the mount in mind. I guess I have to decide between the 5/16 (12.22lbs, 7.9375mm) or 3/8" (14Lbs, 9.525mm). It's a fairly large build area (at least in my mind) and I'm concerned about rigidity. I have a 3mm heat bed now and it is not the most rigid thing in the universe.
I also can't seem to get a good automatic bed level (my dual Z's are independently driven) or a good mesh. I'm using dc42's mini differential IR sensor but I can start another thread for that. I do have a 1/4" glass top on the bed.
