Help with seam spots tuning

alexus

@droftarts
reasonably yes
file is 23.5mm measured size 23.1 - 23.4mm possibly due to warping also caliper tolerance

droftarts

@alexus What about filament width? While it's extruding the correct distance, if the filament width isn't set correctly, it can easily over extrude. Perhaps try one of the thin wall tests to see how much filament is extruding.

Ian

alexus

@droftarts
filament is 1.6mm (advertised as 1.75mm)
how do i do thin wall test?

droftarts

@alexus I’ve recently used this one: https://guides.bear-lab.com/Guide/Extrusion+multiplier+and+filament+diameter/8?lang=en

Ian

alexus

@droftarts
need to get micrometer and try it

droftarts

@alexus Digital calipers are fine.

Ian

alexus

@droftarts
in thta case i can use my cheap china caliper lol i dont think its well relibale

alexus

@alexus
so did thin wall test and looks like my walls are 0.4mm on 0.4mm nozle seams good to me
though i switched to prusa slicer for that test and i printed 2 models
one (other design) got printed defets free , perfect part , while same part foprm cura never been perfect... then i printed my part with 2 prone towers and while it printed significantly better it still showed similar artifact perhaps tuning prisa slicer can make it better... failr note i did change material and i put material in drying/preheat chamber

MJLew

You might be interested in a method that I developed to make seams just about invisible. I have documented it in a feature request for PrusaSlicer here: scarf seam

The method requires the outside perimeter to be printed first. The layer starts at zero layer height (i.e. the nozzle is at the same z-height as it was for the previous layer), then tapers upwards to the full layer height over some arbitrary distance, and then at the end of the layer there is a complementary taper over the first few points before the nozzle moves away to complete the layer in the normal manner. The result is analogous to a woodworker's scarf joint and so I'm calling it a scarf seam.

The results are quite impressive, as you can see at the linked page, and with my hand-written gcode it is easy to achieve. The whole process can be done by a slicer but, in my opinion, the tapers should be processed by the firmware. I asked about adding moves that taper in Z for ReRap firmware some time ago, but I'm not sure that I had this particular use-case worked out at the time. https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/32474/tapering-extrusions I guess it might be worth re-visiting that request.

alexus

@MJLew
i can try ur gcode just to see how it print , but as i see features are not added any wehere so far?
also what i noticed with my models, cylindrical is ok when i used prusa slicer but 2 tower with hole in it still seams terrible