@engikeneer
@jay_s_uk

Apologies for the wild goose chase. I think my initial problem has been resolved.

(1) So I am just going to say I was looking at the wrong spot for the e0/e1 LEDs. I was looking close to the connector (similar to the LED for the heater bed) but I now see the LEDs are along the edge of the board. As such, I can confirm that when Heater 1 is active, the LED was working (even when setting the active temp to 35)
(2) As for the voltage issue...initially I was probing the the top of the screw terminals and seeing there was no voltage and no temp increase with the wires attached. I then removed the wires thinking it was some other issue but never replaced them after updating the firmware and such. In hindsight, the top of the screw probably wasn't making any electrical connection when loose...so after I tighten the screws down, I am indeed reading a voltage of ~12V. So that is definitely my bad.

Calling this resolved though I will need to go through the heater tuning step as suggested by @jay_s_uk

Thanks again all,
K

@phaedrux
Mwahahahah! Success.

Thank you so much. (Funny enough I was thinking the same thing...but just assumed that the zip file has everything and should be doing a fresh install right?!?!)

Anyway for future reference:

• I downloaded the entire 3.0 zip file and uploaded via the DWC "Upload System Files"
• I said "Yes" to installing the new firmware
• After the install, the DWC was saying version 2.0.4 for some reason but the firmware on the board does not report 3.0 which was as expected
• Then I uploaded the entire 3.4.1 zip file using the same method as before and now both the DWC and RRF are both on 3.4.1

WOOHOO!!!

I was curious what missing file(s) would be the cause of this issue but causing this resolved for now.

Thank you all,
K

@Phaedrux
So...during my troubleshooting mid 2022, I must have yanked the USB cable causing the USB connector on the board to rip off the board (taking many of the pads with it).

I found this other thread and was able to successfully solder on a USB cable to the ends of the resistors. (At least I was able to communicate with it in the past)

I will take a look to make sure there are no electrical issues with the solder joints (e.g. the exposed wires are touching something else...the flux from the poor solder job ate through something?!!). The cable itself seems fine (at least based on a simple continuity test on the four wires to the USB connector).

So far, I can get a resistor measurement across the "green" resistor of ~27 OHMs, but I can't seem to get a reading across the "red" or "white" resistors... That can't be good...

@dc42
Interesting. Thanks for the information.

• "Excessive 5V power" - Would I need to get one of those USB power meters to verify this? (I don't have a working bench top power supply unfortunately...) - I measured across PIN1 and PIN 2 on the expansion connector and it was reading 4.76V...I am guessing this is not good either.

• "Does [the main processor chip] get hot?" - Not that I can tell. Left it plugged in to the USB port for 10 mins and I feel like I can leave my finger on the chip indefinitely.

• "3.3V supply to it is low" - I measured across the 3.3 and GND on the endstop connectors and they seem to be measuring 3.3V - 3.31 V so I am guessing it is not this either.

So if there is something wrong with my 5V USB connection...I assume if I used Vin to power the board + connect this board to my laptop to avoid ground loops, that should help right? Or not? (I mean it didn't work for me originally and that is why I took the board out of the 3D printer completely...but maybe?!?)

Thanks again for the support.

@Phaedrux

Thanks for the link. I have tried to go through the troubleshooting steps in both the links.

To be clear:

• Duet Won't Respond?
  • I believe I have the correct LEDs on (DIAG, USB, 5V and 3.3V)
  • The device sort of shows up
    • It shows up not under COM (which happened with other Duet that I have) but under USB with ERROR code 43
    • I have attempted the other steps mentioned in other locations regarding using different ports and and restarting the machine with no success
  • Since it doesn't show up, I have tried erasing the firmware multiple times but never got it to show up under COM (only under USB with Error code 43)
  • That brings me to the last step. I am guessing this is no longer under warranty and so...Does this mean then that there is no way I can fix this board? Is it the USB controller that is bad? Is it the main atmel chip that is bad? Is there something I can load onto the SD card to try and get the board back in a good state? Anything else I can do to try and troubleshoot? If I somehow had resources to replace chips...which chip would be suspect? I am guessing most of the board is still functional so I would feel awful trashing the board
• Getting connected to your Duet
  • I have downloaded the drivers and I was able to follow the process with another board. Unfortunately I am not able to install the driver. It seems that is only an option when the board shows up under COM. When it shows up under USB with error code 43, I can try to "update the driver" but I can't pick the correct driver. Windows just thinks no driver needs to be updated.

Hi All,

ISSUE: Seems like I may have "bricked" my Duet 2 WiFi as I can't communicate with it anymore and not sure how to proceed.

BACKGROUND:

• Earlier this year, the board seemed fine. I was able to communicate via USB and WiFi (after updating the firmware) See Previous Post
• Finally found some time to really test it now that I have a makeshift enclosure around it.
• Found that I couldn't connect to it and wasn't showing up via USB
• (maybe a mistake) - Tried erasing firmware so that I can try again...

CURRENT STATUS:

• Connecting via USB to my MAC - nothing happens. (In the past this has worked and I was able to communicate with it via SerialTools)
• Took the board out of the 3d printer (completely disconnecting everything) and connected to my Windows PC
  • Diag light shows up (between USB and SD card)
  • USB light? shows up (between reset and USB)
  • 5V and 3.3V shows up
• Windows message pops up about an unrecognized device and in the device manager, it shows up with a yellow triangle and the details show an Code 43 error
• I can't seem to "install driver" for it
• I have tried different ports on the PC + unplugging and replugging - same issue
• I have tried restarting the PC - same issue
• Tried with and without the SD card - same issue
• (I know I am supposed to try a different USB cable...unfortunately this board has a USB cable soldered on )

Other than snipping the USB cable and trying a different one, is there anything else I can do to diagnose/fix this issue? Or is this pretty much bricked and I need to just move on (if so, any ideas of how this board can be repurposed)?

Thanks!

P.S.
Fortunately, it seems the maker I got this used 3D printer from had a second Duet WiFi and I was mostly able to get it up. (Just waiting for the Duet Web Control to show up...)

@engikeneer
@jay_s_uk

Apologies for the wild goose chase. I think my initial problem has been resolved.

(1) So I am just going to say I was looking at the wrong spot for the e0/e1 LEDs. I was looking close to the connector (similar to the LED for the heater bed) but I now see the LEDs are along the edge of the board. As such, I can confirm that when Heater 1 is active, the LED was working (even when setting the active temp to 35)
(2) As for the voltage issue...initially I was probing the the top of the screw terminals and seeing there was no voltage and no temp increase with the wires attached. I then removed the wires thinking it was some other issue but never replaced them after updating the firmware and such. In hindsight, the top of the screw probably wasn't making any electrical connection when loose...so after I tighten the screws down, I am indeed reading a voltage of ~12V. So that is definitely my bad.

Calling this resolved though I will need to go through the heater tuning step as suggested by @jay_s_uk

Thanks again all,
K

@jay_s_uk

Thanks again for the reply. I was just able to resolve the firmware issue mentioned in my original post.

So now DWC and RRF are both on 3.4.1 but looks like I am still seeing the same issue.

So I went through the same commissioning step of setting the active temp for Heater 1 to 35, but I still see no LED light up for either e0 or e1 and I don't see any voltage across either pins.

Funny enough though, I am getting the heating-too-slowly-fault which I guess is a step in the right direction.

Any other suggestions? Is there a command that I can run to directly switch on the voltage to the e0 or e1?

Thanks,
K

@phaedrux
Mwahahahah! Success.

Thank you so much. (Funny enough I was thinking the same thing...but just assumed that the zip file has everything and should be doing a fresh install right?!?!)

Anyway for future reference:

• I downloaded the entire 3.0 zip file and uploaded via the DWC "Upload System Files"
• I said "Yes" to installing the new firmware
• After the install, the DWC was saying version 2.0.4 for some reason but the firmware on the board does not report 3.0 which was as expected
• Then I uploaded the entire 3.4.1 zip file using the same method as before and now both the DWC and RRF are both on 3.4.1

WOOHOO!!!

I was curious what missing file(s) would be the cause of this issue but causing this resolved for now.

Thank you all,
K

@jay_s_uk
Ah...I see. Okay. Thanks for the information. (I didn't know they need to be in sync.) I guess I have to go fix my previous issue then.

Will report back once I do so.

Hi All,

Making some progress since my first post (though unresolved...I decided to move forward to proceed with testing the rest of the system).

Thus far, it seems I got most of the rest of the system working...except for some reason, I see no voltage across the e0/e1 heater screw terminals and not sure how to further troubleshoot. (I see some old posts that are somewhat related...but they have not helped...)

STATUS: Duet 2 V1.04 powered on, running RepRap Firmware 3.1.0 and connected via DWC 3.4.1. Going through the recommended commissioning steps. Activating the Tool 0 Heater 1 and setting the active temperature to 35.

ISSUE: The hot end temperature does not go up.

TROUBLESHOOTING:

• Verified the sensor is working (touching the hotend with my hand results in an increase in temperature)
• Verified the heater is working (measured resistance of ~6ohms)
• Verified that powering the heater with 12 V results in the sensor rapidly increasing in temperature.
• Measured the voltage across e0 and e1 screw terminals and see no voltage though I do see a voltage of ~12 volts across the power to the Duet and ~12volts across the heat bed terminals when I set the heatbed to active via DWC.
• NOTE: Setting the Heater 1 to active funny enough doesn't give me that heating-too-slowly-fault that I get when doing the same to heatbed even though the temp isn't rising...that's odd right?
• NOTE: Also I read that there is suppose to be an LED that turns on when the heater is on...and I don't see an LED...though I do see one when I active the heatbed

REQUEST: Any tips on where in the software files I should be looking to troubleshoot this issue? Or anything on the board I can probe to see if there is indeed something wrong with the board?

Thanks in advance,
K

P.S. I am getting a bunch of server errors when trying to upload the config.g file and a screenshot so I copied a snippet of the config.g below:

; Heaters
M308 S0 P"bedtemp" Y"thermistor" T100000 B4138 ; configure sensor 0 as thermistor on pin bedtemp
M950 H0 C"bedheat" T0                          ; create bed heater output on bedheat and map it to sensor 0
M307 H0 B1 S1.00                               ; enable bang-bang mode for the bed heater and set PWM limit
M140 H0                                        ; map heated bed to heater 0
M143 H0 S120                                   ; set temperature limit for heater 0 to 120C
M308 S1 P"e0temp" Y"thermistor" T100000 B4138  ; configure sensor 1 as thermistor on pin e0temp
M950 H1 C"e1heat" T1                           ; create nozzle heater output on e0heat and map it to sensor 1
M307 H1 B0 S1.00                               ; disable bang-bang mode for heater  and set PWM limit
M143 H1 S280                                   ; set temperature limit for heater 1 to 280C

@phaedrux
Thanks for the suggestion. I didn't see any error messages...

I guess I will have to try #2. Looks like it is easier in Windows...guess I need to get my old PC back up and running as well

@fcwilt
Thanks for the reply. I believe I did see the message and I believe I have clicked yes. I can try again later.

And yes I have run that command before as part of the "Fallback procedure #1" but it doesn't change the reported firmware.