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    Controlling a Cetus3D with Duet3D 0.8.5

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    Tuning and tweaking
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    • fotomasundefined
      fotomas
      last edited by fotomas

      I have happily been printing for a few days, tinkering with settings, fans, PanelDue etc.

      It was when I printed a part I designed for the printer I realized that my part come out mirrored. First asymetric print 🙂 I thought this was an easy fix but I can to seem to ge my head around it. 😭 😭

      So can anyone please help. What do I do to reverse my Y-axis to go the other way?

      I have tried to revere the stepper motor with M569 P1 S1 => M569 P1 S0, that works but I haven't been able to get all the other parts in order. I Changed the M574 Y1 Z1 S2 => M574 Z1 Y2 S1, to no apparent effect.... I reversed the connector on going in to the duet and then reversed it back in config (I guess that it cancels out each other)

      I have tried som many things I am not sure what I have done or in which order. So an explanation on how all this ties together would be much appreciated.

      Is there more to it than using M569, M574 and coordinates in homing files?

      This is the config I had before trying to fix this, all is well except mirrored Y-axis.

      ;Drives
      M569 P0 S1                               ; Drive 0 goes forwards
      M569 P1 S0                               ; Drive 1 goes backwards (Y-axis)
      M569 P2 S1                               ; Drive 2 goes forwards
      M569 P3 S1                               ; Drive 3 goes forwards
      '''
      ;M92 X80.00 Y80.00 Z80.00 E118.00       
      M566 X90.00 Y90.00 Z90.00 E120.00     
      M203 X18000.00 Y18000.00 Z10000.00 E5000.00  
      M201 X150.00 Y150.00 Z100.00 E250.00      
      M906 X340.00 Y340.00 Z500.00 E400.00 I30 
      M84 S30
      
      ; Axis Limits
      M208 X0 Y0 Z0 S1                    
      M208 X180 Y180 Z180 S0       
      
      ; Endstops
      M574 X1 S0                               
      
      ; Z-Probe
      M574 Y2 Z1 S2                            
      M558 P1 H5 F250 T6000           
      G31 P538 X0 Y0 Z3.65               
      M557 X55:180 Y15:180 S20
      

      0_1543089809651_20181124_201002.jpg

      dc42undefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • dc42undefined
        dc42 administrators @fotomas
        last edited by

        @fotomas said in Controlling a Cetus3D with Duet3D 0.8.5:

        Is there more to it than using M569, M574 and coordinates in homing files?

        To reverse the direction of the Y axis you also need to adjust M569, M574, and in homey.g and homeall.g reverse the directions of the Y homing moves and any Y homing stop backoff moves. See https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/ConfiguringRepRapFirmwareCartesianPrinter#Section_Homing_X_and_Y and https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/ConfiguringRepRapFirmwareCartesianPrinter#Section_The_homeall_g_file.

        Duet WiFi hardware designer and firmware engineer
        Please do not ask me for Duet support via PM or email, use the forum
        http://www.escher3d.com, https://miscsolutions.wordpress.com

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        • fotomasundefined
          fotomas
          last edited by

          After a night sleep and some distance to the whole thing I sorted it out. I had almost right, the one thing that threw me of was one line I had added in homeall.g G92 X-3 Y-5. It was just an adjustment since my Y-axis home outside the printable area. But it surley messed things up 🙂

          dc42 Thank you for your quick reply, now I am on the right track again.

          Oh, and this is the piece I drew to print verifying that the axis are in right order. It was after the print finished it dawned on me both letter X and Y can be mirrored, without showing. Bad luck when thinking, I guess 🙂 🙂
          0_1543173095989_AxisDirection.PNG

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          • Onnoundefined
            Onno
            last edited by

            HI,

            I'm considering doing the same, swapping out the default electronics with a Duet. I intend to use the sensorless homing feature, but I am not sure if that will work for the Z axis. For the Z-axis I still got three difference Z-axis sensors, the original three wire ormerod sensors, the 4 wire one, and the DC42 sensorboard with ultrasonic sensor. Am I right assuming you're using the latter as sensor? Or did you try sensorless home for that one as well?
            And how may steps per mm did you configure for the extruder?

            fotomasundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • fotomasundefined
              fotomas @Onno
              last edited by

              @onno
              I am using the earliest sensor made by dc42, dor an Ormerod with dual extruders. Link. I use it to home Z and Y axis, for the X axis I have mounted a micro switch besede the x-axis stepper motor.

              I will post the STL's for the sensor board, micro switch, power inlet and casing, if anyone is interested.

              My config for the cetus looks like this, note the quite exotic heater values, but hey the work and have beed calibrated pretty well. I am using the cetus almost as delivered. 18v powerbrick, same extruder, same stepper motors. And tuned in it works very well, both with PLA and TPU, on original table without raft.

              I am happy to answer any question you may have.

              ; General preferences
              G90                                      ; Send absolute coordinates...
              M83                                      ; ...but relative extruder moves
              
              ; Network
              M550 PCEDUT                              ; Set machine name Cetus + Duet => cedut ;)
              M551 Preprap                             ; Set password
              M552 P192.168.0.65 S1                    ; Enable network and set IP address
              M553 P255.255.255.0                      ; Set netmask
              M554 P192.168.0.1                        ; Set gateway
              M586 P0 S1                               ; Enable HTTP
              M586 P1 S0                               ; Disable FTP
              M586 P2 S0                               ; Disable Telnet
              
              ; Drives
              M569 P0 S1                               ; Drive 0 goes forwards
              M569 P1 S1                               ; Drive 1 goes backwards (Y)
              M569 P2 S1                               ; Drive 2 goes forwards
              M569 P3 S1                               ; Drive 3 goes forwards
              
              M92 X79.72 Y79.72 Z79.72 E118.00       ; Set steps per mm; used to be E127
              M566 X230.00 Y230.00 Z90.00 E120.00      ; Set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min)
              M203 X28000.00 Y28000.00 Z15000.00 E10000.00  ; Set maximum speeds (mm/min)
              M201 X200.00 Y200.00 Z100.00 E250.00      ; Set accelerations (mm/s^2)
              M906 X340.00 Y340.00 Z500.00 E500.00 I30 ; Set motor currents (mA) and motor idle factor in per cent
              M84 S30                                  ; Set idle timeout
              
              ; Axis Limits
              M208 X-10 Y0 Z0 S1                         ; Set axis minima
              M208 X185 Y184 Z180 S0                   ; Set axis maxima
              
              ; Endstops
              M574 X1 S0                               ; Set active high endstops
              
              ; Z-Probe
              M574 Y2 Z1 S2                            ; Set endstops controlled by probe
              M558 P1 H5 F250 T6000                    ; Set Z probe type to unmodulated and the dive height + speeds
              G31 P538 X0 Y0 Z3.82                     ; Set Z probe trigger value, offset and trigger height
              M557 X50:180 Y10:165 S40                 ; Define mesh grid
              G29 S1 					; Load stored mesh grid from SD Card
              
              ; Heaters
              M140 H-1                                 ; Disable heated bed
              M305 P1 R4700  T112 B-425 C7.060000e-8 ; post multimeter measurement
              M143 H1 S280                             ; Set temperature limit for heater 1 to 280C
              
              ; Fans
              M106 P0 T50 H1 ; Thermostatic control is on, turn on at 50cC
              
              ; Tools
              M563 P0 D0 H1                            ; Define tool 0
              G10 P0 X0 Y0 Z0                          ; Set tool 0 axis offsets
              G10 P0 R0 S0                             ; Set initial tool 0 active and standby temperatures to 0C
              
              ; Pressure advance
              M572 D0 S0.05
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              • Onnoundefined
                Onno
                last edited by

                Thanks for the info, this provides a great starting point once I get the Duet in (still need to order it).
                Right now the printer is still too busy to take it out, but like you, I'm trying to stay close to the original Cetus initially, although I foresee switching to an E3D Titan Aero at a later stage as well, along with 0.9deg steppers, and a heated bed.
                Once again, thanks!

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                • cookieundefined
                  cookie
                  last edited by

                  @fotomas Thanks a lot for helpful infos. I’m getting Cetus MK3, which should arrive next month, and joined Cetus Duet club 🙂

                  How you connect Cetus powerbrick to Duet? Any modification needed?

                  Cookie

                  fotomasundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • fotomasundefined
                    fotomas @cookie
                    last edited by

                    @cookie
                    I took a DC jack from an old DELL laptop docking station. 3D Printed a holder so I could screw it down to the Cetus bottom plate using an already existing hole.

                    The Cetus bottom plate has four holes for the original controller board. Two of them fits the Duet 0.8.5 board as is. The 3D printed part for the DC jack reaches in underneath the the Duet offering support.

                    0_1548331981973_DELL_DC_Jack_holder.png.jpg

                    cookieundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • cookieundefined
                      cookie @fotomas
                      last edited by

                      @fotomas great! Any photo of this dc jack? So I can google it and try to get one.

                      fotomasundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • fotomasundefined
                        fotomas @cookie
                        last edited by

                        @cookie
                        I de-soldered one like in the pic below. But an Ebay or google search for "DC Jack female 7.4 mm" give you some other options.

                        0_1548363693613_s-l1600.jpg

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                        • dsmudgerundefined
                          dsmudger
                          last edited by

                          Hi,

                          Another Cetus MK3 owner here. Just got my Duet Wifi, but of course don't want to start pulling cables and boards out of a working printer before I know I have everything and it's reasonably likely to work.

                          I think I'm going to need at least a different power supply (not a problem, I'll bring over a bench supply tomorrow). But is that probably it?

                          I'd also be super grateful if someone in the know, could post the high level overview of the process? I mean like what are the chapter titles; then I can go off and bang my head against figuring out the finer details of all that until it works..

                          Thanks 😓
                          Dan

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                          • fotomasundefined
                            fotomas
                            last edited by

                            dsmudger

                            I would say these are major steps

                            • Homing switches (I use a microswitch for X and an old dc42 IR sensor for Z and Y)
                            • Make adapters or get new cables to stepper motors
                            • Make adapter or new cable for hot end
                            • Power supply (I am using the original Cetus power supply)
                            • Configure the Duet3d (steps/mm and heater values you can see above, the rest I think may vary in your case)

                            Original connectors can be forced into the Duet board, but I ended up making adapters both for the steppers and the hot end. Pictures below show before the adapters during "proof of concept phase". On the hotend it self I made a new board using experimental circuit board and matching connectors. There was too much interference in the ribbon cable for the signal from the IR board so I added an ethernet (twisted pair) cable for that.

                            If there are any questions I would be happy to help.

                            1_1551951790794_20181118_155341.jpg 0_1551951790794_20181118_155206.jpg
                            0_1551952241000_20190217_171807.jpg

                            cookieundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 2
                            • dsmudgerundefined
                              dsmudger
                              last edited by

                              Thanks a lot, that's beyond useful.

                              • Cetus MK3 already has 3x homing switches, so sounds like I might even already have all I need.
                              • Adapters seems the right way to go so it's easily reversible, but eh, 'ain't gonna need it 🤞'.
                              • Duet 2 Wifi came with a little bag of JST connectors; if I'm lucky, the metal crimp terminals might be the same. If so I'll just need to change the plastic shells over (while carefully counting on my fingers which colour goes to which pin). If I'm extra lucky and Cetus doesn't change their wiring too often, maybe it'll even match your photos and help confirm I'm on the right track 👍

                              Big thanks again for that, I'll try to post something once I get things going 😀

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                              • cookieundefined
                                cookie @dsmudger
                                last edited by

                                @dsmudger I just got my MK3 running and the Duet Wifi is laying around. Seem like I’ve to figure out the right crimping tools or learn how to crimp without them. I’m so novice when come to wiring works. Will keep you update when there is progress.

                                Thanks 🙂

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                                • A Former User?
                                  A Former User @dsmudger
                                  last edited by

                                  @dsmudger

                                  re adapter: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3465278 is what i did for what may be the same "problem" 🙂

                                  And JST XH terminals which Tiertime use aren't compatible with the molex picoblade, you will need to replace terminals, or as I did, buy male JST XH and make adapters just to make it reversible.

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                                  • cookieundefined
                                    cookie @fotomas
                                    last edited by

                                    @fotomas said in Controlling a Cetus3D with Duet3D 0.8.5:

                                    On the hotend it self I made a new board using experimental circuit board and matching connectors.
                                    0_1551951790794_20181118_155206.jpg

                                    Hello, @fotomas

                                    I'm working on MK3. The X,Y,Z motors and endstops are working as it should now. But when come to 16 pin connector wiring to hotend's motor, heater, thermistor and fan .. how you figured out which is which?

                                    Thanks,
                                    Cookie

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                                    • fotomasundefined
                                      fotomas @cookie
                                      last edited by

                                      Dear @cookie 🙂

                                      That is quite easy.

                                      Just measure the connections between the Control board end and the daughter board that has separate connections for each "thing". Thermistor, stepper motor, fan, heater. If I remember correctly the hearer uses double wires for both + and -, most likely to increase the cable area.
                                      0_1553179364491_20190321_063349.jpg

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                                      • A Former User?
                                        A Former User
                                        last edited by

                                        They used the same layout on my Up Mini 2. Doubling the heater wires to increase current carrying capability of both wires and connectors. From your picture they use the same pinout as well.

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                                        • cookieundefined
                                          cookie @fotomas
                                          last edited by

                                          @fotomas thanks!

                                          I spend a few hours figured out, I’m a novice when come to electronic. I tried mapping out the circuit board and use thermistor to check each pair connectivity, then could identified them all 🙂

                                          Then, Cetus use PT100 as thermistor. Did you swap out to something else or buy PT100 daugther board?

                                          Also, you get new heater or not? And did you splice the wire for double heating pin, right? Still not sure how to do it right ..

                                          fotomasundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                          • fotomasundefined
                                            fotomas @cookie
                                            last edited by

                                            @cookie

                                            I'm using the original cetus thermistor. It works well after finding the correct values for it.

                                            I do not think a negative B value is common.
                                            M305 P1 R4700 T112 B-425 C7.060000e-8

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