Hello, am new here but not a newbie as such.
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Morning all, thanks for your help recently. Have been distracted by a recent major show of 2 of my sculpture pieces (each partially 3dprinted) at Tate Late:
However...now back to Fusedeep!
Regarding the DUET wifi/Ethernet. Not all my laptops have Ethernet ports and am not always going to gave wifi hub.
Can either board just have gcode slotted in via SD card (appreciate both have an SD card firmware file also) . If I understand it correctly, the gcode of a print and firmware settings go in on the same SD card and it fires up. that would seem to be what i need?
If I know that no matter what I can use a screen to start a print via SD card (regardless of wifi/ethernet) then I will probably go wifi (though 2 duet experienced friends advised against it!).
your advice appreciated. Bit conflicted currently but like the simple on card option with screen. Reliable if i am in the middle of a field, and yest, this is very possible.
R
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@FuseDeep Basically everything runs off the SD card. Once a print has started, you can disconnect and even switch off any computers that are attached and the printer will run quite happily. Of course, you won't have any means of monitoring what's going on, nor will you be able to stop or pause a print. So adding something like a panel due might be your best option.
Edit. If you are in the middle of field, you'll need some means of generating electricity or a big 24V battery
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@FuseDeep from your description i think you have two general options:
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Add a PanelDue and connect it using the short ribbon cable. then you can use the SD card slot on the panel due to print from. This is better than constantly removing and re-inserting the SD card on the Duet itself as its easier to get to.
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Set a Duet 2 Wifi up in access point mode. In that mode you can connect to it like a wifi hotspot from a laptop/phone or tablet.
How to setup the access point details:
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Gcode#Section_M589_Configure_access_point_parameters
The changes needed to M552 netwroking command in config.g to start networking as an access point.
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Gcode#Section_M552_Set_IP_address_enable_disable_network_interface
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Thanks all.
Power, yes. Am looking at 24v battery, solar and other methods. @Fusedeep is designed to travel and be rugged (hence no oily profile rails).
Also, in my experience relying on any data network is always a no no for many many many reasons.
So wifi with the screen is a good option either way, great. Appreciate the information.
Am looking at a full re gantry of the big printer, this will substantially reduce the load on steppers (using openbuild delrin wheels, already in use on the Z guides.)
Looking forward to having it reliable and much less hassle.
R
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@FuseDeep said in Hello, am new here but not a newbie as such.:
.................Power, yes. Am looking at 24v battery, solar and other methods...................
In that case you might find something interesting in this post that I made on my blog a few weeks ago https://somei3deas.wordpress.com/2019/10/22/fitting-a-dc-uninterruptible-power-supply-ups-and-separate-5v-supply/
Although strictly speaking the batteries are charged from the mains, there is no reason why they couldn't be charged from solar or any other source. To run totally "off grid" though, you'd need some pretty hefty batteries to handle a heated bed. In the post that I linked too, my bed is mains powered so in the event of a prolonged power outage, it will eventually cool to the point where a part might become unattached. But then at a pinch you could always resort to the old cold bed/painters tape method.......
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HI @deckingman
Yes, have been looking at my options for a few years and have a Narrowboat on the Thames the last 7 yrs (where I ran a Makergear M2 for 18 months about 5 yrs back).
Lot's to consider. First off, lighten the gantry and a new control method...I do not use a heated bed so actually only a few amps needed really. 6 to 8 maximum so a decent battery lasts a surprising time. Plus the big LION domestic batteries are quite light and offer 100% capacity compared to lead acid etc.
Will report!
Thanks R
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I get great results with blue tape on normal glass bed and use a decent brim. never had any problems. I print mostly vase prints anyway for speed so even more reliable stress wise in the part printing.
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@FuseDeep Then you should get a really long run time on battery power. I wouldn't worry too much about lightening the gantry as any savings from reducing the motor current by sat 100mA will be minimal IMO. My CoreXYUVAB with all 6 motors (two of which are Nema 23s) showed a voltage drop of about 0.5 V after over an hour and that was starting with batteries in there "as received" charge state.
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@deckingman The gantry lightening effort (as above) is more about suitability for purpose.
The IGUS set up is incredible but too tough for the dynamic needed imo, it has 20mm width M5 or 6 teeth pitch set up for example on a 600mm square set up! Just too much resistance. I may be proved wrong. But my feeling is to keep it simple/simpler.
Am going for 9mm GT3 M5 belts and looking forward to making an openbuild/v wheel wheel roller set up as I have a Tonka alu frame set up already.
Nice tech. simple too. Most likely ordering from ooznest.
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@FuseDeep Again for info, my CoreXYUVAB is built using OpenBuilds VSlot and has a moving mass of around 5Kgs split between 2 gantries which all works just fine using 6mm belts. I can also say that I've always had great service from Ooznest.
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@deckingman Cool, thanks . Will report...
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OK, have ordered a DUET 2 and wifi antennae plus the 5" screen. I did wonder if there was a connector bundle to go with it? looking at the board connections. I do have plug maker here, but find the pin work painful!
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@FuseDeep said in Hello, am new here but not a newbie as such.:
OK, have ordered a DUET 2 and wifi antennae plus the 5" screen. I did wonder if there was a connector bundle to go with it? looking at the board connections. I do have plug maker here, but find the pin work painful!
A connector kit comes with. You will need a simple crimper, nothing fancy. Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/IWISS-Harness-Crimping-Computer-Automotive/dp/B01M1YK5FM/
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In general, going OK, am fully rehashing the XY gantry with open beam. Nice and simple meccano for grown ups. Enjoying belting up too, combining GT2 on a nema 17 and GT3 on both sides of X.
Looks like it will be 2x Nema 23 for X and 1x NEMA17 for Y so will be looking to run 2 Nema 23 at full power from either the same signal (one reversed) or use two Duet outputs, one reversed.
Have not even started to look at a DUET file yet. IS there an example file of a fairly normal Cartesian set up file I can start to get my head round please?
Also need to look at links above in relation to the basics. will do.
Cheers R
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@FuseDeep said in Hello, am new here but not a newbie as such.:
Have not even started to look at a DUET file yet. IS there an example file of a fairly normal Cartesian set up file I can start to get my head round please?
Use the configuration tool at https://configtool.reprapfirmware.org/Start to get you started. Read https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/ConfiguringRepRapFirmwareCartesianPrinte when you want to understand what the file contents mean.
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No article found at that url:
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/ConfiguringRepRapFirmwareCartesianPrinte
?
R
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There is a suggestion running 2 stepper in series (but one reversed?) is best for the Z set up. I assume I could reassign Z to my X and use the twin set up?
I think the Duet wifi does not have a spare stepper output other than the twin Z. So I could mirror the 2 X axis stepper motors.
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Where is the idiots guide to DUET set up please?
For example I am not sure how or what the SD card is meant to be connected to to configure (wifi or in my laptop) . Do I have to be connected to the wife of the board to do the config?
Plus, I have 2 SD cards as one with the screen. The board based one is key as I understand it.
It'll make sense once I have don it...but have never done a DUET.
Bit at a loss currently. I do get the impression I might be a stepper driver short on Duet wifi, running two on X (as opposed to Z)
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A lot of the interaction with the Duet is through the web control interface. The documentation for that is here: https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Duet_Web_Control_Manual
The Duet Wifi would typically be connected to a wifi network, and then you would connect to the Duet through the web interface in your browser. Alternatively, the Duet can be configured to create its own wifi network, which you could then connect to.
A lot of the basics of getting started can be found here: https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Step_by_step_guide
The SD card that comes with the board will have a very basic default configuration used for testing at the factory. You'll need to provide a set of configuration files specific to your printer. This would normally be created with the online configuration tool. https://configtool.reprapfirmware.org/Start
This would provide a basic configuration. More advanced configuration of specific features would then need to be completed manually by editing the configuration files.
If you're already connected to the board over the network and have access to the web control you can upload the resulting config set and edit the configuration files right there in the browser, or you can use your PC to edit them and put them on the SD card first.
The SD card slot on the board itself would typically hold your configuration files and where the uploaded gcode files would go. The SD card slot on the PanelDue is accessible when the PanelDue is connected via the 10-pin ribbon cable and it can be used to load gcode files in the traditional manner of placing the sliced gcode file on the SD card using a PC and then physically transferring the SD card into the PanelDue slot. You'd then use the web interface or the PanelDue to locate your gcode file for printing.
The Za and Zb drivers are wired in series and are not individually addressable since it's a single driver. There are 2 separate extruder drivers, so if you only need one extruder, you can use the other extruder driver as another X/Y/Z axis driver.
