Final settings (for future use by anyone interested):

config.g
-----------------------------------------
; Drives
M584 X0:3 Y1:4 Z2 U3 V4 P3; Three axis visible

; Tools
M563 P0 D0 

; Drive direction
M569 P0 S1                       ; Drive 0 goes forwards
M569 P1 S1                       ; Drive 1 goes forwards
M569 P2 S1                       ; Drive 2 goes forwards
M569 P3 S1
M569 P4 S1

; Steps and Speed
M92 X80.00 Y80.00 U80.00 V80.00 Z4000.00 ; Set steps per mm
M566 X900.00 Y900.00 U900.00 V900.00 Z12.00; Set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min)
M203 X6000.00 Y6000.00 Z180.00 U6000.00 V6000.00; Set maximum speeds (mm/min)
M201 X500.00 Y500.00 Z20.00 U500.00 V500.00; Set accelerations (mm/s^2)
M906 X800.00 Y800.00 Z800.00 U800.00 V800.00 I30; motor currents (mA) and motor idle factor
M84 S30  ; Set idle timeout

; Axis Limits
M208 X0 Y0 Z0 U0 V0 S1                 ; Set axis minima
M208 X600 Y400 Z100 U600 V600 S0           ; Set axis maxima

; Endstops
M574 X1 Y1 U1 V1 S0               ; Set active low and disabled endstops

homex.g
----------------------------------------
M584 X0 U3 P5; split steppers, 5 axis visible
G91 ; relative moves
G1 X-650 U-650  F450 S1 ; fast homing X and U in parallell
;G92 X0 U0 ; Make adjustments to square axis here
M584 X0:3 P3; join steppers, 3 axis visible
G90

dsmudger

I would say these are major steps

• Homing switches (I use a microswitch for X and an old dc42 IR sensor for Z and Y)
• Make adapters or get new cables to stepper motors
• Make adapter or new cable for hot end
• Power supply (I am using the original Cetus power supply)
• Configure the Duet3d (steps/mm and heater values you can see above, the rest I think may vary in your case)

Original connectors can be forced into the Duet board, but I ended up making adapters both for the steppers and the hot end. Pictures below show before the adapters during "proof of concept phase". On the hotend it self I made a new board using experimental circuit board and matching connectors. There was too much interference in the ribbon cable for the signal from the IR board so I added an ethernet (twisted pair) cable for that.

If there are any questions I would be happy to help.

I have upgraded my duet-controlled Cetud3d with a Hemera extruder. I have been testing how fast it can print and still have not reached its limits.

Peak speed in the PLA print below is about 250 mm/s , reported by DWC.

• Lauyerheight 0.20 mm
• Print time 40 minutes.
• Acceleration set to 2500 mm/sec^2 (M201)
• Allowable instantaneous speed change 800 (M566)

This is unnecessary and so much FUN
https://youtu.be/gCN8IdGvwas

I want to share may latest project, a detachable Panel Due caring using RJ45 connectors.

I am building a Duet controlled MPCNC and to be able to move my panel due between my printer and the upcoming CNC. I used RJ45 connectors from a server room patch panel.

I have tested with different LAN cable lengths, 3 m works but not 10 m , it communicated but the touch control did not respond. 3 m will be more than enough.

The hole is for an emergency stop button to be used with the CNC. This is a prototype printed printed with a 0.6 nozzle and 0.4 layer height so it is not the prettiest print.

Happy with the solution so far.

I got no voltage at those points. Not with or without an object within range.

I made several tests to be sure sonce i did net get any readots at all.

As a last test I was thinking of trying to shine some IR light on the sensor using the old ormerod sensor or a tv remote.

Settimg this up it started working again!!?? I did not get to the point using another IR source.

I have disconnected it several times and kept working then it stopped working again.

After a print my printer stands pre-heated (at 100C) in standby. When I start slicing my next print I click the heater in DWC to get to active and prepare for printing temp.

But going from standby to active resets all the temps to zero.

I'm a doing something wrong, or is it not ment to be used like this?

Or maybe it is a bug...

Duet Web Control 2.0.0-RC6

@cookie

I'm using the original cetus thermistor. It works well after finding the correct values for it.

I do not think a negative B value is common.
M305 P1 R4700 T112 B-425 C7.060000e-8

I have beed inspecting and inspecting and not seen anything indicating cracks or movement.

That seems to have got it up an running again. I have probably closed a crack somwhere.

If it stops workkng again I may let a friend of mine re-solder all componets with one of those soldering heat guns.

That may invalidate the warranty, I dont know but may be worth a try.

Inthink we can close this thread.

Thank you for all help!

I have bees adapting my printer to the new Hemera extruder from E3D.

The included cooling fan for the hotend screams pretty bad at full rpm. My first thought was to order a quieter fan, such as a Noctua.

But before ordering I did some tests and with good results.

I using the PWM settings in M106 the command I configured the fan to only start above 80 degress and max out at 220 degrees with a speed of 170 (of 255) .

This has worked fine for me with no seemingly issues with heat creep. The longest print so fas has ben about three hours.

So I have not had the need to order a new fan, thanks to configuration. That's nice

Have any one else tested anything similar?
What is your experience?

M106 P1 B1 T80:220 H1 X170

(This needs a firmware version supporting the X parameter, >= 2.02)

@bearer That is the hotend terminator.

Ok I will check that, thanks!

It started with a spaghetti print, I heard noices from the printer and went to check. It was printing 100mm off.

I stoppped the print and rehomed. To my surprise the straight moves to find the end of axis (sensorless) were not straight. It moves mostly in the expected direction but some in the other axis too.

Since it is a CoreXY I am guessing the motors are not moving citrectly.

A short video of home axis separately. The first one moves in the oposite direction !?!

Video

No configuration has been altered so I am guessing a hardware issue??

@Phaedrux got it working, took a while until I figured out that config-override.g was the problemi

Sorry for the incomplete description.

I have jammed a thermistor inside the cooling fins of a hemera extruder (the cooling fins where the heatbreak i threaded). I did this to have a temperature controlled cooling fan that reacts to the actual temperature. The actual need for this is questionable at best, and when I mounted a Noctua fan full speed makes almost no noise at all.

I anyone is interested a Hemera with a noctua 40x40x10 12v fan at full speed keeps the heatbreak at about 55 C when printing at 250 C.

So if a would skip thermocontrol of the extruder fan (or wait until upgraded to RRF3 ) :

What do I need to do just to control the Heater E1 as power on/off (without complaints about temperatures)?

I need help to get the configuration right for controlling some lights attached on heater E1.

Board: Duet WiFi 1.02
Firmware: 2.05.1

I have a thermistor just above the heat break that controls the hot end cooling fan. I have this working well and displayed in DWC.

What I would like to accomplish is to with a macro toggle lights on heater port E1 and keep the function of the hot end cooling. Also keep the heat break temp in the diagram.

Preferably hide the extra tool and having the fan slider visualizing the fan speed. As of now there is a fan slider but it seems to have no connection to a fan.

Removing the M563 P1 for tool T1 hides the tool in DWC but stops the fan. So there some more configuration needed, please help.

Complete config.g

; --- Heaters
;Bed
M305 P0 S"Bed" T100000 B4138 R4700             ; set thermistor + ADC parameters for heater 0
M143 H0 S90                             ; set temperature limit for heater 0 to 90C

;Hotend
M305 P1 S"Hotend" R4700  T100000 B4725 C7.06e-8 ; Extruder
M143 H1 S280                            ; set temperature limit for heater 1 to 280C

;Heatbreak
M305 P2 S"Heatbreak" X2 R4700
M143 H2 S90 

; Fans
M106 P0 S0 I0 F70 H-1             
M106 P1 B0.2 T35:50 H2 X200 S255

; Tools
M563 P0 S"Hotend" D0 H1 F0                         ; define tool 0
M563 P1 S"Heatbreak" H2

I have beed inspecting and inspecting and not seen anything indicating cracks or movement.

That seems to have got it up an running again. I have probably closed a crack somwhere.

If it stops workkng again I may let a friend of mine re-solder all componets with one of those soldering heat guns.

That may invalidate the warranty, I dont know but may be worth a try.

Inthink we can close this thread.

Thank you for all help!

I got no voltage at those points. Not with or without an object within range.

I made several tests to be sure sonce i did net get any readots at all.

As a last test I was thinking of trying to shine some IR light on the sensor using the old ormerod sensor or a tv remote.

Settimg this up it started working again!!?? I did not get to the point using another IR source.

I have disconnected it several times and kept working then it stopped working again.

@alankilian Sorry but that link was a bit over my head.

Measurements taken
Voltage in: 3.30 V
Red 276 mV
Blue 291 mV

What is normal/expected voltage?

Some more pictures. I have removed the capton tape. I do not know what heat damage looks like but it has been mounted in a 2mm thick PLA mount 5 mm from the hot ends silicon cover. (7 mm in total) The PLA has not lost its shape so I do not think it can not get especially hot. The hot end cooling fan and part cooling also creates a draft near it.

I can not see how it would be possible to measure across the IR emitters, the seem surface mounted with its connections under them.

There seem to be som IR light but rather faint.