Creality CR-10 upgrade
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One general question. Trying printing quicker and i get some uneven perimeter lines. What could be happening? Does Extrusion Factor on web interface got anything to do with it?
My pressure advance is set to .7 on direct drive; Drives
M569 P0 S0 ; Drive 0 goes forwards
M569 P1 S1 ; Drive 1 goes forwards
M569 P2 S0 ; Drive 2 goes forwards
M569 P3 S0 ; Drive 3 goes forwards
M350 X16 Y16 Z16 E16 I1 ; Configure microstepping with interpolation
M92 X79.9 Y80.69 Z396 E800 ; Set steps per mm
M566 X900 Y900 Z12 E200 ; Set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min) (buvo e120)
M203 X40000 Y40000 Z1000 E1200 ; Set maximum speeds (mm/min)
M201 X3000 Y1500 Z20 E250 ; Set accelerations (mm/s^2)M906 X1000 Y1500 Z1000 E1200 I30 ; Set motor currents (mA) and motor idle factor in per cent
M84 S30 ; Set idle timeout -
If your extruder is direct drive (i.e. no significant length of Bowden tube between the extruder drive and the nozzle), then pressure advance of 0.7 is much too high. Try 0.05.
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Tried 0.5 and 0.7 made it better. I found my problem. Skipping gear on e3d.
Don't know why its happening so will contact their support -
What should i put in starting Gcode for mech bed compensation?
is it only the M28 command or should i erase previous probing?
Here is what i have at the moment (mainly modified from prusa mk2
M83 ; extruder relative mode
M104 S[first_layer_temperature] ; set extruder temp
M140 S[first_layer_bed_temperature] ; set bed temp
M190 S[first_layer_bed_temperature] ; wait for bed temp
M109 S[first_layer_temperature] ; wait for extruder temp
G28 ; home all without mesh bed level
G32 ; mesh bed leveling
G1 Y20 X10 Z0.30 F7000.0 ; go outside printing area
G1 E10 F100
G1 X100.0 E9.0 F1000 ; intro line
G1 X180.0 E12.5 F1000 ; intro lineSo instead of 5 point probing G32 i have, should i change to:
G29 S0 (or S1 if i want to use previous data from last measurement)? -
So my titan aero is clicking and e3d sent a new motor only larger which does not fit my design. Are you David use titan aero and if so any issues ? I found this motor and i dont know if the data is correct and if it would work: https://www.omc-stepperonline.com/hybrid-stepper-motor/nema-17-bipolar-18deg-18ncm-255ozin-07a-29v-42x42x25mm-4-wires-17hs10-0704s.html
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I don't use a Titan Aero, I use a regular Titan. The motor I use is this https://www.omc-stepperonline.com/hybrid-stepper-motor/nema-17-bipolar-18deg-22ncm-31ozin-133a-28v-42x42x34mm-4-wires-17hs13-1334s.html.
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Changed my bed for precision plate now battling IR probe as endstop. I cant seem to grasp the concept here. I lover the nozzle to where it touches the piece of paper then G92 Z0 and when i home it does not go back to that height. Tried G31 P500 X5 Y14.5 Z-5.5 ; with no success.
Whats the proper procedure setting Z probe height?
I am looking at these :
https://duet3d.com/wiki/Setting_up_automatic_probing_of_the_print_bed
https://duet3d.com/wiki/Using_mesh_bed_compensation -
The G31 Z parameter should be positive for sensors that trigger before the nozzle touches the bed. For the IR sensor is should be no higher than about 3mm.
If you are restarting the Duet between attempts, also check that you don't also have a G31 command in config-override.g.
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I dont have that file. So G31 is the offset of the Z probe depending how its mounted?
So then i would go:
M208 S1 Z-3
Lower the nozzle to where it touches say piece of paper.
G92 Z0 to store that
But where is that offset, do i need to read it from web interface and then enter it to config.g's G31? Is there a step by step somewhere? -
I suggest you read the commissioning instructions in the fitting instructions page, at https://miscsolutions.wordpress.com/mini-height-sensor-board/.
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Thank you. I think i have the idea now. Here is the map:
Is this any good or my bed is bad?
I have bought new 8mm precision plate but it does not look that precise.
Before i had Chaina heatbed out of 3mm aluminium and got this:
Can you help interpret the results?
P.S. I have 5V LED bar. Draws little over 1 A
Can i connect it to unused expansion header pins and control it with a macro? Cant seem to find header ratings -
Your first height map looks OK, but the second (mostly red one) looks poor.
If you have a spare controlled fan output on the Duet, you can connect your lighting between +5V on the expansion header and FAN- on your chosen controlled fan output. The control it using M106. Or, if uou are not using the E1 heater output, you can connect the lighting between +5V on the expansion header and E1- on the E1 heater terminal block. Caution! Some versions of the Duet PCB have the E1- and VIN legends for the terminal block the wrong way round. E1- is the end farthest from the corner of the board.
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Great. Thanks.
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Agniusm,
I'm about to start my adventure to replace the cr-10 board with the DuetWiFi..
The steppermotor connectors are slightly different, but it's possible to plug it in…Question:
Are the steppermotor connectors of the CR-10 pin-compatible with the connectors of the Duet board?
Can I plug them in the Duet board or do I have to rewire ??
If so, which way should the connector be orientated? -
I think you will need to rewire. I swapped my cables and built them from scratch so i don't really know.
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I think you will need to rewire. I swapped my cables and built them from scratch so i don't really know.
Not wat I was hoping for, but thanks for letting me know..
I'll go and hunt down the wiring of the cr-10 connectors. -
You can test whether the connectors need to be rewired in either of two ways:
1. Use a multimeter to measure the resistance between pins. If the wiring is correct for the Duet, you should get a few ohms resistance between pins 1 and 2, and a few ohms between pins 3 and 4. There should be no continuity between 1 or 2 and 3 or 4.
2. If you don't have a multimeter, then you can try shorting pins together to see if it makes the motor harder to turn. If it is wired correctly, then if you short pins 1 and 2 together, or pins 3 and 4 together, it will be harder to spin the spindle with your fingers.
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I think you will need to rewire. I swapped my cables and built them from scratch so i don't really know.
Not wat I was hoping for, but thanks for letting me know..
I'll go and hunt down the wiring of the cr-10 connectors.Rewiring is basically swapping pins. There is not much to it. Like DC42 said or you can simply plug generic LED and spin the motor by hand. If it lights up, you got a pair.
On cr10 i think pairs are layed out as follows on motor connector: 1 and 4 one pair, 3 and 6 the other one. On duet you have 1b1a and 2a2b.
Now just connect you wires so 1 goes to 1a 4 to 1b 3 to 2a 6 to 2b and if its reversed, reverse it back in firmware. It is different for y axis only. -
The AJAX error still does my head in. I pulled out old router to test, where all AP's are stored so i could edit the list? I have ordered new AP so i can dedicate it to the printer
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The latest (1.20) version of DWC gives a more precise error message instead of "AJAX error".
