Keenovo 220v setup
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Hello
I have a 220v 750w silicone bed from Keenovo wired correctly as seen in on other thread.
I have a correct thermistor reading but when I'm doing PID tuning, the bed doesn't heat.
I have a SSR :RS1a23d25s62 AC51:25amp 240v 3-32v
Where am I wrong ?
ThanksHere is my Heaters config :
; Heaters
M308 S0 P"temp1" Y"thermistor" T95000 B3950 ; configure sensor 0 as thermistor on pin temp1
M950 H0 C"out0" T0 ; create bed heater output on out0 and map it to sensor 0
M307 H0 B0 ; disable bang-bang mode for the bed heater and set PWM limit
M140 H0 S-273.15 ; map heated bed to heater 0
M143 H0 S120 ; set temperature limit for heater 0 to 120C
M308 S1 P"temp0" Y"thermistor" T410000 B4723 C1.19622e-7 ; configure sensor 1 as thermistor on pin temp0
M950 H1 C"out1" T1 ; create nozzle heater output on out1 and map it to sensor 1
M307 H1 B0 S1.00 ; disable bang-bang mode for heater and set PWM limit -
How have you connected the SSR to the Duet? Have you connected the + and - control input wires the right way round?
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@dc42
Duet3 (out0) instead of Duet2 -
Hi,
Did you verify that 220 is present on the L and N wires?
Frederick
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@fcwilt
No, with a tester ? -
@Touchthebitum said in Keenovo 220v setup:
@fcwilt
No, with a tester ?I was just wondering if that power switch was wired/working correctly. I had one that was defective.
Do you have a device that you can test for power on those wires?
Frederick
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@fcwilt
No, unfortunately -
out3/4 should be powered ?
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If it's a Duet 3 then OUT0+ is powered from the +VOUT0_IN input terminal, not from +VIN.
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@dc42
Yes it is a Duet3.
So I should power out_0 power in too from the PSU ? -
The SSR does not take a lot of current on its input, you can use a thin wire and one of the fan headers to simplify your wiring. Keeps your bed output free for things such switching LED lights...
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@pixelpieper
Ok, thanks but not sure I understand .. -
@Touchthebitum I just had a look on the wiring diagram of the duet 3: you can configure your bed to use for example out 2 instead of the big screw terminals to control your SSR.
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@pixelpieper
Ok, thanks -
@Touchthebitum Here is a sketch with the correct polarity for the SSR inputs:
You then have to adjust the configuration as follows:
M950 H0 C"out2" T0 ; create bed heater output on out0 and map it to sensor 0 -
@pixelpieper
Perfect
Thanks -
@pixelpieper
Great it works like a charm. Thanks -
@Touchthebitum Nice!
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@Touchthebitum said in Keenovo 220v setup:
@fcwilt
No, unfortunatelyYou're doing mains wiring without a multimeter?
I'm shocked, but hopefully you aren't! -
@Phaedrux
No, I misunderstood the question, I mean I'm not very clever with it -
@Phaedrux said in Keenovo 220v setup:
You're doing mains wiring without a multimeter?
A side note about multimeter usage, if you use it for mains voltage, you want something better than the check multimeters from China, regardless what their specification says. There are all kind of costly safety consideration that go into a good multimeter design. Stick with a brand name (there are several, Fluke is not the only one).
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@zapta
Thanks, I'll consider that rapidly. -
Also, these non-contact AC voltage probes can be a real lifesaver! Theyโre not too expensive and really great to keep around whenever youโre dealing with mains wiring. Just wave the tip by each of your wires before going in to make sure theyโre not powered.
Fluke 1AC II VoltAlert Non-Contact Voltage Tester https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EJ332O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9g8oFbXAG3MBR
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@pixelpieper Hi!
Naive queestion here... if you don't mind. Looking at your polarity markings and Duet3 pinout diagram key, I'm confused why yellow/black (called 'PWM V_IN' in the key) is a -.
(I've just ordered a Duet3, and yes I've a multimeter and done some wiring, but never read motherboard pinout diagrams before.)
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@piotrkmiotczyk said in Keenovo 220v setup:
Naive queestion here... if you don't mind. Looking at your polarity markings and Duet3 pinout diagram key, I'm confused why yellow/black (called 'PWM V_IN' in the key) is a -.
The positive side is permanently powered, the negative is switched to ground for "on" so is pulled to near the positive voltage with the output turned off.
I believe they label them that way so people realise it's not the positive power that is switched, with a permanent 0V/ground on the other terminal.